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Leftovers from previous brew.

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by jtdolla911, Mar 7, 2013.

  1. I have the following items leftover from my last batch. Do you know of a recipe/recipes that would use all or most of these.

    As a follow up, how long should everything last. I put everything in ziploc bags, with hops in the fridge, and grains and candi sugar out on the counter. I've only brewed three times, so if I fucked up and the ingredients are dead, don't be shy and let me know. And, I know people will ask, there are no dates on the hop packages or malt bags. The LHBS repackaged everything with their own labels.

    10 oz. Belgian aromatic
    12 oz. Carapils
    12 oz. Crystal 20L

    1/2 oz. UK Challenger
    1/2 oz. Czech Saaz (might use this as a finishing hop in a bavarian hefe, recipe doesn't call for it, but it won't hurt the recipe and won't affect expected IBU's too greatly)

    1/2 lb light belgian candi sugar
    1/2 oz. sweet orange peel
    1 oz bitter orange peel (i'm an idiot and didnt read label when I bought this, so ran out to get the sweet)

    Lots of whirlfloc (one per 5 gal, how long is shelf life?)

    An English bitter could use the crystal and uk chall, is there a bitter recipe that includes carapils?

    Any help is greatly appreciated! These ingredients came from a triple, and I am an extract (dry preferred) brewer for now.
  2. AlCaponeJunior

    AlCaponeJunior Champion (780) Texas May 21, 2010

    If the ingredients are all fresh, there's no reason you can't use them again. Keep the hops wrapped tightly to squeeze out as much air as possible and store them in the freezer. Keep any grains cool and dry. Candi sugar and sweet orange peel keep dry and room temp.

    Carapils and 20L are lighter than what I would think of with an ESB, but the hops would go good, and there's no reason why you can't use these ingredients in future beers.
    jtdolla911 likes this.
  3. Freezer for the hops? Thanks for the heads up, I'll move them right now.
    inchrisin likes this.
  4. AlCaponeJunior

    AlCaponeJunior Champion (780) Texas May 21, 2010

    What you have might make a good "petite saison." I just made one and love it! What is your ambient fermentation temperature? Put that aromatic in with some of either the carapils <or> the 20L and some extract/base malt and ferment in the 60's with WY3711 with a starter. Add the hops you have late (and practically anything else hops wise) to a reasonable hops schedule and you'll probably wind up with a delicious beer.
  5. scurvy311

    scurvy311 Savant (355) Louisiana Dec 3, 2005

    What's your batch size?

    I have done 2 "sweep the floor" beers using many random amounts of large and small non-related ingredients from the freezer. You'de be surprised how flavorful and forgiving a cleanly fermented properly carbed beer can be.

    Mash all your grains with enough base malt or ME of your choosing to make a 1.040-1.050ish wort, hop with what you want at 60min and late hop with what you have. Pick a yeast or use 1056 or use 1968. The last step is to throw the petrified citrus in the trash, but that's more "inner monologue" than sound advice on how to use it.
    jtdolla911 likes this.
  6. This sounds like a really good idea. Could I add some of either the sweet or bitter orange peel with this? Ambient fermentation is in the 60's. I don't use a temp control system yet, but keep my condo at 66.
  7. 5 gallons, but I only have a 4 gallon brewpot, so I boil 2.5 gallons of wort and top off with cold water.
  8. AlCaponeJunior

    AlCaponeJunior Champion (780) Texas May 21, 2010

    If your ambient air temperature is 66 you will make an excellent beer with this plan. Adding the orange peel would be wonderful for this beer.

    My petite saison was fermented at 64-66 with 3711 and came out great (and it was a SMaSH).
    jtdolla911 likes this.
  9. scurvy311

    scurvy311 Savant (355) Louisiana Dec 3, 2005

    I should have asked this the first time, but extract or allgrain?
  10. Extract with steeped grains, I'm not ready to move to all grain yet. Studying up on it, but I need to do some more research and get proper equipment.
  11. AlCaponeJunior

    AlCaponeJunior Champion (780) Texas May 21, 2010

    with a four gallon brewpot you could probably boil up to 3.2 gallons and add a minimal amount of water. You might need to pay a little more attention to the boil to avoid boil-overs, but it's worth the extra effort. Consider upping your boil volume and adding less top off water.

    Also consider that splitting your boil between two pots might allow you to boil more of your wort volume than a single pot method could do. At one time I was fighting a small electric stove and too-small boil pots, but I got by, so can you. You will soon move up to 5 full gallons of boil anyway, that's how it goes once you start making good beer (you just gotta move up).

    With a reasonable attempt at a starter, you could make a really good beer with 3711 and 66F ambient air temperatures. Any reasonable recipe should work.
  12. scurvy311

    scurvy311 Savant (355) Louisiana Dec 3, 2005

    If you are doing extract, you could look into the "Texas 2 step" method/late extract addition. It would allow you to do closer to a full wort boil without the shortcomings of concentrated wort boil.
  13. AlCaponeJunior

    AlCaponeJunior Champion (780) Texas May 21, 2010

    I hate to derail, but we know that would be a lie so... :rolleyes:

    What would you guys think of a beer with just base malt (maybe maris otter?), 3711, 64-66F temps, and two packs of sweet orange? What else might make a good petite saison?
  14. scurvy311

    scurvy311 Savant (355) Louisiana Dec 3, 2005

    I hear you. If you are saving up for it, your beer would be better served first with a temp controlled fermentation chamber, next studying up on yeast starters unless you are using dry yeast. All grain is a different process to get wort. Assuming you are starting with fresh ingredients, temp controlled fermentation and/or adequate amounts of healthy impact the beer much more than all grain.
    jtdolla911 likes this.
  15. Yeast starters looks pretty involved, i've been reading up on it as much as I can. As far as temp control, what product do you recommend? Would a heating pad do the trick?
  16. scurvy311

    scurvy311 Savant (355) Louisiana Dec 3, 2005

    If you have a spot that is a steady temp less than your target temp, a brew belt-type heater would work. If ambient gets up more than the temp you would like to hold it at, a "swamp cooler" work, although requires some attention. I picked up a free fridge from the rest home down the street. They have to change out fridges every 10 years. I just had to ask, wait, then pick it up. With a fridge you need some sort of controller. But honestly, if you have a spot where you can keep the ambient temp where you want it consistent, you need none of the above equipment.

    Yeast starters can get equipment intense, just like brewing, but it doesn't have to. All you need is a sanitary environment for the yeast to "prepare themselves" to ferment. You can start simple then add pieces.
    jtdolla911 likes this.
  17. scurvy311

    scurvy311 Savant (355) Louisiana Dec 3, 2005

    P.S. Throw away the petrified citrus. Use fresh. It's worth the effort. Doc Scott has some good info on using fresh citrus in The Brewing Network - The Jamil Show podcast called "Witbier" on iTunes. You could find more info online or on BA, but I'm an auditory learner.
    jtdolla911 and kjyost like this.
  18. inchrisin

    inchrisin Savant (425) Indiana Sep 25, 2008

    Did you write the recipes down, or wish you had?
  19. scurvy311

    scurvy311 Savant (355) Louisiana Dec 3, 2005

    The first one...no. I thought it was part of the theme to not catalog it. I figured I'd never have that combo of random ounces again. I did the first with pils to 1.040ish. The second one I wanted to catalog it because I literally had 15-20 partial bags of grains, Belgian aromatic to special B to honey malt. I used Marie otter as base malt and poured the first 2 bags into the mash water before I realized I didn't weigh them. So in they all went. I bittered with magnum and don't remember what I late hopped with.

    Both were surprisingly uninteresting given the cluster hump of malt.
  20. inchrisin

    inchrisin Savant (425) Indiana Sep 25, 2008


    Crazy. Pilsners are usually 2 or 3 malts and process driven, rather than ingredient driven. How did that one go over?
  21. scurvy311

    scurvy311 Savant (355) Louisiana Dec 3, 2005

    It was good...drinkable...and I really don't remember much else. I'm pretty sure I used 1056 for the first one and 1968 for the second one. Those were the yeasts I was hung up on during those periods. I really wasn't where I am now palate-wise either. If I tasted them now, they could be great or gross. Who knows?
    inchrisin likes this.
  22. AlCaponeJunior

    AlCaponeJunior Champion (780) Texas May 21, 2010

    My freezer/Johnson controller is the best beer investment I've ever made. Texas is warm and I would have little chance of making good beer trying to ferment in a closet. Keeping the AC down low enough to have my beer fermenting in the 60's would be prohibitively expensive, and would quickly outpace the costs of the freezer and controller by far. Some people might have to deal with heating their beer to keep the cold away, but not me lol.

    Starters are actually pretty easy. You can get a stir plate and a big flask (at least 2L, but bigger is fine) if you want to, and these work great. Or I sometimes make a starter in a growler too. That's a little more work but the yeast still multiply and the beer still ferments just fine. Essentially I mix 100g of extract per 1L H2O, boil, cool, sanitize the container (growler or flask) add yeast, then cover with tinfoil. Shake regularly or use the stir plate. Not that hard, and well worth the effort.
  23. Two quick last questions.
    1. Does it matter what kind of extract I use for the starter, or does it have to match the recipe of the current brew?
    2. I've read so far that you can prepare a starter anywhere from 24hrs to a week before a brew, as long as it is refrigerated, or cold crashed, overnight. Is this correct?
  24. scurvy311

    scurvy311 Savant (355) Louisiana Dec 3, 2005

    1. Not really. If you are decanting there should be very little wort left to pour into the fermenter. Although I've never tasted it, the "finished" starter beer, I've heard, is not so tasty.
    2. Starter starting depends on several factors (ain't that just like Homebrewing in general) like size, yeast health, wort gravity, floculation, process like stir plate, how long to chill/floc/decant. I normally start starters the morning before. I give it 12-24 hours to ferment. A highly flocing yeast like 1968 can be put in the fridge 3-6 hours before pitching. Other yeast will need more time. YMMV. If you are unsure, the extra hours or day flocking in the fridge won't hurt anything. I think the trick is to get settled into to a process and build experiences that allows you to start, ferm, crash, and pitch with as little wait time as possible. It's not mandatory to be perfect.
    jtdolla911 likes this.
  25. AlCaponeJunior

    AlCaponeJunior Champion (780) Texas May 21, 2010

    Basically "what scurvy311 said." I make the starters anywhere from 24-72 hours in advance. For an average mildly alcoholic beer (up to 5-6%) I just make it the day before. When I made my PtE clone, I made it three days in advance, grew it for two, flocced it in the fridge overnight, then decanted. I made a bigger starter for that one (2L). For a regular beer I usually make about 1.5L and decant as much as possible.

    I would just use light DME in your starters for whatever beer you're making. Can't go wrong with standard light or extra light DME. I currently use light because that's what the LHBS had in stock last time I was shopping for extract.
    jtdolla911 likes this.
  26. Thanks again for the help. With each new step in the homebrew process it seems very intimidating at first, and it helps to have some experiential anecdotes to work on. I think I'm going to buy a stir plate and flask, as I plan to brew often and eventually will move to all grain.

    I'll look up some videos to watch on the process of yeast starting. I'll figure out the best way to decant and probably do a starter for my next batch.

    My next two will be the petite saison mentioned above and a bavarian hefe. My most consistent issue has been clarity, but that will come as I refine my techniques.

    Thanks for listening and talking me through everything, I really appreciate it!

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