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Looking for a simple, all extract (no grain), no secondary fermentation, no dry hop IPA recipe

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by PlinyBubbles, Mar 4, 2012.

  1. I'm brewing my first batch and want a good IPA recipe that keeps things as simple as possible. I'm most interested in something West Coast style, ie. Green Flash West Coast, Sculpin, etc.
     
  2. Homebrew42

    Homebrew42 Savant (425) New York Dec 20, 2006

    For 5 gallons:

    7 lbs Muntons extra light DME
    1 oz Warrior or Magnum hops (60 min)
    2 oz Amarillo hops (10 min)
    2 oz Amarillo hops (0 min)
    Safale US-05
     
    Genuine likes this.
  3. kscaldef

    kscaldef Advocate (700) Oregon Jun 11, 2010

    I appreciate wanting to keep it simple, but IMO dry-hopping really makes an IPA, particularly if you want it more in the west coast style.
     
    jmich24 likes this.
  4. Can I dry hop without doing a secondary fermentation?
     
  5. Homebrew42

    Homebrew42 Savant (425) New York Dec 20, 2006

    Yes, you can dry hop in the primary after fermentation dies down. Lots of people do it this way with good results. That said, you can brew a perfectly good IPA without dry hopping, despite what some people might tell you.
     
    Beejay likes this.
  6. tngolfer

    tngolfer Aficionado (200) Tennessee Feb 16, 2012

  7. Translation: Perfectly good = not quite as good/aromatic as the same beer with dryhopping...IMHO...put me down as "some people")
     
  8. Homebrew42

    Homebrew42 Savant (425) New York Dec 20, 2006


    You can brew a highly aromatic IPA without dry hopping. It's a popular, but not a required element of the style.
     
  9. I suppose it's possible, but you would be using even more hops late than you would dryhopping to achieve a similar result.
     
  10. I personally dry hop my IPAs but you can certainly make a ‘good’ IPA by just adding hops at the end of boil for aroma.

    Dry hopping and end of boil hopping both add hop aroma but what they are different aroma qualities. Neither method is inherently ‘better’.

    You can also follow the ‘belt and suspenders’ approach and add aroma hops at both additions: end of boil and dry hopping. This is the approach that I take.

    For the ‘interested reader’:

    “Many brewers turn to dry hopping in an effort to get more hop flavor and aroma, but dry hopping results in a completely different hop character, which maybe out of place in certain styles.

    While dry hopping is a great technique, it is often characterized as more resiny and grassy, while boiled hops are often characterized as more floral and spicy. Ray Daniels, in Designing Great Beers, says, "Late-hopped additions have been characterized as more floral, fragrant, and less grassy than dry-hopped additions."

    http://www.mrmalty.com/late_hopping.php

    Cheers!
     
  11. PDXHops

    PDXHops Savant (475) South Carolina Nov 19, 2008

    This sounds so simple (not to mention delicious) that I'm half tempted to start brewing again.
     
  12. Despite the name, Green Flash West Coast IPA is nearly not as close to the West Coast style IMO as Sculpin or Green Flash Imperial IPA.

    I second dryhopping if you want a truly fantastic IPA (...plus either brewing via all grain or partial mash with a healthy yeast starter, but that's a whole other story). In my experience, late hop additions in general, especially flameout and dryhop, are key to an IPA with a great nose. When done properly, at the right temperatures, with the right hops, in the right amounts, with a good recipe, there's no reason why you should not have an aroma as great as Lagunitas Sucks or Pliny the Elder. Dryhopping is not difficult at all and can be done in the primary if that is your only option. Just toss in 0.5 to 0.6 ounces of pellet hops per gallon of beer after about 2-3 weeks of fermentation/post-ferm cleanup. The trick is to set the carboy at counter height so you can easily siphon off the beer without moving it and stirring up the suspended yeast.

    Homebrew42's basic recipe is a good start. Though you can certainly use different hops and add a dryhop as well. Good luck!
     
  13. HB42 did exactly as the OP requested. All this additional talk involving dry hopping, while good information for some, is not doing the OP any good. When he (or she, shouldn't assume) wants to learn about dry hopping, he or she will probably ask.
     
  14. OP asked: "Can I dry hop without doing a secondary fermentation?"

    So obviously he is intrigued about dryhopping. Some people like to over-complicate things and dryhopping is certainly nothing to be intimidated by. And while other things may help your beer, like using a healthy yeast starter instead of two packets of dry yeast... these steps may be a tad more involved for a new brewer. I can understand that. ~ Are we done mocking now?
     
  15. Pahn

    Pahn Advocate (695) New York Dec 2, 2009

    dry hop talk is definitely doing OP good. i agree with everyone suggesting he throw in some hops in primary.

    while HB42 is obviously right that you can make great, aromatic IPAs without dry hopping, there's almost no quicker way to better aroma (and therefore taste) for novice brewers like the OP (and myself).

    i would go so far as to say dry hopping is absolutely essential if you want the good aspects of "west coast IPAs", until your overall brewing technique is good enough to maximize what you get out of your ingredients.
     
  16. Timmush

    Timmush Savant (330) New Jersey Jan 5, 2008

    What does everyone suggest would be a good hop addition to this extract IPA for Dry hopping.
     
  17. jmich24

    jmich24 Savant (440) Michigan Jan 28, 2010

    IMO would suggest 1-3 oz of dry hops. I have read spacing out the dry hops can be benifical. My last two dry hops were done with half (.75 ounce) for 7 days in the primary towards the very end of the fermentation and half (.75 ounce) directly in the keg.

    Good luck!
     
  18. cracker

    cracker Savant (395) Pennsylvania May 2, 2004

    What are your choices? You can't go wrong with a one or more of the following hops IMO: amarillo, cascade, centennial, citra, nugget, simcoe...
     
  19. Timmush

    Timmush Savant (330) New Jersey Jan 5, 2008

    With what hops for the first mentioned recipe?
     
  20. mnstorm99

    mnstorm99 Advocate (535) Minnesota May 11, 2007

    Quantity? Or, variety? Go with the Amarillo since it is the base of this beer. I think 2 oz. of amarillo is enough, but you can use more if you want.
     
  21. Homebrew42

    Homebrew42 Savant (425) New York Dec 20, 2006

    Amarillo, cascade, columbus, centennial, nugget, citra, magnum, crystal, etc, etc...whatever really.
     
  22. jmich24

    jmich24 Savant (440) Michigan Jan 28, 2010

    You can use any hop as homebrew suggests, but I would stick with Amarillo. That way you can get a great if you like that specific hop.
    I just brewed an all Galaxy yesterday bittered with magnum and I look forward to more single hop beers to learn more about the specific hop used.

    Also I try to take good notes on recipes and brewing procedures in an attempt to learn and replicate what worked well.

    Good luck
     
  23. rmalinowski4

    rmalinowski4 Savant (350) Illinois Oct 22, 2010

    If you want a west coast style, you should add a sugar to help dry it out some. Personally, I like using honey for this. Just add 8oz of good honey at flame out and it will help take the FG down a few points.
     
  24. Homebrew42

    Homebrew42 Savant (425) New York Dec 20, 2006

    This is a common misconception, simply adding sugar to an existing recipe isn't going to lower the final gravity and dry out the beer, the way you dry out a beer with sugar is by replacing the malt with it, not supplimenting the malt with it. In other words a 1.060 beer that's all malt is going to have a higher final gravity and will be fuller bodied than a 1.060 beer that's 5% or 10% sugar, but if you simply take a 1.060 beer and add sugar to it you're going to end up with either the same FG, or possibly even a higher FG than you would have before.
     
    aficionado likes this.
  25. I see what you are saying, but you really should be comparing it (a 1.060 beer + sugar) to say an all malt 1.063 beer because the extra sugar will add gravity as well and because it is essentially 100% fermentable will result in proportionally more alcohol as well as less mouth feel.
     
  26. Homebrew42

    Homebrew42 Savant (425) New York Dec 20, 2006


    Eh, not really. The statement that's often made is "add sugar to that recipe in order to dry it out", this is incorrect, a correct statement would be "replace 5-10% of malt gravity in that recipe with sugar in order to dry it out". Simply dumping sugar into an existing wort does not dry it out, what dries a beer out it is replacing part of the partially fermentable malt gravity with fully fermentable sugar gravity.
     
  27. I think when most people say "add some sugar to dry it out" they realize that the sugar will add gravity and also that they may have to adjust other things as well such as hopping and pitching for significant changes. Let's face it...your calculator is going to tell you that anyway if you are paying attention.
     
  28. Homebrew42

    Homebrew42 Savant (425) New York Dec 20, 2006

    There are many people who think that you can dry out a beer by simply adding sugar to an existing recipe, I see people recommending this all the time.
     
  29. Pahn

    Pahn Advocate (695) New York Dec 2, 2009

    what do you think the better recommendation is? "mash lower"? "replace some of the base malt with corn sugar"? what decides the question?

    edit: or pitching rates / water quality / etc etc. i don't know what the best thing to focus on is, obviously, but "mash lower" was my guess.
     
  30. Homebrew42

    Homebrew42 Savant (425) New York Dec 20, 2006

    If you want to take an existing recipe and simply lower the final gravity then "mash lower" is a good recommendation, as is "replace some of the base malt with simple sugar". These are both perfectly viable options, though of course they will yield slightly different flavor results.
     
  31. barfdiggs

    barfdiggs Savant (420) California Mar 22, 2011

    Like homebrew said, both work.

    If you're brewing extract, you can't mash lower, so using corn sugar in place of some base malt works great.

    For all grain beers, I tend to mash lower for IPAs/DIPAs, but for DIPAs I replace a substantial portion (15%) with corn sugar; as long as your yeast is healthy and oxygenation is good, the beers really dry out nicely (Note: I do use some (5-10%) carapils/dextrine or C20/40 malt with both IPAs and DIPAs to improve body, in addition to 2-row to make sure the corn sugar/low mash doesn't thin the beer too much).

    Hop resins help the body of beer, so really hoppy beers can still have a nice body despite being substantially dry.
     
  32. Beejay

    Beejay Savant (495) Virginia Dec 29, 2008

    The majority of my IPAs have not had any dry hops, and are highly aromatic. I personally don't care if people dry hop or not, I certainly have done both, but I do not think that it makes or breaks the style.
     
  33. So...do you NOT dryhop regularly because it consumes a lot more hops? because you feel you are getting as much aroma without them? or you get the "grassy" flavors some palates are sensitive to ? or you don't feel it's worth the extra effort? ....or something else?
     
  34. Pahn

    Pahn Advocate (695) New York Dec 2, 2009

    the only reason i can imagine not dry hopping at a sort of novice brewing stage is that the hops are eating up too much of your beer. beyond that, price seems a strange reason (1~3oz hops is cheap by anyone's standards that can afford homebrewing--and craft beer generally--in the first place), and off flavors seem rare enough that i imagine you'd have to go out of your way to get them (e.g. leave the hops in for 6 months).
     
  35. rmalinowski4

    rmalinowski4 Savant (350) Illinois Oct 22, 2010

    I understand what you are saying with regard to just adding sugar. When I made my recipe, I took the honey into consideration in the calculation of the OG with the understanding that it would ferment out at 100% instead of the typical 75% of the DME, thus causing the FG to be a couple points lower than if I had just used DME to reach the same OG. Just adding sugar and will increase the OG, add more alcohol, and should not result in a lower FG. Sorry for the confusion and not being clearer in my original reply.
     
  36. Beejay

    Beejay Savant (495) Virginia Dec 29, 2008

    Meh.. I don't feel like it is necessary. If I can make a great tasting and smelling beer without the additional time, effort, and hops.. why do it? Like I said sometimes I dry hop, sometimes I don't, depends on the recipe.
     
  37. Ok, I am now interested in dry hopping. My brewday was Sunday and fermentation appears to be going well. If I plan to add some hops to my primary, when should I do so? I am using a plastic fermenter bucket. Do I just open it an put the hops in? Or does that risk contamination?
     
  38. Homebrew42

    Homebrew42 Savant (425) New York Dec 20, 2006

    Wait until primary fermentation is complete or nearly complete, open the lid, drop the hops in, close the lid. That's it.
     
  39. C2H5

    C2H5 Savant (435) Illinois Jan 7, 2012

    Don't fear the dry hop! It is worth it, that violent primary fermentation "blows out" a lot of the best hop qualities, that it what you will avoid with the dry hop..so adding the hops (open lid/drop) to the primary fermentation vessel after the initial fermentation (4-7 days) should work out just fine...the reason people move the brew to a secondary vessel is to get the beer off the trub/yeast, but thats another story...
     
  40. Besides not fearing the dry hop, don't fear the specialty grains with all extract brews. It does a lot to bring out some flavors lost using just DME...
     

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