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Looking for a some hop aroma please.

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by slayerhellfire, Mar 13, 2012.

  1. slayerhellfire

    slayerhellfire Member

    Location:
    New York
    So I want to brew a IPA this weekend and I am looking for a good recipe for a IPA w/ a lot of hop aroma, with a bit a sweetness. Anyone have anything that I can try? Looking for a 6-7% abv, all grain recipe! I have been looking online alot but don't really know what to look for to have this type of profile in the beer.:)
  2. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Member

    Location:
    Pennsylvania
    Aroma will result from the late hop additions of end of boil and dry hopping.

    I am sure that folks will provide you with examples of their favorite IPA recipes.

    I would recommend that you read the two below threads particularly for the discussion on the amounts of hops to add for an IPA. Some folks are of the opinion that a lot of hops should be used; e.g., 4 ounces during the last 20 minutes of boil and 4 ounces for dry hopping. I am of the opinion that a total of 3-4 ounces of hops (for last 20 minutes of boil and dry hopping) will provide a lot of taste and aroma.

    Good luck with your IPA.

    Cheers!

    http://beeradvocate.com/community/threads/more-hops-more-flavor.4208/

    http://beeradvocate.com/community/threads/looking-for-a-simple-all-extract-no-grain-no-secondary-fermentation-no-dry-hop-ipa-recipe.2872/
  3. VikeMan

    VikeMan Member

    Location:
    Pennsylvania
    +1. It's certainly possible, depending on hop variety and freshness, and avoiding exposure to O2.
  4. slayerhellfire

    slayerhellfire Member

    Location:
    New York
    ok cool maybe I will find some recipes out there and see what you guys think
  5. VikeMan

    VikeMan Member

    Location:
    Pennsylvania
    Here's one I keep coming back to in one form or another, that has good hop aroma and a touch of 'sweetness' (i.e it's not bone dry)...

    Target OG 1.063
    92% Maris Otter
    8% Crystal 20, 40, or 60
    Mash at 153F

    Centennial Leaf 0.75 oz (10.5 AAs) @ 60
    Centennial Leaf 1.3 oz @ 20
    Centennial Leaf 2.0 oz @ 5
    Centennial Leaf 2.0 oz DH

    Wyeast 1056, ferment @ 67F
  6. aficionado

    aficionado Member

    Location:
    New Jersey
    Can you give some commercial examples as well as more descriptive adjectives of what you're really seeking? Terms like "a little bit of this" vs. "a lot of that" are really up for debate for some people. One man's hop explosion is another man's drinking water... just sayin'.
  7. slayerhellfire

    slayerhellfire Member

    Location:
    New York
    well more like Nectar IPA, Green flash IPA, Union Jack IPA, I am noticing a west coast feel to this lol...o_O
  8. Grohnke

    Grohnke Member

    Location:
    Illinois
    Research Hopbursting...should be something of interest to you

    (in short, its bringing down the bittering hops to only make up a small portion of the total IBU, and adding large amount of late hops to increase ibus while providing stellar hop flavor and aroma..simple enough right)
  9. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Member

    Location:
    Pennsylvania
    I did a quick web search and found the below clone recipe for Green Flash West Coast IPA. Just take note that this is for a 6 gallon batch. I would suggest that you multiply the grain amounts by 0.833 (5/6) if you intend to brew a 5 gallon batch. I have not brewed this recipe.

    This was recently featured on the Brewing Network's "Can you Brew It?" The recipe they came up with are as follows:

    For a 6 gallon Batch

    90 minute boil

    SG 1069

    SRM 8.8

    14 lbs 2 row

    1.31 lbs Crystal 40 (GF uses Carastan 30-37)

    1.31 lbs Carapils

    .5 OZ Simcoe at 90 min (They recommend bumping this up to get about 35 IBU)

    .25 oz each of Columbus and Simoce at 60 mins

    .25 oz each of Columbus and Simoce at 30 mins

    .75 oz each of Columbus and Simcoe at 15 mins

    1 oz Cascade at 10

    .5 oz each of Columbus and Simoce at 1 min or flame out

    Dry Hops-

    .5 oz each of Amarillo, Centennial, Columbus Simcoe, Cascade

    WLP001, Wyeast 1056

    Mash at 152F and Ferment at 72F. Jamil recommends starting at 68 and letting it ramp up to 72F

    http://thebrewingnetwork.com/shows/489

    Cheers!
  10. slayerhellfire

    slayerhellfire Member

    Location:
    New York
  11. Neffbeer

    Neffbeer Member

    Location:
    Pennsylvania
    I just brewed this recipe last month:

    6 gallon batch

    90 minute boil

    SG 1.062

    Mashed for 90 minutes at 148F

    FG 1.008
    SRM 6

    IBU 96ish

    Malt and fermentables:
    11lbs Maris Otter
    1lb Table sugar (add at 15min left in boil)
    8oz Flaked Barley
    6oz of crystal 40
    Hops:
    mash 90 mins 1.0oz Chinook
    boil 60 mins 1.5oz Columbus
    boil 10 mins 2.0oz Simcoe
    boil 5 mins 2.0oz Cascade
    boil 1 min 2.0oz Amarillo

    dry hop 5 days
    1.0oz Amarillo
    1.0oz Cascade
    1.0oz Simcoe

    Yeast WLP 001 or wyeast 1056
    Ferment at 66F

    The aroma is amazing on this beer and it finishes very dry with some toast from the Maris otter.

    Cheers
  12. Homebrew42

    Homebrew42 Member

    Location:
    New York
    The crystal malt police are on their way to your house right now!
    maskednegator and barfdiggs like this.
  13. aficionado

    aficionado Member

    Location:
    New Jersey
    Despite the name, I don't really find much "West Coast" in Green Flash West Coast IPA...Sure it's bitter and aromatic, but it comes across as sweet to me, mashed too high, and kind of muddled with 16% crystal... a high amount for West Coast purposes, but not necessarily wrong in general. I always found Green Flash Imperial IPA to be much more West Coast.

    If you want West Coast in a standard IPA, then I suggest mashing low, going with lots of 2-row or the less obvious MO or GP, drying it out with 5-8% corn sugar, 4-7% carapils for that tinge of sweet light caramel, choosing Cali Ale yeast, and focusing on an American NW hop assault with lots of late hop additions, dryhop, and hopbursting methods. For a standard IPA, I dryhop at the rate of .50 to .67 oz. hops per gallon beer, depending on the variety of hops I have on hand. With something like Citra, a little bit goes a long way.
  14. Patrick

    Patrick Member

    Location:
    Massachusetts
    I think I heard on The Brewing Network's The Sunday Session, that Firestone Walker uses bittering hops and then the rest are added to the whirlpool. I forgot the recommendation Tasty had to recreate that on the homebrewing level, but the info is out there somewhere.

    Also, I think BA user bulletrain76 works at FW, you might hit him up, or maybe he can post here.
  15. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Member

    Location:
    Pennsylvania
    It would appear that they have already arrived! ;)
  16. Homebrew42

    Homebrew42 Member

    Location:
    New York
    Just out of curiosity, what kind of IPAs would you say that Stone, Deschutes, and Lagunitas are brewing, because they all use English ale yeasts, and crystal, and Lagunitas reportedly mashes at 160?
  17. Homebrew42

    Homebrew42 Member

    Location:
    New York
    Stone reportedly brews their IPA by adding a bittering charge and then then wort doesn't see another hop until whirlpool, and then of course dry hopping.
  18. aficionado

    aficionado Member

    Location:
    New Jersey
    Cali Ale yeast is the obvious answer for West Coast style IPAs, but it's not the only choice. I've brewed tasty IPAs with WLP002 and 007. But the OP didn't quote any of those breweries you mentioned that use an English strain... and I'm not exactly sure what the house yeast is for Green Flash or Firestone Walker.

    I also never said that these breweries do not use crystal, or even to avoid crystal... I just said that I'm not a fan of it in LARGE amounts (the same with mashing high) for the purposes of brewing a West Coast IPA. I'm sure Lagunitas has a lot more intricacies in their process (which may offset a high mash temp) that neither you or I can make sense of unless we brew for Lagunitas. So I stand by my assertion that Green Flash West Coast IPA doesn't exactly strike me as very "West Coast".
  19. Homebrew42

    Homebrew42 Member

    Location:
    New York
    So I'm still curious, what kind of IPAs would you say that Stone, Deschutes, and Lagunitas are brewing? What about Sierra Nevada? Or Green Flash for that matter?
  20. aficionado

    aficionado Member

    Location:
    New Jersey
    What's your point? The term West Coast IPA is apparently different for everyone. I feel Kern and Alpine and RR put out some good West Coast IPAs. Not really a fan of the others aside from fresh to death Stone IPA (which can still taste like malt syrup if trying it after a hoppier IPA) and Lagunitas Sucks, great nose but that's a bit too sweet. Green Flash Imperial IPA is more West Coast than GFWC IPA in my opinion.
  21. Homebrew42

    Homebrew42 Member

    Location:
    New York

    I'm just curious about your opinion on the subject. If Stone, Green Flash, etc are not a "West Coast IPAs" then what are they in your opinion? Are they East Coast IPAs? Are they English IPAs? What are they?
  22. aficionado

    aficionado Member

    Location:
    New Jersey
    I already told you examples of what "I" found to be true West Coast, as well as explain the general guidelines that I would take to create such a beer. Why do you enjoy beating this issue to death? I didn't say that my concept of West Coast, or my way of brewing West Coast IPAs was absolute law. But you're essentially saying that my opinions are wrong. Drop the imposing tough guy act, Joe. To answer your question more literally, I believe they're West Coast IPAs that aren't brewed to the absolute best of their ability. They could be drier, hoppier, cleaner, more bitter, more aromatic, more addictive.
  23. Patrick

    Patrick Member

    Location:
    Massachusetts
    I have the opinion that the homebrewing forums are actually my facebook wall.
  24. Homebrew42

    Homebrew42 Member

    Location:
    New York
    I’m not trying to be a “tough guy”, Rob, why are you so defensive all the time? You’ve mentioned a number of times that you brew IPAs exclusively, you like drinking IPAs, and you comment in all the IPA threads, so I was just curious what your opinion was regarding these commercial IPAs.

    I've said on the forums many times that I like brewing and drinking bitters, and I sometimes get beer mails from people asking my opinion on the subject. I don't generally take these inquiries as an attack and act in a defensive manner, I just take them as par for the course given how often I post (or used to post) on the subject.
  25. aficionado

    aficionado Member

    Location:
    New Jersey
    Despite your defense of claiming not to be pushy for the public, you kind of are. Calling someone out on it is to be expected if you're always acting like a passive aggressive bigot. There are a few of you here. You comment on all of my threads in a very passive, yet patronizing manner. This is nothing new.
  26. Homebrew42

    Homebrew42 Member

    Location:
    New York
    This is a discussion forum, you have strong opinions, people question your opinions, this is how a discussion forum works, but you take it as if you're being attacked. Apparently the problem isn't you though, it's everyone else. Why is it that nobody but you has this same problem?
  27. aficionado

    aficionado Member

    Location:
    New Jersey
    Define my strong opinions vs. your strong opinions and explain how they differ. Maybe you have always had it out for me whenever I communicate my thoughts OR maybe I communicate my opinions in a cocky way...maybe both. I don't think I do this, but I'd love to see some illustration.

    Edit:

    Do you realize how ridiculous it is to badger someone for their opinions? Even passive aggresively...as if you're waiting for me to miss something or skip a beat so you can berate me on the forums. It gets real old and I really don't care, but I thought I'd call you out on it. Either way, this is a forum and people should be allowed to talk, suggest, offer opinions without overly serious folk like you coming along and questioning every damn expressed thought as if we defied the constitution.
  28. Homebrew42

    Homebrew42 Member

    Location:
    New York
    No no, you're absolutely right, it's not you, it's all of us, we've all been out to get you since day one.

    Anyway, all I wanted to know is how you would classify Stone IPA etc. You're not the only one who thinks that "West Coast" IPAs should be bone dry and use little/no crystal etc, and I'm just trying to understand how this opinion fits in with the popular commercial examples out there. Apparently I asked the wrong person as I'm now a tough guy passive aggressive bigot. That's fine, lesson learned.
  29. aficionado

    aficionado Member

    Location:
    New Jersey
    You didn't answer the question.

    And for the hundreth time, I answered your question.
  30. sergeantstogie

    sergeantstogie Member

    Location:
    Washington
    Dude, as a frequent reader and sometime contributor to these types of threads who has no vested interest in taking sides, you really might want to rethink your online "voice" or attitude. Eventually a rational person has to realize, maybe it's not them that is the problem. I think you may actually have some pretty decent info or added insight to contribute here but it's tough to glean from your posts because of the way you come off.
  31. aficionado

    aficionado Member

    Location:
    New Jersey
    I understand what you are saying, but there is a history here which you do not understand. Additionally, there are pros of passive-aggressionism... and there are those who call them out on it.
  32. sergeantstogie

    sergeantstogie Member

    Location:
    Washington
    No I understand. I'm not new here. Perhaps there has been some private BMs that influence your position, but from what all of us can read, it's pretty clear.
  33. aficionado

    aficionado Member

    Location:
    New Jersey
    Your bias towards my usual tone is obvious, and while I may be an abrasive and direct person... at least I'm not someone who would backstab, talk shit behind your back, or passively attack for attention. This always occurs in the same order: me giving opinionated advice (just as everyone else does) but then I am passively badgered by a few select BA veterans for exclaiming said opinion. Tired of it.
  34. sergeantstogie

    sergeantstogie Member

    Location:
    Washington
  35. Patrick

    Patrick Member

    Location:
    Massachusetts
    Who is a back stabber?
  36. NiceFly

    NiceFly Member

    Location:
    Tajikistan
    MY GOODNESS! TAKE THIS OFF TOPIC CHATTER TO A CONVERSATION AND DO NOT DERAIL THE THREAD.
    I never bothered much with aroma, but recently started trying to get more out of it. I have been disappointed so far 10min and DH additions. I think I need an in line hop thing going through a plate chiller or something.
  37. Patrick

    Patrick Member

    Location:
    Massachusetts
    If that was serious, make sure to put the in line hop thing after the plate chiller. Hops will ruin your shit if you are trying to pump through a plate chiller.
  38. Homebrew42

    Homebrew42 Member

    Location:
    New York
    If we're talking about something like a hopback, that goes before your chiller, not after. The hops stay in the hopback and don't go into the chiller, so they do not ruin your shit. The theory being that the hot wort strips the oils off the hops and then the wort goes immediately into the chiller, thus trapping the oils in the wort and not allowing then to volatilize.
  39. Patrick

    Patrick Member

    Location:
    Massachusetts
    I get the whole hopback deal, that was mostly a word of caution that wasn't so serious since I figured the post I was replying to wasn't too serious to begin with.
  40. NiceFly

    NiceFly Member

    Location:
    Tajikistan
    It is serious, if not a capitol expenditure a bit far away.
    I use whole leaf, so I was thinking something like HB42 suggested. Hot wort hit hops then cool and trap those oils. I was thinking a screen or something would keep the whole hops out and since it is hot the cold break would not clog it.

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