Looking for a simple, all extract (no grain), no secondary fermentation, no dry hop IPA recipe

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by PlinyBubbles, Mar 4, 2012.

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  1. Homebrew42

    Homebrew42 Initiate (0) Dec 20, 2006 New York

    Amarillo, cascade, columbus, centennial, nugget, citra, magnum, crystal, etc, etc...whatever really.
     
  2. jmich24

    jmich24 Initiate (0) Jan 28, 2010 Michigan

    You can use any hop as homebrew suggests, but I would stick with Amarillo. That way you can get a great if you like that specific hop.
    I just brewed an all Galaxy yesterday bittered with magnum and I look forward to more single hop beers to learn more about the specific hop used.

    Also I try to take good notes on recipes and brewing procedures in an attempt to learn and replicate what worked well.

    Good luck
     
  3. rmalinowski4

    rmalinowski4 Pundit (753) Oct 22, 2010 Illinois

    If you want a west coast style, you should add a sugar to help dry it out some. Personally, I like using honey for this. Just add 8oz of good honey at flame out and it will help take the FG down a few points.
     
  4. Homebrew42

    Homebrew42 Initiate (0) Dec 20, 2006 New York

    This is a common misconception, simply adding sugar to an existing recipe isn't going to lower the final gravity and dry out the beer, the way you dry out a beer with sugar is by replacing the malt with it, not supplimenting the malt with it. In other words a 1.060 beer that's all malt is going to have a higher final gravity and will be fuller bodied than a 1.060 beer that's 5% or 10% sugar, but if you simply take a 1.060 beer and add sugar to it you're going to end up with either the same FG, or possibly even a higher FG than you would have before.
     
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  5. GreenKrusty101

    GreenKrusty101 Initiate (0) Dec 4, 2008 Nevada

    I see what you are saying, but you really should be comparing it (a 1.060 beer + sugar) to say an all malt 1.063 beer because the extra sugar will add gravity as well and because it is essentially 100% fermentable will result in proportionally more alcohol as well as less mouth feel.
     
  6. Homebrew42

    Homebrew42 Initiate (0) Dec 20, 2006 New York


    Eh, not really. The statement that's often made is "add sugar to that recipe in order to dry it out", this is incorrect, a correct statement would be "replace 5-10% of malt gravity in that recipe with sugar in order to dry it out". Simply dumping sugar into an existing wort does not dry it out, what dries a beer out it is replacing part of the partially fermentable malt gravity with fully fermentable sugar gravity.
     
  7. GreenKrusty101

    GreenKrusty101 Initiate (0) Dec 4, 2008 Nevada

    I think when most people say "add some sugar to dry it out" they realize that the sugar will add gravity and also that they may have to adjust other things as well such as hopping and pitching for significant changes. Let's face it...your calculator is going to tell you that anyway if you are paying attention.
     
  8. Homebrew42

    Homebrew42 Initiate (0) Dec 20, 2006 New York

    There are many people who think that you can dry out a beer by simply adding sugar to an existing recipe, I see people recommending this all the time.
     
  9. Pahn

    Pahn Initiate (0) Dec 2, 2009 New York

    what do you think the better recommendation is? "mash lower"? "replace some of the base malt with corn sugar"? what decides the question?

    edit: or pitching rates / water quality / etc etc. i don't know what the best thing to focus on is, obviously, but "mash lower" was my guess.
     
  10. Homebrew42

    Homebrew42 Initiate (0) Dec 20, 2006 New York

    If you want to take an existing recipe and simply lower the final gravity then "mash lower" is a good recommendation, as is "replace some of the base malt with simple sugar". These are both perfectly viable options, though of course they will yield slightly different flavor results.
     
  11. barfdiggs

    barfdiggs Initiate (0) Mar 22, 2011 California

    Like homebrew said, both work.

    If you're brewing extract, you can't mash lower, so using corn sugar in place of some base malt works great.

    For all grain beers, I tend to mash lower for IPAs/DIPAs, but for DIPAs I replace a substantial portion (15%) with corn sugar; as long as your yeast is healthy and oxygenation is good, the beers really dry out nicely (Note: I do use some (5-10%) carapils/dextrine or C20/40 malt with both IPAs and DIPAs to improve body, in addition to 2-row to make sure the corn sugar/low mash doesn't thin the beer too much).

    Hop resins help the body of beer, so really hoppy beers can still have a nice body despite being substantially dry.
     
  12. Beejay

    Beejay Pooh-Bah (2,559) Dec 29, 2008 Virginia
    Pooh-Bah

    The majority of my IPAs have not had any dry hops, and are highly aromatic. I personally don't care if people dry hop or not, I certainly have done both, but I do not think that it makes or breaks the style.
     
  13. GreenKrusty101

    GreenKrusty101 Initiate (0) Dec 4, 2008 Nevada

    So...do you NOT dryhop regularly because it consumes a lot more hops? because you feel you are getting as much aroma without them? or you get the "grassy" flavors some palates are sensitive to ? or you don't feel it's worth the extra effort? ....or something else?
     
  14. Pahn

    Pahn Initiate (0) Dec 2, 2009 New York

    the only reason i can imagine not dry hopping at a sort of novice brewing stage is that the hops are eating up too much of your beer. beyond that, price seems a strange reason (1~3oz hops is cheap by anyone's standards that can afford homebrewing--and craft beer generally--in the first place), and off flavors seem rare enough that i imagine you'd have to go out of your way to get them (e.g. leave the hops in for 6 months).
     
  15. rmalinowski4

    rmalinowski4 Pundit (753) Oct 22, 2010 Illinois

    I understand what you are saying with regard to just adding sugar. When I made my recipe, I took the honey into consideration in the calculation of the OG with the understanding that it would ferment out at 100% instead of the typical 75% of the DME, thus causing the FG to be a couple points lower than if I had just used DME to reach the same OG. Just adding sugar and will increase the OG, add more alcohol, and should not result in a lower FG. Sorry for the confusion and not being clearer in my original reply.
     
  16. Beejay

    Beejay Pooh-Bah (2,559) Dec 29, 2008 Virginia
    Pooh-Bah

    Meh.. I don't feel like it is necessary. If I can make a great tasting and smelling beer without the additional time, effort, and hops.. why do it? Like I said sometimes I dry hop, sometimes I don't, depends on the recipe.
     
  17. PlinyBubbles

    PlinyBubbles Initiate (0) Nov 3, 2011 California

    Ok, I am now interested in dry hopping. My brewday was Sunday and fermentation appears to be going well. If I plan to add some hops to my primary, when should I do so? I am using a plastic fermenter bucket. Do I just open it an put the hops in? Or does that risk contamination?
     
  18. Homebrew42

    Homebrew42 Initiate (0) Dec 20, 2006 New York

    Wait until primary fermentation is complete or nearly complete, open the lid, drop the hops in, close the lid. That's it.
     
  19. C2H5

    C2H5 Initiate (0) Jan 7, 2012 Illinois

    Don't fear the dry hop! It is worth it, that violent primary fermentation "blows out" a lot of the best hop qualities, that it what you will avoid with the dry hop..so adding the hops (open lid/drop) to the primary fermentation vessel after the initial fermentation (4-7 days) should work out just fine...the reason people move the brew to a secondary vessel is to get the beer off the trub/yeast, but thats another story...
     
  20. TheKingOfLimbs

    TheKingOfLimbs Initiate (0) Jul 21, 2011 Pennsylvania

    Besides not fearing the dry hop, don't fear the specialty grains with all extract brews. It does a lot to bring out some flavors lost using just DME...
     
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