All set: New equipment and some questions

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by Jos3h2r, Aug 30, 2019.

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  1. Jos3h2r

    Jos3h2r Initiate (0) Apr 7, 2015 Panama

    So I just made a major update to my homebrewing equipment. Change pretty much everything, bought a New Clawhammer supply BIAB 120V electric system, works really cool. My concern is the fermentation chamber, i bought a chest freezer, put a itc 308 wifi thermostat and a plaato.io airlock(cool little gadget). My questions is about the thermostat settings.
    Right now is like this, im just testing. No beer in the chamber yet.
    Temp 64F
    Cooling difference +1F
    Heating difference -2F
    Refrigeration delay 10 min

    If we know fermentation raise the temp, how many F normally will raise during the fermentation days normally?
    Because if Im fermenting with an ale yeast, say safale us05 at 67F, how many F delow that temp should I put the thermostat 62? 63?
    And for how many days? Until I dont see any activity in the airlock? Or an specific day after I pitch the yeast? Say 4 o 5 days then raise the thermostat to 67?

    I wanna know how do you tweak you fermentation chamber and thermostat settings during fermentation.
     
  2. pweis909

    pweis909 Grand Pooh-Bah (3,250) Aug 13, 2005 Wisconsin
    Pooh-Bah

    I tape a probe to the fermenter. I cover the probe with foam insulation. I assume the probe senses the temperature of the fermenter and the fermenting beer. Good enough for me.
     
  3. Eggman20

    Eggman20 Crusader (433) Feb 14, 2017 Minnesota

    I do the same. I assume the inside temp is likely a couple degrees warmer inside so I aim the temp a little lower than my ideal fermentation temp. After a couple days of fermenting I'll start raising the temps a degree or two per day
     
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  4. billandsuz

    billandsuz Pooh-Bah (2,097) Sep 1, 2004 New York
    Pooh-Bah

    A few pointers here.
    • The probe measures air temp, not liquid temp. Air temp fluctuates much more than liquid temp, so don't live and die by the air temp reading. A thermometer in a glass of water is going to be more accurate.
    • A chest freezer will continue to cool well after the compressor shuts off. The coils will remain ice cold. The out board t-stat is just an on/off switch. The compressor operates at 100% when on and 0% when off, and it normally is trying to get to 0F. So you will over shoot your target temp if not careful.
    • A 1F diff is really tight, again the air temp fluctuates but liquid not so much. Cycling your compressor too frequently will cause an early death. Better to run it for longer duration less frequently than constant start/stop cycles.
    • There is a gradient inside the freezer. Top to bottom can be a few degrees different. Experiment.
    • Do not place the t-stat probe on the side of the freezer. Tape it to the carboy if possible. Better yet put it inside a vial of water if it is waterproof. Or best of all use an immersion thermo-probe and put it inside the wort.
    • Don't get too hung up on the perfect fermentation temp. If you want 50 and you are getting 54 you will not be able to tell the difference. Maybe on the 15th attempt but certainly not routinely.
    • There is one way, and only one way, to know how far your wort has fermented. Use a hydrometer. Or don't, guess based on intuition (perfectly acceptable) and adjust temps from there. But there is only one way to know what your yeast have done. And that is with gravity readings.
    Cheers.
     
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  5. NorCalKid

    NorCalKid Initiate (0) Jan 10, 2018 California

    https://www.morebeer.com/products/10-silicone-stopper-thermowell.html

    https://www.morebeer.com/products/inkbird-digital-temperature-controller.html

    https://www.morebeer.com/products/fermwrap-heater.html

    I don’t work for MoreBeer. But these are some options. The inkbird has a dual controller. Cool/Heat. It’s helpful to keep a steady temperature during the entire fermentation cycle. I slowly raise the temp after a few days or when signs of main fermentation slow. My fermenter has a thermowell. But if you’re using glass or plastic fermenters the thermowell/stopper should work perfect.
     
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  6. Jos3h2r

    Jos3h2r Initiate (0) Apr 7, 2015 Panama

    Wow Thanks a lot, you cleared pretty much all my questions.
    Im learning to dial this but i know the first days of fermentation are the nost important and I dont wanna mess that up.

    The temp raising is after fermentation right?
    And cold crash? At the very end before bottling? How many days 2 or 3 in cold crash? At what temp?

    Tx again guys
     
  7. billandsuz

    billandsuz Pooh-Bah (2,097) Sep 1, 2004 New York
    Pooh-Bah

    If temp raising means diacetyl rest, you want to bring the beer up to the mid 60s for two days if possible. When you are nearing FG maybe 5 points away let the temp rise. Don't sweat the details, a rest at around 75% of completion above 60F for two days will work if you don't feel the need to be very technical. That is for a lager. A diacetyl rest can also be used for ales, and depending on the style should be. Just let the yeast hang out for two days after fermentation is completed.

    Then cold crash. This can be done in the fermentation bucket. Drop the beer to 30F. This will cause the yeast to drop out and produce bright beer Let is sit for a day or so before bottling. You can lager at this stage or you can bottle and lager in the bottle. There are some advantages to each but no big deal imo.

    With any beer, pils, IPA, stout, any beer, a week of cold conditioning is beneficial. Beer is "green" when it is newly minted. You'll see a noticeable improvement if you can let your beer rest for a week at a cool temperature.

    When you bottle be extra careful not to disturb the yeast cake.
    Lager beer benefits, quite a bit, from extended lagering. I personally try to keep the beer at 30F for 3 weeks but will typically drink some from the keg before that. Ales can be enjoyed faster but still a week of quiet resting is advised.


    Serving temp should be right around 38F.

    Good luck.
     
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  8. PortLargo

    PortLargo Pooh-Bah (1,831) Oct 19, 2012 Florida
    Pooh-Bah

    Regarding temp in your primary; basically the rise in temp follows this graph:

    [​IMG]

    To me nothing is more accurate than using a thermowell to measure temp. I've had good success with this approach:
    https://www.beeradvocate.com/commun...emps-fermometer-accuracy.576635/#post-6051565

    Which ever method you use, suggest you fill your primary (not a small glass) with water and give your fridge/controller a good test run before you have beer at risk. This won't show a temp rise from fermentation, but it allows you to dial-in the basics of your equipment . . . one less variable to worry about when the show starts.
     
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  9. InVinoVeritas

    InVinoVeritas Initiate (0) Apr 16, 2012 Wisconsin

    As an alternative to cycling cold, I cycle heat. I keep my frig temp steady and run a heat blanket, which is activated from a thermowell reading. I find the blanket can exceed ambient about 15 deg F. My controller also have capabilities to cool. However, although I don't use my beer frig for food, freezer is used for both for food and hops. I will sooner or later get a dedicated chest freezer for fermentation, however I'm not in a rush. I just did my Oktoberfest complete with a diacetyl rest without any issue.
     
    Jos3h2r likes this.
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