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Campden Tablet usage for water with Chloramines?

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by tronester, Jun 23, 2012.

  1. tronester

    tronester Nov 25, 2006 Oklahoma

    This year my city switched from using Chlorine to Choramines in the water supply. In order to effectively neutralize it for my brewing water, I can use Campden tablets, correct?

    If so, what is the reccomended number of tablets to treat each gallon? I've heard 1 tablet per gallon, crushed, but also 1 tablet for the entire batch?
  2. Homebrew42

    Homebrew42 Dec 20, 2006 New York

    1 tablet per 20 gallons is the dosage to treat for chlorine/chloramine, 1 tablet per gallon is the dosage for sanitizing a liquid pre fermentation or stabilizing post fermentation.
  3. tronester

    tronester Nov 25, 2006 Oklahoma

    Would it hurt anything if i used an entire tablet for a 3 gallon batch, simply to neutralize the chloramine?
  4. kenatbeerswap

    kenatbeerswap Dec 9, 2010 Pennsylvania

    I thought I read that campden tablets will get rid of chlorine but will not get rid of chloramine, that the only way to remove chloramine is by filtering through a charcoal filter? I would really like to know what brewers do to their water that have chloramine in it, I'm in the same boat and want to stop buying spring water.
  5. jokelahoma

    jokelahoma May 9, 2004 Missouri

    Campden definitely does react with chloramine. A cheap lifesaver.
  6. JebediahScooter

    JebediahScooter Sep 5, 2010 Vermont

    Campden here...I use one tablet per 5 gallon batch for my entire water volume (10-12 gal usually). Not sure of the exact amount I should be using.
  7. Danielbt

    Danielbt May 4, 2012 Texas

    As mentioned above, 1 tablet is effective for 20 gallons. So, get out a pill cutter and use halves.
    HaysAmerica likes this.
  8. HaysAmerica

    HaysAmerica Jan 28, 2011 Kansas

    Danielbt is correct. Just get a cheap pill cutter & use half a tablet. A cheap life & quality saver indeed as jokelahoma mentioned.
  9. Naugled

    Naugled Sep 25, 2007 New York

    I was over dosing with camden (KMETA) for awhile. I think I was using 25g to treat 15 gal. It had no ill effects on the beer. I've cut that back to 7g now and it still does the trick. I credit HB42 for catching that. I was using a method from an article in Brewing Techniques, that happened to have a typo in it. The water can pick up a funny vitamin flavor but it didn't seem to transfer to the beer.
  10. Homebrew42

    Homebrew42 Dec 20, 2006 New York

    Sounds to me like your still overdosing, campden tablets are 1/2 gram, so 7 grams for 15 gallons would still be way too much.
  11. SFB

    SFB Nov 5, 2008 Oregon

    I have been splitting 1 tab between mash and sparge for 10-15 gallon batches. Seems to work for me.
    inchrisin likes this.
  12. geezerpk

    geezerpk Nov 8, 2010 South Carolina

    What would be the downside of diluting, for instance, one or two tablets in a quart of water, then metering out a measured amount of the super-solution into 5, 10, or whatever gallons of water prior to mashing. Then storing the remaining super-solution in the fridge for subsequent brew sessions. I'm too lazy to do the portion math at this point, as there may be a flaw in the basic logic here. It wouldn't be the first time.
  13. Michadelphia

    Michadelphia Oct 1, 2008 Michigan

    Interesting subject. I have the same issue in my town. I also thought filtering was the only option. I heard from my LHBS that boiling would remove Choramines. I questioned this because the mash and HLT water is never brought to that boil point. How does that effect the beer? Their answer was an extra 30 min boil before the 60 min clock starts will do the trick.I am still not sold on that idea.

    After reading the comments above, the use of the campden tabs makes more sense to me. Even if the boiling method is true, the tabs seem much more efficient. And, you can use it for all of the water before you start your brew day.

    With that said, how much time should I wait after I dose my water with campden tablets?
  14. Homebrew42

    Homebrew42 Dec 20, 2006 New York

    Campden solution loses its potency rapidly, that why you can sanitize juice by adding campden and then pitch your yeast 24 hours later, because by then the majority of the campden has off-gassed.
  15. Homebrew42

    Homebrew42 Dec 20, 2006 New York

    Your LHBS is wrong, boiling is not an efficient way of removing chloramine. You can use the water immediately after its treated with the campden.
  16. leedorham

    leedorham Apr 27, 2006 Washington

    FWIW you can buy metabisulfite in powder form and basically put a tiny pinch in your water. Saves the bother of crushing a tablet and/or splitting it.
  17. VikeMan

    VikeMan Jul 12, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Beer Trader

    Make a note to never believe anything that particular employee tells you. Side rant: I swear I have never seen a hobby where so much bad advice is available from the people selling the hobby supplies. Side rant disclaimer: Yes, I know there are good LHBSs out there. But there are some truly bad ones.
    LeRose likes this.
  18. Naugled

    Naugled Sep 25, 2007 New York

    Yes, that would be. I actually use 1/4 tsp which is a little over a gram I think, I did a poor metric conversion..
  19. mradamhimself

    mradamhimself May 19, 2014 Illinois
    Beer Trader

    Not sure if a post to a 3+ year-old thread is appropriate, but I wanted to ask: on brew day, if I crush 1/2 a campden pill into ~7 gallons of warm water and let it sit for around 3 hours prior to heating for use in mash/sparge, will the whole mashing/sparging/boiling process neutralize the campden, or will it potentially inhibit my primary fermentation?
  20. VikeMan

    VikeMan Jul 12, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Beer Trader

    The campden will react with the chloramines very quickly. Used at recommended levels, it won't affect fermentation.
  21. invertalon

    invertalon Jan 27, 2009 Ohio
    Subscriber Beer Trader

    I use 1/4 tablet per 5 gallons water... I just cut the tablet in half with a butterknife and crush it into power with the butterknife on it's side... Easy enough. Add to mash and strike water and good to go.

    I also pre-filter through carbon.
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