Can you connect a beer shank to a tower?

Discussion in 'Home Bar' started by uscpsycho, May 28, 2016.

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  1. uscpsycho

    uscpsycho Initiate (0) May 28, 2016

    This might be a dumb question but I want to know if you can connect a beer shank to a tower?

    I just purchased my first kegerator and the tower on a Kegco sits a lot further back than expected so the tower will have to be behind the bar wall with the faucet mounted to the wall.

    I understand that I will need a shank to go through the wall (really only going through plywood in this case). Since I can have the tower super close to the faucet, I'm wondering if I can connect the back end of the shank directly to the tower?

    Everything I've found online says that shanks are designed to be connected directly to the beer line. But can I connect it to the tower instead? Would I need a special kind of shank like this one to do that?

    If I can't connect a shank to the tower, is there anything I can connect to the tower that will extend the faucet a couple of inches to let me go through the wall?
  2. billandsuz

    billandsuz Devotee (489) Sep 1, 2004 New York

    I am not quite sure what it is you are trying to accomplish.

    It is very important to consider cooling the beer lines. When people want to have a faucet located anywhere other than right on the tower and directly above the kegerator with a tower cooling fan then there is trouble. What I think you are describing is a remote draw system and this is not going to work without planning and expense. You cant just slap a faucet on a wall, run your lines and enjoy cold beer.

    If you can explain better we can help.
    A tower for a kegerator comes with a bent shaft shank. It is a specific part.

  3. uscpsycho

    uscpsycho Initiate (0) May 28, 2016

    I wouldn't call it a remote draw system unless you consider 2-3" as "remote".

    I'm just trying to get the faucet 2-3" away from the tower. Just enough to pass through plywood. So the tower is right behind the plywood and the faucet is right in front.

    Seems like using a longer shank is the solution. Tower cooling fan is no problem. Not sure I need extra cooling equipment for the two or three inches I extend the faucet out. Under the circumstances I can live with some foam on a first draw if I have to.

    Hopefully that explains things a little more clearly.
  4. billandsuz

    billandsuz Devotee (489) Sep 1, 2004 New York

    You are going to need a longer shank than the one provided. Look for a chart that tells you the usable length of the shank and then measure the length required carefully. The shank protrudes a bit from the front and you also need about an inch on the back side to thread the nut and tailpiece. So buy the correct usable length, not the overall length.

    You are going to need a way to seal up the hole on the tower too. And don't be surprised if you find removing the original bent shank shaft is frustrating only to find the installation of the retro fit shank nearly impossible. But it can be done with patience and planning. I don't recommend you try it.

    And yes, an extra 2 or 3 inches will definitely make a difference. Personally I don't recommend you do this without having a good solution for cooling. I don't know you, but my experience has been that people get tired very quickly when they pour foamy beer all the time. And it will foam all the time. Even a few inches of warm shank is going to be a headache. All the time. Draft beer is not like household plumbing. Maintaining temperature is by far the biggest problem most people have.
    uscpsycho and IceAce like this.
  5. uscpsycho

    uscpsycho Initiate (0) May 28, 2016

    What you are describing is replacing the shank. What I wonder is if there is a way to leave the existing shank in the tower and put another straight shank between the shank presently in the tower and the faucet. Or putting something other than another shank in between. Just looking for a way to move the faucet a couple of inches away from the tower.

    I'm not sure what you mean by sealing up the hole on the tower. The bottom of the tower will be connected directly to the kegerator and the shank will be connected to the opening at the top of the tower. What else do I need to seal up? I don't think my tower has any other holes.

    Isn't the point of a shank to go through a wall? Usually a wall is 4-6 inches thick. How do people going through a regular wall cool that last bit of pipe when it's inside a wall? I understand that when the faucet is in a remote location they have to cool the line up to the shank but how do you cool the shank that's in the wall?

    In my case the beer line will be in the tower and cooled by a tower cooler (as well as a tower can be cooled). Then the beer would go through my shank which will be one of the shortest you can buy (shorter than going through a regular wall). How can I cool this last 2 inch section of pipe between the tower and the faucet?

    Thanks for the help and advice!
  6. billandsuz

    billandsuz Devotee (489) Sep 1, 2004 New York

    No. Not that I have ever seen.
    The faucet mates to the shank with splines. The thread is unique. You would have to fabricate an extension.
    A round tower has a special cover to fit against the curve of the tower.
    No, a shank connects a faucet to the beer line. That's it. It can be long enough to go through a thick wall. Or it can be very short.
    If a long shank is required one method to cool is with a glycol loop against each shank with a metal plate. Or air can be directed against the ahnk. But the longer the shank the harder it is to keep cold. It is best to avoid long shanks if possible.

    You can't.There is no such thing as a shank extension. Well, I've never seen it.

    This is also why I am suggesting you spend three times the amount of time and money you are planning to on this project. Take photos and post them here if you look. We can guide you along.
    IceAce likes this.
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