Diacetyl Rest and Lagering

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by OldBrewer, Apr 19, 2018.

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  1. OldBrewer

    OldBrewer Savant (1,199) Jan 13, 2016 Canada (ON)

    You also have to keep in mind that active fermentation doesn't necessarily get rid of the excess diacetyl during fermentation. It is once fermentation has mostly ceased that the yeast begin to actively forage for alternative sugar sources - mostly diacetyl. So, in either case, it is important to let fermentation continue for at least a week or more after fermentation seems to have stopped. This means to not let the temperature drop to below the low 40's during that time. According to Chris White, crash cooling immediately after the diacetyl rest is not recommended. Rather, a slow drop of about 1.5 C per day (better 0.8 C every 12 hours) is recommended, until the low 40's is reached. Then leave it there for about another week before dropping it to the low 30's.
     
  2. pweis909

    pweis909 Grand Pooh-Bah (3,114) Aug 13, 2005 Wisconsin
    Pooh-Bah

    My experience could represent a safe estimate. In my original post, I was just trying to relate my experience, which didn't involve rigorous testing of diacetyl reduction over time. It stands to reason that the vigor of the newly pitched yeast could impact the minimum time to diacetyl reduction. @TheBeerery 's post suggest that krausening takes care of things very fast. So I cannot speak to the best optimistic timeline, but can attest that active yeast has always solved the problem for me.
     
  3. VikeMan

    VikeMan Pooh-Bah (2,901) Jul 12, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah

    I could be wrong, but when diacetyl is reduced inside the yeast cells, I'm pretty sure sugars are not a product.
     
  4. OldBrewer

    OldBrewer Savant (1,199) Jan 13, 2016 Canada (ON)

    What I meant is that when the yeast have used up all the readily available sugars in the beer, they then look for alternative sources of food to build up their reserves, which includes diacetyl. Before that, they prefer the malt sugars to the diacetyl. Thus if the beer is crashed before the yeast have turned their attention to the diacetyl, the yeast become dormant and can't finish the job of reducing the diacetyl. Chris White and Jamil Zainasheff say, in their book Yeast , "Separating the yeast from the beer too soon or cooling the beer early can leave a considerable amount of diacetyl and diacetyl precursors in the beer. Even though you may not taste the diacetyl, the beer may still coNTain high levels of the diacetyl precursor acetolactate. Any oxygen pickup during transfers or packaging will most likely result in diacetyl, and once you remove the yeast, there is no simple way to get rid of diacetyl or its precursor. They also say: "while it is possible to do a diacetyl rest once the fermentation reaches terminal gravity, the proper time to do a diacetyl rest is two to five specific gravity points prior to reaching termInal gravity." Another key statement is: "What you do not want to do is allow the fermentation temperature to drop at the end of fermentation. This will greatly slow or stop diacetyl reduction. Many brewers make the mistake of lowering the beer temperature immediately upon reaching terminal gravity, because they assume fermentation is complete and the beer is ready."
     
    #44 OldBrewer, May 23, 2018
    Last edited: May 23, 2018
  5. OldBrewer

    OldBrewer Savant (1,199) Jan 13, 2016 Canada (ON)

    Further Yeast states: "... very rapid reduction in temperature (less than 6 hours) at the end of fermentation can cause the yeast to excrete more ester compounds instead of retaining them. They recommend a slow rate of cooling the beer at the rate of 1 to 2 F per day (0.5 to 1 C). This is done to avoid sending the yeast into dormancy. Traditionally, once the beer reaches a temperature close to 40 F, the brewer transfers the beer into lagering containers. They say that some yeast strains require two week or more at 40 F to clear completely.
     
  6. invertalon

    invertalon Pooh-Bah (1,963) Jan 27, 2009 Ohio
    Pooh-Bah Trader

    I have stopped doing D-rests on my lagers the past 4 or 5 batches, fermenting 2206 at 48F. I have not picked up any diacetyl or other issues from doing so. Currently have three lagers on, all super clean.

    I pitch close to whatever yeasty-calc tells me to for my OG and batch size with stir plate growth.
     
  7. OldBrewer

    OldBrewer Savant (1,199) Jan 13, 2016 Canada (ON)

    How long do you leave it after terminal gravity has been reached before you bring it down to below 40 F?
     
  8. invertalon

    invertalon Pooh-Bah (1,963) Jan 27, 2009 Ohio
    Pooh-Bah Trader

    I typically keg by day 5 and spund for another few days at 48F as well. So usually, let's say 10 days max and i'm dropping down to 30F.
     
  9. OldBrewer

    OldBrewer Savant (1,199) Jan 13, 2016 Canada (ON)

    Wow, that's a very short time, and I'm wondering how you avoid diacetyl and esters,since it goes against what Chris White and Zainasheff have to say. Even my ales aren't kegged until at least 3 weeks have passed. My lagers are longer than that (about 4 weeks) before I drop it below 40 F. I've got one lager currently dropping slowly from a diacetyl rest (currently at about 51 F) and it's been 16 days since I added the yeast. Do you use a large and very healthy yeast starter as well as low oxygen methods? Which yeast do you use?
     
    #49 OldBrewer, May 23, 2018
    Last edited: May 23, 2018
  10. invertalon

    invertalon Pooh-Bah (1,963) Jan 27, 2009 Ohio
    Pooh-Bah Trader

    @OldBrewer

    Yes, low oxygen techniques and the lager yeast is 2206. Yes, typically my lagers have 400-500B cells, estimated at time of pitch. Usually a 1.5L to 3L stir plate step starter in which I harvest some of that for future beers. The 400-500B cell estimate is after I estimate 100B pulled for future starters.

    My ales are grain to glass in a week these days. My most recent IPA is the best I've ever done, as far as I am concerned. Tapped it 6 days after I brewed it!

    Used to do the long and slow processes, 2-3 week primaries and all that... But as my process changed it's quicker obviously and my beers are better than ever with very quick turnarounds. Love it.
     
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  11. TheBeerery

    TheBeerery Initiate (0) May 2, 2016 Minnesota
    Deactivated


    Its funny how, no corners need be cut for world class beer days from brewing. Sound brewing practices trump all. Meanwhile you have others trying to cut every corner they can, and it still takes longer than just doing it proper.:wink:
     
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  12. Brewday

    Brewday Initiate (0) Dec 25, 2015 New York

    What do you mean by this. BTW i saw your vids and that's some project you have going on.
     
  13. VikeMan

    VikeMan Pooh-Bah (2,901) Jul 12, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah

    He means that after 5 days in the fermenter, he transfers to a keg equipped with a spunding valve, where the beer reaches its final gravity and carbonates over a 2 day period.
     
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  14. Brewday

    Brewday Initiate (0) Dec 25, 2015 New York

    Ok. I guess there's different ways to do it. I've seen people spund start to end under different pressures.
     
  15. Ten_SeventySix_Brewhouse

    Ten_SeventySix_Brewhouse Initiate (0) Jul 20, 2016 Indiana

    As an update, I perceived a significant reduction in diacetyl after leaving the beer on the yeast cake for an additional week. I needed to free up my fermenter at that point, so I transferred it to a keg and pitched a starter of fresh yeast into it. I'm planning to leave that for another week, then lager it for a couple of weeks before filtering and carbonating. Hopefully it all works out.

    In order to avoid this situation in the future, I'm looking at an oxygenation kit. Would this help reduce diacetyl production, given that I've been relying on "shake aeration" up to this point? Also considering a 5L flask, but I may save the money and just step up my starters an extra time.
     
  16. OldBrewer

    OldBrewer Savant (1,199) Jan 13, 2016 Canada (ON)

    I broke down and purchased a three- as well as a five- liter Erlenmeyer flask for the starters. I used to do double or triple starters for lagers in the 2-liter flask, but it took too long, and there wasn't enough head space, so had to make 1-1/2 liter starters. The 2-liter flask seems almost useless for lager yeast starters. The 3-liter flask is much more practical for healthy yeast and has lots of head space and no need to reduce it to 2-1/2 liters. The 5-liter starter is better for yeast that has sat around for a few months.
     
  17. GreenKrusty101

    GreenKrusty101 Initiate (0) Dec 4, 2008 Nevada

    Have you tried any dry lager yeast (2 sachets) ? Much easier and plenty of yeast, imho
     
  18. OldBrewer

    OldBrewer Savant (1,199) Jan 13, 2016 Canada (ON)

    I use them as back-up in case the yeast doesn't start, and keep several packages on hand That happened to me earlier this year. Other than that. I haven't used them as a primary yeast source as I understand that they don't compare well to the liquid yeasts.
     
  19. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Grand Pooh-Bah (3,069) Dec 15, 2005 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah

    I have no personal experience with using Fermentis W-34/70 yeast but I have drunk a fellow homebrewer’s lagers that were fermented with this yeast and those beers were top notch.

    Cheers!

    @premierpro
     
  20. OldBrewer

    OldBrewer Savant (1,199) Jan 13, 2016 Canada (ON)

    Thanks, Jack. I might give it a try and compare it to the ones made with liquid yeast.
     
  21. harsley

    harsley Initiate (0) Jun 16, 2005 Massachusetts

    I've had diacetyl pop up in the keg when it was previously undetected. It cleared up after a couple weeks. I may have brought the keg to room temp for a few days.
     
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  22. GreenKrusty101

    GreenKrusty101 Initiate (0) Dec 4, 2008 Nevada

    Just because some can't taste it doesn't mean diacetyl is not present in detectable concentrations...easy insurance to do a d-rest.
     
  23. OldBrewer

    OldBrewer Savant (1,199) Jan 13, 2016 Canada (ON)

    According to Chris White in Yeast, if you crash your beer to lagering temperatures shortly after a rest (or whenever), you can get diacetyl later. A d-rest alone won't ensure that you will not have diacetyl later.
     
  24. TheBeerery

    TheBeerery Initiate (0) May 2, 2016 Minnesota
    Deactivated

    The problem with the Drest is that it causes more staling/oxidation, then just pitching the "proper" healthy amounts of yeast.
     
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  25. Ten_SeventySix_Brewhouse

    Ten_SeventySix_Brewhouse Initiate (0) Jul 20, 2016 Indiana

    Do you also brew ales? If so, do you use the same pitch rate for those as you do your lagers?
     
  26. GreenKrusty101

    GreenKrusty101 Initiate (0) Dec 4, 2008 Nevada

    "More" does not necessarily equal significant or detectable for normal shelf-life beers.
     
  27. Prep8611

    Prep8611 Initiate (0) Aug 22, 2014 New Jersey

    How much dry yeast would that be? 4 packs? I know you have stated that you don’t think dry yeast can do the job and after using 34/70 I tend to agree. I have used saflager s-189 (2 packs) but on a dark lager and noticed no negative effects such as diacetyl.
     
  28. TheBeerery

    TheBeerery Initiate (0) May 2, 2016 Minnesota
    Deactivated

    I do brew ales. I don't use the same pitch rate.

    Based on real science (no brulosophy), real measements, or assumption, or? Genuinely interested, as I ( using sensory analysis, and actual DO, etc measurements) see much different, but I am always open to new studies.

    Dry yeast pitch rate is determined by batch size, gravity and fermentation temperature, so I have no idea. Check out the yeast mfr guidlines. Lagers like to be pitched around 2.5.
     
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  29. Ten_SeventySix_Brewhouse

    Ten_SeventySix_Brewhouse Initiate (0) Jul 20, 2016 Indiana

    What would you consider a "proper" ale pitch rate, then? I usually aim for around 1.0, which Brewer's Friend considers "ale or high gravity ale," and is the middle option of their three suggested ale pitch rates. Based on the fact on your lager pitch rate is higher than even their highest recommendation for "high gravity lager" (2.0), I would assume your ale pitch rate is in excess of 1.25? I'm just reviewing my yeast pitching practices, and I'm concerned that I could see an improvement by pitching more yeast.
     
  30. TheBeerery

    TheBeerery Initiate (0) May 2, 2016 Minnesota
    Deactivated

    Ale pitches for me vary. But American ales are around 1-1.25. The key is healthy active yeast. Healthy active yeast means visible signs of fermentation in 6hrs or less. If you are a dissolved oxygen measurer that means 8ppm do at pitch and 0ppm do within an hour of pitch.
     
  31. Ten_SeventySix_Brewhouse

    Ten_SeventySix_Brewhouse Initiate (0) Jul 20, 2016 Indiana

    Thanks. Do you pitch starters at high krausen, or is cold crashing and decanting okay? I have longer lag times than that, but I'm hoping pure O2 alone will remedy that.
     
  32. OldBrewer

    OldBrewer Savant (1,199) Jan 13, 2016 Canada (ON)

    Well I did write to Chris White (founder of White Labs and one of the authors of Yeast: The Practical Guide to Beer Fermentation"), about some of the questions raised, and he wrote back last month. I then asked for some additional clarifications and heard back from him yesterday.

    Most of you will not like the answers that he provided, since it requires a LOT more time than most are willing to devote to fermentation/lagering, but here they are, along with my questions.

    1. How quickly can you raise the temperature of the lager to the diacetyl temperature range?

    Chris White: Most people do not have a way of heating a fermentor, so it happens slowly anyway. By starting the diacetyl rest around 1.020-1.025, the yeast are still creating heat which helps raise the temperature gradually.

    1.b I guess I wasn’t too clear in my question. Let’s say the fermenter is in a freezer with a temperature controller and that the fermenting wort is held at 48 F. Then you want to do a diacetly rest when the SG reaches about 1.020-1.025. Is it OK to take the fermenter right out of the freezer and into a room with a temperature (room temperature) approaching that of the diacetly rest (68-74 F)? In other words, is it OK to let the temperature rise naturally 20-26 F over the course of a day or two, or is that rate of a rise too much of a shock to the yeast?

    Chris White: YES,THAT IS WHAT MOST PEOPLE DO

    2. At what rate is the temperature lowered immediately after the diacetyl rest?

    Chris White: It is still best to go slowly. Traditionally it was lowered to 50-55, left there for 2 days, then lowered to below 40.

    2.b You mentioned in your book (page 115) that the temperature should be lowered at about 1 to 2 F (0.5 to 1 C) per day. Is that the rate used from the diacetyl rest to 50-55, or from 50-55 down to 40? Or is the same rate used from diacetyl rest all the way down to 40 F?

    Chris White: THAT IS ALWAYS A SAFE WAY TO CHANGE THE TEMPERATURE

    3. Once you reach 40 oF or slightly above, approximately how long should you leave it at that temperature before ‘crashing’ it to near freezing?

    Chris White: Everyone does it different- traditionally it was 90 days. Now 30 days is the longest norm.

    3.b Is that 30 days AFTER the beer has reached 40 F? In other words, if the diacetyl rest was 72 F, and then reduced 1-2 F per day, it would take 16-32 days to reach 40 F. Are you then suggesting that it stay at 40 F for an additional 30 days minimum (i.e. a total of 46-62 days) before even bringing it down to lagering temperature?

    Chris White: YES, AFTER REACHING 40F

    4. What would be the best time to rack the beer from the yeast sediment?

    Chris White: After the yeast settles, it does not do anything under the beer, it is the yeast still left in solution that does. So as soon after terminal gravity and yeast settles, rack it.
     
  33. VikeMan

    VikeMan Pooh-Bah (2,901) Jul 12, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah

    Implied (though not explicitly stated) in that answer is that 40F is a lagering temperature. I believe the good Doctor sort of ignored/missed the fact that you made a distinction between 40F and an even colder temperature, both of which are lagering temps. So it's not as if you have to wait an extra month before lagering.
     
  34. OldBrewer

    OldBrewer Savant (1,199) Jan 13, 2016 Canada (ON)

    I specifically mentioned the expression "before even bringing it down to lagering temperature" (I should have said "cold conditioning"), which he did not address or correct, if that was his intention. His book also mentions leaving it just above 40 F before bringing it down to near freezing for lagering, suggesting that the yeast is still working above 40 F but not below it. I agree that he's not to clear on his meaning. Read pages 114-115.
     
    #74 OldBrewer, Jul 26, 2018
    Last edited: Jul 26, 2018
  35. VikeMan

    VikeMan Pooh-Bah (2,901) Jul 12, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah

    So are we talking about 40F or some temperature "just above" 40F? At any rate, I promise you can make excellent, award winning lagers that cold condition at 40F (and never go lower). Lower temps can expedite the settling of polyphenol/protein aggregates, but it happens at 40 as well.
     
  36. OldBrewer

    OldBrewer Savant (1,199) Jan 13, 2016 Canada (ON)

    He says: "...very little happens once you take the yeast below 40 F (4 C). If you want the yeast to be active and to carry on reduction of fermentation by-products, it happens much faster at higher temperatures. As far as yeast activity goes, crashing the temperature or lowering it slowly makes little flavor difference if you are dropping the beer below 40 F (4 C)."

    Further along, he says: "After a few days (of slowly dropping the temperature) the beer has reached a temperature close to 40 F (4 C) and there are still some fermentable sugars remaining, about 1 to 2 P. "
     
  37. TheBeerery

    TheBeerery Initiate (0) May 2, 2016 Minnesota
    Deactivated

    Yes Thats classic german cold fermentation ( Kunze, Narziss).. well not the D-rest part but the slowly lowering to 40 with extract. You have to be a yeast whisperer though. Which is why I Ferment at 45 and leave it there until FG ( 7 days), I'll take the flavor, and head retention hit, to not end up with a beer 8
    points from FG.
     
  38. honkey

    honkey Maven (1,314) Aug 28, 2010 Arizona
    Trader

    FWIW, Technology Brewing and Malting (Siebel textbook) recommends a lagering temperature of -1 or -2 degrees Celsius.

    The fermentation/lagering process described in the book is to pitch at 5-6 Degrees C and gradually let the temperature rise over the first 3 days, hold steady at maximum temperature (8.5 Degrees C) for 2 days, then slowly bring it down again to the original pitching temperature for the next three days. Day 8 should be the day that terminal gravity is reached. They then mention a few ways to deal with transferring. The most common way I learned was to transfer to lager tanks with 1% of the fermentable extract remaining, which is usually the final day of active fermentation. The beer is not dropped to the lager temperature until diacetyl has been broken down.
     
  39. Ten_SeventySix_Brewhouse

    Ten_SeventySix_Brewhouse Initiate (0) Jul 20, 2016 Indiana

    I assume this is the schedule you follow, then? If so, I may have to adopt it as well. I haven't detected any issues with your lagers.
     
  40. honkey

    honkey Maven (1,314) Aug 28, 2010 Arizona
    Trader

    It is similar. Our lager yeast has a fermententatipn range a little warmer than most strains and it is known for producing low levels of diacetyl, but it does produce a lot of sulfur. Instead of transferring to lager tanks for spunding, I spund in the fermenter and the last bit of sulfur gets forced out when I transfer to the lager tank.
     
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