Germany Donauradweg/Danube bike path

Discussion in 'Europe' started by nloetz, Jan 2, 2013.

  1. nloetz

    nloetz Jun 2, 2005 Austria

    Hey, all:

    I'm putting together a bike trip that will go along the Danube river, and I'm wondering if anyone has any suggestions for beer-related tourism. I'm already planning to visit the Schneider-Weisse brewery, Weltenbug Abbey brewery, and Kuchlbauers Bierwelt. I'm also interested in doing some other hop farming related stops in the Hallertau region, but I'm not sure what to do while I'm there.

    Thanks for the help!
  2. Stahlsturm

    Stahlsturm Mar 21, 2005 Germany

    That bikepath passes straight through Regensburg so I suggest you visit the 5 breweries here along with all the other sights.

    Just before Regensburg you'll pass through a small village called Oberndorf where you'll find the Berghammer brewery. They have a nice beer garden out for bikers.

    In Kelheim there's also another brewery called Frischeisen although that may be on the wrong side of the river for a biker.
  3. cu29

    cu29 Sep 26, 2005 Wisconsin

    Is there bus or train service from Regensburg to Oberndorf??
  4. nloetz

    nloetz Jun 2, 2005 Austria

    I'll be staying in Kelheim the night before that, so by the time I get to Regensburg it will still be pretty early for drinking. Do you have any suggestions for bottled beers that I should pick up for drinking later?
  5. nloetz

    nloetz Jun 2, 2005 Austria

    Also, it sounds like the wife wants to join in on this trip now. I'm not quite sure if she has the stamina for the rides though. Do you know if there are frequent ferries along the danube that she could ride if she gets tired?
  6. Stahlsturm

    Stahlsturm Mar 21, 2005 Germany

    There are some (very rare) ferries across the river but none along it. There are ships travelling from Weltenburg into Kelheim and back and also ships that go from Regensburg (Starter point is from across the "Eiserne Steg") down to the Walhalla in Donaustauf. There may be more further up and down the river but I'm not aware of those.
  7. Stahlsturm

    Stahlsturm Mar 21, 2005 Germany

    Then take a slow day and visit Regensburg. It's worth it :)
  8. nloetz

    nloetz Jun 2, 2005 Austria

    It looks like it would be pretty easy for her to pop on a train and ride to the next village without me if she wanted to. I imagine that the trains run regularly enough and have space for bikes.

    Have you ever been to the Weltenburg Brewery? I'll probably have a few beers there and then take advantage of that ferry to Kelheim so that I don't have to peddle drunk to the pension.
  9. nloetz

    nloetz Jun 2, 2005 Austria

    You can check the webpage and see if they offer something. I tried searching for you, but it gave a lot of options for an Oberndorf stop and I didn't know which one to choose.
  10. Stahlsturm

    Stahlsturm Mar 21, 2005 Germany

    I think there's a bus every several hours...
    goindownsouth likes this.
  11. goindownsouth

    goindownsouth Jun 21, 2002 Pennsylvania

    ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^-------------- This. Absolutely this.
  12. nloetz

    nloetz Jun 2, 2005 Austria

    You guys are probably right. I'll look at the itenerary again tonight and see if I can work more time in for Regensburg.
  13. nloetz

    nloetz Jun 2, 2005 Austria

    This seems to be the thread for people with crests in their avatars.
    einhorn and Gutes_Bier like this.
  14. Stahlsturm

    Stahlsturm Mar 21, 2005 Germany

    You would not regret it :)

    It's actually a flag (that of the Oberpfalz, the Upper Palatinate) in my case :)
  15. FrankenBier

    FrankenBier Feb 4, 2003 California

    I rode along the Danube from Regensburg to Vienna last summer (as part of a longer ride -- we started in Dunkirk!) Regensburg was clearly the beer highlight of the Danube part. Other than Passau, we didn't really have any interesting beer until we got to Vienna. We passed by Engelhartszell two days after their first release so bad timing on our part.

    On a previous ride (2008) I did the Fünf Flüsse Radweg and have some very nice beers in Oberndorf at Berghammer, so I can second that recommendation.
    nloetz likes this.
  16. nloetz

    nloetz Jun 2, 2005 Austria

    The Fünf Flüsse Radweg looks nice, but I don't have time for all of that this trip. Maybe that's something I could do some other time when we go to visit the grandparents. Maybe sometime around harvest so I could venture more into Hallertau and see the hop crop come in. That could be nice. :)

    What is there to drink in Passau?
  17. drtth

    drtth Nov 25, 2007 Pennsylvania

    Innstadt has a schwarze bier and a neues helles that are both worth a try.
  18. FrankenBier

    FrankenBier Feb 4, 2003 California

    The Fünf Flüsse is a nice beer and bike tour. The "official" schedule is 5 nights but you could do it easily in 4 -- but you'd miss some beer. Our overnights were in Berching, Kelheim, Regensburg and Amberg. The Amberg-Nürnberg stretch has some hills but the rest is fairly flat. Some pics here

    Passau was a bit of a disappointment as a Scottish beer friend and moved there years ago and raved about the beers (so we were oversold :) ). Hacklberg was fine, Innstadt was disappointing (they were closest to our hotel). As we rode in to Passau we stopped at a place called Stelzhof that had a nice selection of beers. I remember Gütsbräu and Hacklbräu on draft and Unertl Dinkel Weisse and others I'm sure. That part of the trip is here.
  19. Gutes_Bier

    Gutes_Bier Jul 31, 2011 Germany

    :eek: Am I reading this right? You rode a bike from Dunkirk to Vienna?! Wow, I tip my hat to you.
  20. cu29

    cu29 Sep 26, 2005 Wisconsin

    I have actually enjoyed Passau on a couple of visits. It is a very pretty town, and it has 4 of its own breweries: Hacklberg (nice bräustüberl and biergarten), Löwenbrauerei, Innstadt (I would recommend the Bayerischer Löwe restaurant and biergarten ), and way up on the hill, even above Hacklberg, is Weizenbierbrauerei Andorfer with their attractive biergarten and restaurant.

    And if that is not enough to keep you happy, I'd suggest the 15 minute train ride to Schärding Austria which has two breweries, Baumgartner and Kapsreiter. You will walk (or bike) past both breweries on the way in to town from the train station. The station itself is a bit of a walk in to town. The brewery taps, which are not at their respective breweries, are very easy to spot on your way into the town. Kapsreiter Bräustuberl for Kapsreiter, and Wirsthaus zur Bums'n for Baumgartner. As a bonus, the town is quite picturesque with many brightly painted buildings.

    A second nearby beer option would be to take another 15 minute train ride from Passau to Vilshofen to visit the Wolferstetter brewery. Their keller restaurant was closed the day we stopped by, but we were directed down a tunnel stairway from the brewery to the town's main street, where the Gasthof Wolferstetterbräu was open and welcoming. (I had asked to buy a beer glass from them, and was told they did not sell them. Before we left, the waitress GAVE me a wrapped glass. Free of charge. Nice.)

    From Vilshofen, you should make your way to Aldersbach to visit the Aldersbacher brewery. We took a cab for Euro 18,00. Their Bräustüberl has a helles from the wood barrel which is so very drinkable. I also enjoyed their dunkel and weiss. Plus they have a bier museum on the grounds, as well as a gift shop.

    Below are a couple links to youtube for some video I posted from the Aldersbacher Bräustüberl.

    pt 1
    pt 2

    I am a bit too lazy tonight to post links for all of the above, but here are a couple.....

    nloetz likes this.
  21. FrankenBier

    FrankenBier Feb 4, 2003 California

    Yep. On a folding bike (Bike Friday) Of course it took about a month. We averaged about 50 miles a day, with lots of beer stops. Total distance was just under 1200 miles.
  22. FrankenBier

    FrankenBier Feb 4, 2003 California

    Bad choice of words on my part. Passau seemed very nice and there was nothing wrong with the beer, just it had been built up a little more than it produced. Or maybe we just caught them on a bad day :) Beer-wise though, I would rather visit Regensburg if I had to choose.

    I did have the Kapsreiter beer a couple of times on the trip and it was quite nice. We stopped in Vilshofen on our way to Passau and it was hard to limit ourselves (your 15 minute train ride was a bit longer on a bike, especially if you've had more than a couple :) )
    cu29 likes this.
  23. nloetz

    nloetz Jun 2, 2005 Austria

    So I worked a night in Regensburg into the schedule, but I don't think I'll be able to visit all five of the breweries. I'm going to be on the bike again the next day, so I can't be too hung over. Which are your top three beer locations there in the city?
    We're getting ready to start the trip in a couple of weeks now!
  24. nloetz

    nloetz Jun 2, 2005 Austria

    Great story! I booked a night at their Gasthof, so I can get trashed there and just roll upstairs and go to sleep. ;)
  25. Stahlsturm

    Stahlsturm Mar 21, 2005 Germany

    If you only drink one at each place it can be done :) When will you be here ? And where will you be staying ?
  26. nloetz

    nloetz Jun 2, 2005 Austria

    If I remember right, we plan to be there on the night of the 28th. We are staying at some pension in the middle of the old city. I can't remember the name of it off of the top of my head. I have no idea how late it will be by the time we get there and I don't really want to drink more than a couple of beers since I'll be doing a long ride the next day, so I really doubt I'll be able to visit more than one or two of the breweries. You don't have a favorite?
  27. Stahlsturm

    Stahlsturm Mar 21, 2005 Germany

    You wouldn't make a father pick his favourite child either, would you ? :) I can pre-select if you tell me if you are a hophead or not.
  28. nloetz

    nloetz Jun 2, 2005 Austria

    Man, that was a cold bike ride. It snowed a lot and the winds were right in my face the whole time. I only managed to bike about half of the trip and I took a train for the rest of it. Typically it should have been like 10°C this time of year, but it was bitter cold! On the plus side, the cold forced me in doors a lot and I managed to visit 16 breweries in one week. Most of what I had was decent, but the hopfenwiesen at Schneider & Sohn was amazing. It tasted very fresh and crisp!

    The Report:

    Blanks in Zweifaltendorf -- Had a beer and potato pancake there at 10:30am. Was worried that the elderly woman working there would have found it strange that I was drinking so early in the day, but she also poured one for herself. I imagine that she was the brewmaster's wife. Later on the brewmaster came in and checked on how I was doing. Perfect place to stop if doing the bike trip.

    Ehingen hosts four breweries if you count Berg as a part of the city. All were worth a visit. Rößle had a sort of a bar, but I'm not sure if they regularly have customers. I was the only person there, and it felt more like I was just hanging out in their work/living space. The brewmaster's wife worked on paperwork and he was in and out of the room a lot. Their dog barked at me every time I made a move, but it was harmless. They were very friendly people! Schwanen might be a better place to get cozy and have dinner. I had a nice Zwiebelrostbraten there.

    Günzberg was a pretty city, but I was a little let down by the beer. One of the breweries was closed, and it ends up that Brauerei zur Münz doesn't actually brew their own beer.

    Took a detour when the river went through Halertau and rode south a bit into Abensberg. The Hundertwasser designed Kuchlbauer brewery was cool to look at and they had a few creative beers. On the trip there, I saw a lot of hop fields but it was too early in the season to see the actual plants. While we rode around the area, I noticed that we were on bike route called the Hopfentour (hop tour). I found some information about it and some maps of the breweries etc. that it goes by. Maybe I'll upload a pic of the map later if anyone is interested.

    Kloster Weltenberg was really pretty abby with some nice beer. You can take a boat from there to Kelheim which hosts Schneider & Sohn and Freischeisen. As I wrote earlier, the Schneider & Sohn was amazing. I asked if they had the Mein Sauvin, but the waitress had no clue what I was talking about.

    While in Regensberg, it was really cold and the wife's knee was hurting so we managed to visit all five breweries. Spital had amazing regional food with very large portions and a local vibe. Kneitinger was packed full of people on a week night and most people were turning around and leaving instead of waiting for a space to sit. Fürstliche was beautiful and one of my favorites of the trip for it's design. The Weissbrauhaus had good regional food. Had a beer at Bischofshof am Dom, but that's not where they make the beer. The place was a little too upper class for us and we got out of there as quickly as possible.

    Stayed at the Wolferstetter in Vilshofen. They were very nice people and we had a nice time drinking there.

    Passau was interesting, but we didn't make it everywhere. I'll have to go back to get a better impression.

    I'm sure there are a number of places I've left out, but these were the highlights. If any of you are thinking about doing the bike path, feel free to ask me a question. I have a subscription to this thread, so I'll notice any posts.
    cu29, Bierman9, Stahlsturm and 2 others like this.
  29. nloetz

    nloetz Jun 2, 2005 Austria

    We ended up staying the night there, and they also gave us a free glass after I asked to buy one. The waitress seemed surprised by the question, so I suppose they don't get a lot of people asking. By the end of this trip, I was pulling 16 glasses in the wagon I have connected to the back of my bike.
    cu29, boddhitree and Gutes_Bier like this.
  30. Stahlsturm

    Stahlsturm Mar 21, 2005 Germany

    Glad you enjoyed Regensburg. You should've given me a holler though and I would've shown you the not so uppity but slightly out of the old town new brewpub of Bischhofshof.
  31. nloetz

    nloetz Jun 2, 2005 Austria

    Yea that would have been cool, but I didn't think it would play out like this. I thought that we would only grab a quick beer at one of the breweries, go to bed and then spend just a little time walking the city in the morning before we left. We ended up spending the whole day there and we just took the bikes on the train to our next destination.

    They told us at Bischofshof that there was another place about 40 min walk from there, but by that time we were a few beers in and we didn't feel much like walking all that way in the cold.
  32. Gutes_Bier

    Gutes_Bier Jul 31, 2011 Germany

    Thank you for that trip report, that was a great read. Sorry the weather didn't cooperate for you (or did it?). I agree on the Hopfenweizen, that's a delicious beer.
    nloetz likes this.
  33. Stahlsturm

    Stahlsturm Mar 21, 2005 Germany

    You could've hopped on the Line 1 bus in front of the Kneitinger and been there in 5 minutes. Oh well, next time maybe :)
  34. nloetz

    nloetz Jun 2, 2005 Austria

    It slowed me down a bit, but I think I still managed to ride 300k of the 600k I had planned.
    Gutes_Bier likes this.
  35. herrburgess

    herrburgess Nov 4, 2009 South Carolina
    Beer Trader

    I, personally, am a bigger advocate of settling in than of sampling. ;) I applaud your choice.
  36. boddhitree

    boddhitree Apr 13, 2008 Germany

    You're not the only one in Germany lamenting that fact that winter hasn't let up. The whole country seems to be talking of nothing else. If there's one thing Germans like to do, it's complain and the weather has been complaint #1. (When people ask me why I moved to Germany, I say "for the wonderful weather, of course." Usually, they look simply dumfounded... deadpan sarcasm and irony are not one of German's strengths.) Spring should arrive for one day next Saturday, where it's supposed to be sunny AND get into the upper 19 C (60s F). Practically summer weather here.

    Basically, put up with the goddamn weather and don't complain, that's my motto, after all, who comes here for the weather? Bringing this back to beer... ever noticed all the traditional "beer nations" all have utter horrible weather year-round? Germany, Czech, Belgium/Holland, Britain, Ireland. It's not a coincidence that sunny climes traditionally are wine-centric, eh? Please discuss. o_O
    nloetz likes this.
  37. nloetz

    nloetz Jun 2, 2005 Austria

    Actually I live in Vienna now, but I can't figure out how to change my location. :p
  38. Stahlsturm

    Stahlsturm Mar 21, 2005 Germany

    Grapes need sun to grow ? :D
  39. cu29

    cu29 Sep 26, 2005 Wisconsin

    It's so cool to be on the receiving end of such hospitality. Makes for a fond memory. And a cool looking glass! ;)

    Great trip report, by the way. I agree with Ehingen being a worthwhile beer stop. Too bad a fifth area brewery closed (Adler/Föhr in Risstissen). Ehingen promotes itself as a Bierkulturstadt:,Lde:Bierkulturstadt:Brauereien.html
    Some of their logo items still advertise 5 breweries.

    Can you throw in a few beer pics? (I myself still haven't figured out how to post pics here).
  • About Us

    Your go-to website for beer (since 1996), publishers of BeerAdvocate magazine (since 2006) and hosts of world-class beer events (since 2003). Respect Beer.
  • Extreme Beer Fest® Cometh

    February 3-4, 2017. Boston, Mass. Limited tickets available. Prepare for epicness.

    Learn More
  • Free Trial Subscription

    Reside in the US? Interested in a free 1-month trial subscription to the print edition of BeerAdvocate magazine?

    Yes! Sign Me Up!