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Krausen Ring Falling in to Beer

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by alysmith4, Jan 29, 2013.

  1. alysmith4

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    I'm about three weeks into brewing my first beer, and in the last week I've noticed the krausen ring has sort of "dropped" in to the beer. Like if I look at the side of the carboy, there's this floating ring just below the surface of the beer (and then a normal-looking ring about an inch above). Also, there seems to be quite a bit of floating debris in the beer that looks like krausen particulate.

    Is there anything I can do to filter it out? I considered cold-crashing the beer, but I don't have the space in my fridge and don't think the temp outside would be consistent enough. Any other suggestions would be great.
     
  2. AlCaponeJunior

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    Ignore it. You will be fine.

    You can if you like put a SANITIZED paint strainer bag or muslin grain bag around the bottom of your auto-siphon when you bottle. Make sure to sanitize the rubber band too if you do this. That helps filter out any extra trub particles. There will probably be some debris in your beers tho, don't worry about it. You will cold crash them when you put them in the fridge after bottle conditioning is complete. If you pour carefully, not much, if any will get into your glass.
     
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  3. WickedSluggy

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    That don't mean a thing. Most will settle. Very little is going to end up getting in the bottles.

    Cold crashing is a good idea. Cool it the best you can, but in the scope of things, it's not all that critical. Eventually you'll be cold conditioning the bottles themselves. Any sediment that gets in the bottles will fall to the bottom of the bottle and join the yeast sediment.
     
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  4. rocdoc1

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    Most of it will stay in the bottom of the fermenter, but some will get into the bottling bucket. Very little of that will get into the bottles.
     
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  5. darknova306

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    That stuff will settle out over time. You can speed it up by lightly jostling the carboy. You should immediately notice some of the bigger particulates starting to sink. Nothing to really worry about, in my experience.

    Just make sure to siphon from above the yeast/trub cake at the bottom when you rack to the bottling bucket or keg.
     
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  6. HerbMeowing

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    Despite what others have said...here's the truth: your batch is ruined.

    The best thing to do now is let the fermentation run its course...package it as you would normally...then ship all of it post-paid to me for safe...discrete disposal.
     
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  7. alysmith4

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    Haha, thanks for the laugh.
     
  8. alysmith4

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    You mentioned "siphoning." Well.. let me say that that process c o m p l e t e l y and t o t a l l y sucks. I tried my damnest to get the siphon (albeit old-school tube/cane method) to start - and, of course, it wouldn't. Actually, yes it would - assuming the tube was aimed at the floor as opposed to the bottle, running all over the kitchen floor and my Vans.

    So (gasp!), I ended up pouring the beer into the bottles, and will see what lovely (sour) brew awaits this clumsy oxygenizing technique.

    Siighh..
     
  9. GreenKrusty101

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    Is this the first Pale Ale? You got to be the only noob/rookie to let it go 3 week in the primary without bottling yet. You are going to make a fine homebrewer with all that patience.

    Edit: As long as you work on your siphoning technique : )
     
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  10. good_gracious

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    Two words that will lead to salvation: AUTO SIPHON
     
  11. PortLargo

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    To put your mind at ease while aging, try a Smuttynose Finest Kind. Even with a slow pour it looks like a "dust storm" in your glass. All sorts of hops, sediment, yeast, (pieces of old-timers?) floating around and it is great. Also, ditto on the auto siphon.
     
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  12. darknova306

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    This times a billion. Probably the best $15 purchase I've ever made for homebrewing. Auto siphons are the best and are very, very, very highly recommended.
     
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  13. good_gracious

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    Actually I recommended the auto siphon at the wrong time. For bottling its better to use a bottling wand. All you need is a plastic bucket with a spigot in the side (as close to the bottom as possible), with a ~2-6" hose connected to the bottling wand. This thing is SO easy to use, increases headspace repeatability and decreases the likelihood of aerating your beer. Plus all the parts I just described are very inexpensive.

    Use the auto siphon for all beer moving activities other than bottling.
     
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  14. AlCaponeJunior

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    +1

    OP: Whatever you are doing right now, STOP. Go get an auto-siphon. Then come back and tell us how easy it was to siphon your beer.

    And a bottling wand if you don't already have one.
     
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  15. pweis909

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    +1 bottle wand.

    And attach the wand to a bottling bucket so you have gravity feed. Trying to bottle from a siphon is a nightmare.
     
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  16. SFACRKnight

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    I tried to bottle with my racking cane and bottle wand. Don't ever do it. Go to the lhbs or northern brewer and order up a bottling bucket. Best five bucks I ever spent. Now I have a spare sanitization bucket whenever. Even when my pipeline is up and going strong I still have either my bottling bucket open for sanitizing or my primary open as I always rack to secondary for dryhopping and what not.
     
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  17. rlcoffey

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    A recommend kegging. Bottles suck.
     
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  18. leedorham

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  19. alysmith4

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    Yes, I have one on the way :)
     
  20. alysmith4

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    I bought one for $9, I think. Seems like a steal for what it does!
     
  21. alysmith4

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    Yes, I got a bottling wand with a spring tip. I'm not certain it's the right size for the spigot/hose, but I'm sure I could finagle it with some extra tubing, etc.
     
  22. alysmith4

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    Yeah, I'll have all the "proper" equipment in a few more days, but part of me wanted to do it the old school way so that a) I have a better understanding of the physics of it all and b) I really appreciate having equipment that makes life easier.
     
  23. alysmith4

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    Yes, I ordered a bottling bucket with spigot, and ordered a lid as well in case I'd like to use it as a secondary fermenter.
     
  24. SFACRKnight

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    I wouldn't use it to ferment simply because there are so many nooks and crannies around the spigot for nasties to hide in.
     
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  25. good_gracious

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    While I agree there are more surfaces on which bugs can hide, the spigots can (and should) be removed and cleaned separately each time. Would it be that big of an issue if you're thorough?

    <thread jack> I've been recently considering adding a spigot to my primary fermentation bucket as a means of satisfying my perpetual desire for gravity data. I'm thinking I could pop one right in the middle and be able to access the wort/beer below the krausen and above the trub. Then I'd be able to take gravity readings without introducing O2 (or fussing with the ridiculous top every time). I'd to study the effect of ferm temp, pitch rate, oxygenation, starter prep, etc affect the fermentation progression. I'm picturing an obscene quantity of attenuation curves in my mind.... </thread jack>
     
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  26. pweis909

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    Yep. A short piece of tube that can fit on both your spigot and the wand. I think mine has a 1/4th inch inner diameter. I keep it on the wand permanently. To get it on the spigot, it helps to make it pliable by heating. I boil a small amount of water (for heat and to keep sanitary) and dip the tubing in the the hot water. Once it softens, it goes on easily.
     
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  27. GreenKrusty101

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    My bottling bucket is now 1 of my 2 sour primary buckets. After this weekend ALL my primary fermentation buckets will have spigots. Don't know why I waited this long to convert them all. Racking a beer is soooo much easier and the potential for oxygen introduction is almost negligible.

    Just be sure to pour off any trub/crap into a cup before bottling kegging. Low floc yeasts may result in a cup wasted instead of the normal 1/2 cup. If you wait 3 weeks to rack from primary even low floccing yeasts are no problem if you Xport gently...and as an avowed hophead my trub is probably thicker than most : )

    Sanitation is also a non-issue if you remove the spigots and soak in sanitizer...never even used soap on mine and have never (knock on wood) had an infection.
     
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  28. SFACRKnight

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    I also soak my bottles in pbw and clean them with a brush the night before I bottle, then I let them soak in star san for a few hours, and then put them on a sanitized bottle tree minutes before bottling. And yes, if I bottle an uneven number of bottles I get a dark feeling that the world will end... why do you ask? ;)
     
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  29. darknova306

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    Can you ferment/secondary in a bottling bucket with a spigot? Yes. My advice in such a case would be to be uber anal about your sanitation. I know plenty of folks that have done it with zero issues.
     
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  30. darknova306

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    Seriously? Dammit. Pardon me, I need to go rage at a store clerk... :p
     
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  31. JimSmetana

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    Late to the thread but I am 2 weeks (approx) from my first bottling.

    Can someone explain the purpose and method of "Cold Crashing" ?

    Thanks in advance:D
     
  32. PortLargo

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    To improve clarity and taste of the beer, aka cold conditioning.

    http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter8-3.html

    Easiest to do if you have a fridge big enough for your carboy/keg, typically temps in the mid 30s.
     
  33. JimSmetana

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    Do you do this right before bottling?
    How about a garage in the 40's??
     
  34. PortLargo

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    Do you do this right before bottling?

    Yes, you want to make sure fermentation is complete. The yeast has stopped working, so you want to put them to sleep, have them settle to the bottom, then rack off the top. Of course you will do the bottle conditioning at room temp so the yeasties can finish their job.

    How about a garage in the 40's??

    This seems a little high, but will defer to someone with more experience here.
     
  35. alysmith4

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    Finally got to try this batch, and sure enough, it was super sour. The top nearly blew off when I opened too.

    Oh well. At least I still have some HopSlam and Nugget Nectar to console me :)
     
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