NEIPA recipe critique

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by primrose54, Feb 22, 2019.

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  1. primrose54

    primrose54 Initiate (0) Apr 7, 2009 Ohio

    Bath size - 6 gallons
    O.G. 1.075 (estimated)
    F. G. 1.015 (estimated)

    Water:
    Kirkland water bottles + 2 tsp calcium chloride per 5 gallons

    Grains
    13lbs 2 row (74.3%)
    1.5 Carapils (8.6%)
    3 lbs flaked oats (17.1%)

    Mash at 1.33 quarts per pound at 152 degrees

    Hops
    0.5 Cenntennial @ 60
    2 ounces citra @ 0
    2 ounces Galaxy @ 0
    1 ounce Armarillo @ 0
    2 ounces citra whirlpools (160 degrees for 30)
    2 ounces galaxy whirlpool (160 degrees for 30)
    1 ounce Armarillo whirlpool (160 degrees for 30)

    Chill and pitch .5L of WL066 London Fog Ale yeast

    Dry hop day 5
    3 ounces citra
    3 ounces galaxy
    1 ounce Armarillo

    Dry hop day 10
    1 ounce citra
    1 ounce galaxy

    Keg after 16 days

    Note* I have other hops (simcoe and Idaho 7 along with a lot more citra and galaxy)
     
  2. GreenKrusty101

    GreenKrusty101 Initiate (0) Dec 4, 2008 Nevada

    Not sure I'd take a bath in this...but it does look extremely delicious :slight_smile: ...not sure I'd bother with the CaCl.
     
  3. Jesse14

    Jesse14 Initiate (182) Jul 21, 2011 Massachusetts

    Double check your Mash pH. Seems like it might be a little high. I shoot for 5.3 or even 5.2. That yeast must be really fresh too if 0.5L of yeast starter will chew up a 1.075 OG. I’m usually around a liter. Last thing I would consider is tightening up the dry hop schedule. I like to be done in 7-10 days max. You can get 2-3 rounds of hopping in and a cold crash by then.
     
  4. StupidlyBrave

    StupidlyBrave Initiate (74) Jan 2, 2009 Pennsylvania

    I think your first dry hop is too late. You should be looking to do this dry hop while fermentation is quite active, IMHO.

    I usually need to clean out/replace my blowoff tube at 24-36hr (every single time with Conan or London Ale III is a mess for me). That is probably a good time for the first dry hop. I'm not certain everyone agrees on the effects of biotransformation, but you will be introducing oxygen when you dry hop and it is less of an issue during active fermentation. When I make a NEIPA, I really want it finished in 3 weeks or so. My personal belief is that no beer style has a shorter life after packaging than NEIPA. My son in law is eager to help me with my three week goal.

    Also, are you using distilled water or mineral water? If I were you, I'd probably try to build a profile out of distilled. I build on my tap water, adding about 1/4 tsp gypsum and 1 tsp calcium chloride to get a ratio of 150:70. Some recommend 200:100, but I'm a little imprecise in my measurements at the moment. Also, I'm adding 5ml lactic acid with a PH goal of 5.3 in my mash.

    Here is a good writeup on NEIPA water profiles: http://scottjanish.com/chasing-mouthfeel-softness/

    Is WLP066 the same strain as London Ale III? If so, I'd like to try it as White Labs is easier for me to obtain than Wyeast.
     
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  5. wasatchback

    wasatchback Devotee (412) Jan 12, 2014 Tajikistan
    Trader

    I disagree with most of the above...

    When using US 2 row you don’t need all the high protein adjuncts, there’s already piles of protein in US 2 row. If you feel like using some I’d max it out at 5%.

    I would reverse your dry hop schedule. You don’t want to add a ton of hops during active fermentation. At peak activity you will not only blow off almost all the aromatics but you run the risk of increasing yeast death and hence a bunch of mercaptans in your beer. I don’t like the smell of rotting fruit/veggies, others might If you want to add dry hops during fermentation add the smaller amount at the tail end (1* Plato to go) of fermentation. Leave them until D-rest is done, cool to 55 for a day, pull as much yeast and hops as possible out of the beer then add the larger amount of dry hops and leave the beer with head pressure from 60-63 for 4-6 days. Then crash cool for two days and transfer again with head pressure.

    I wouldn’t add just CaCl either. I don’t know how much that is in terms of PPM but elevated levels of Cl can clash with elevated levels of Ca. I’d use a combo of gypsum and CaCl to get your Ca levels to around 75 then add some NaCl to elevate your Cl levels a little higher.

    This should be an 18-21 day beer min, the best commercial ones are. If you like the taste of chewing on hops you can try to make them faster but personally I don’t enjoy that. If you do a good job mitigating Oxygen the beer shouldn’t fade for more than a month in the keg.
     
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  6. Jesse14

    Jesse14 Initiate (182) Jul 21, 2011 Massachusetts

    You have some good insight and advice but the cat can be skinned in different ways. I have turned around many a good IPA with 6 oz of dry hops in the fermenter for less than 10 days. I then condition in the leg at a set psi for another 7-10 and it’s ready to drink. In other words, I’ve never used any of your methods mentioned but my IPAs have fared well.
     
  7. spersichilli

    spersichilli Aspirant (293) Apr 26, 2018 California
    Trader

    Yup 66 is London fog which is supposed to be the 1318 equivalent. Agree with adding gypsum and cacl and building from distilled. I adjust for mash PH by just adding about 2% acid malt and that usually works out for me.
     
  8. wasatchback

    wasatchback Devotee (412) Jan 12, 2014 Tajikistan
    Trader

    If you haven’t tried how do you know that there couldn’t possibly be a better way?

    I’ve done tons and tons with both methods, probably over 100 different brews and this method comes closest to the best of the best I’ve had of this “style” of beer. Lately I haven’t even been adding any dry hops until 4 days after fermentation is complete. But I’m not totally set on this.

    No wheat, no oats, minimal CaCl, tons of hops on the kettle, no dry hopping during fermentation and the beers are full, soft, with pillowy heads, fruit forward, and permanent haze stability.
     
  9. wasatchback

    wasatchback Devotee (412) Jan 12, 2014 Tajikistan
    Trader

    Definitely not the same strain of yeast however. Flocculation and attenuation specs are quite different. You want/need a yeast that floccs well. The goal is minimal yeast in suspension.
     
  10. Jesse14

    Jesse14 Initiate (182) Jul 21, 2011 Massachusetts

    This proves my point. I have done all of those and achieved the same perceived results. I’ve won local comps with those methods. It’s a pretty subjective hobby we are all in. I was just trying to keep the door open for experimentation with many techniques.

    I’m open to try some of yours. What’s great is knowing I have something dialed in already that I like. Especially with NEIPA, there are many brewers out there getting great results.
     
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