Spare Ingredients - help us build a beer!

Another thought on hops. Look at the Averagely Perfect American IPA recipe in the recipe database and hop similarly. I seem to recall that uses simcoe, centennial, Columbus, and cascade. Use sugar, about a pound, to boost the gravity to about the same level as that recipe. It is a decidedly old school west coast type of IPA

 

@pweis909 befor I knew what diacetyl was I tossed 7 batches all due to that yeast. Absolutely un drinkable. s-05 or notty for me!

 

@Hop-Droppen-Roll you'll notice our opinions are all over the board on crystal malts. Some think an ounce will ruin your beer, but most think they are fine, and sometimes complimentary, but you need to use restraint in how much you use.

If you are going the Munich malt route, you probably have access to Munich LME. That is the easiest way to go. If you want to use Munich malt grain, however, it is a base malt and cannot be steeped like crystal. It can be steeped, but you must maintain a constant temperature (around 155) and a minimum length of time (around 30 minutes).

 

Step 1 throw out Bry97

 

I would steep as much Vienna as you can, use all the lme add all the simcoe at flame out and Dryhop with 2 oz citra and 2 oz simcoe. And us5 yeast is my dry preferred dry yeast

 

Agree completely - don't go crazy with crystal on an IPA. We are talking 3% or so for depth of flavor. (Assuming a light crystal C20/C40).

OP - If you follow the process above for "steeping" Munich, you are really mini-mashing, which is a nice step up from extract brewing.

If you want to stay extract + grain, consider CaraMunich or CaraVienne which can be steeped.

 

No your roasted (ie chocolate) malts are also steepable.

 

Here is a quick workup

5 Gallons

6lb Pilsen LME
3lb Munich DME
8oz CaraVienne

US-05

= ABV 7.27%
SRM 6.84

So you wouldn't be too dark at all.

 

Here is a primer on grains and what can be steeped vs mashed

http://howtobrew.com/book/section-2/what-is-malted-grain/malt-types-and-usages

 

As long as you know each grain mashed or steeped will give a separate color,taste ,scent, mouth feel and abv addition to your beer.

 

L stands for Lovibond. Its a rating of how dark the malt is. You are likely buying a pound unless otherwise noted.

 

As @scottakelly said - L stands for lovibond not liters. The link you sent is for pounds of grain. The place I order from carries it cheaper- www.ritebrew.com. I stay away from InBev anyway.

 

My bad I've always brewed all grain didn't realize you can't minimash Vienna. Real shame Vienna and pils is a Mach made in heaven

 

Maillard Malts is a store brand of Midwest/Northern Brewer. They are repackaged from other brands. Breiss and Dingemans are different companies.

I think the Ritebrew Caravienne is also 20L and its just a typo.

 

Like I said earlier, yes, I think even half a pound is too much. Some others here might prefer it with even more than a pound. This is really a personal preference question. Just do what feels right and adjust up or down next time if you feel like it.

 

I would go Dingemans myself, but I usually pick European specialty grains over North American.

 

I just bottled my beer with Liberty Bell and the diacetyl was definitely there. I left it in primary for two weeks. Pretty disappointed, as this is the first real fermentation flaw I've had since I started watching my temps.

How long did it take to clean up after itself for you? Did it clean up in the primary, secondary, bottle, or keg?

 

I left it in primary at highish temps and it cleaned up in about 2 more weeks. Adding some active yeast will help, if that doesn't take care of it. Avoid pulling it off the yeast, as some of them are active and helping.

 

Oops. I bottled it already. I didn't notice the diacetyl until I added the priming sugar and had the beer in the bottling bucket.

Hopefully the fermentation in the bottle helps clear it up a little bit. Wish I had seen your post a few weeks ago so I wouldn't have used that yeast. Never again. At least I only committed half a batch to M36.

 

I didn't read carefully. Since it is already off the yeast and there really isn't an opportunity to add more, yes, hopefully the yeast that are busy carbonating the bottles will clean up the diacetyl. I think the chances are pretty good. I never had diacetyl issues until I started kegging. This may be one advantage of bottling over kegging. If the first bottles you taste have diacetyl, warm up the remaining bottles to 70F or so and wait a few weeks, sampling a bottle every so often to evaluate.

 

Reading "How to Brew" would give you some contextual background against which to ask yourself some (but not all) of the questions you're asking the forum. For the rest, it would give you a better foundation upon which to understand the answers.

 

You can Mash Vienna, therefore you can Minimash Vienna. The only difference is the size of the mash. Vienna has the enzymes to convert its own starches to sugars/dextrins, so you don't necessarily need another base malt to mash/minimash along with it.

But Vienna shouldn't be simply "steeped" unless the steeping conditions also happen to be mash conditions.