Trip Report: Bamberg

Discussion in 'Germany' started by Gutes_Bier, Apr 7, 2012.

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  1. Gutes_Bier

    Gutes_Bier Maven (1,363) Jul 31, 2011 Germany

    TL;DR Beer Report: Schlenkerla's Fastenbier is in fact really good. Other really good beers included Klosterbräu's Braunbier & Schwärzla, Fässla's Zwergla, and Spezial's Rauchbier Lager. One beer I did not enjoy was Kulmbacher's Eisbock. Now on with the show...

    Oh, Bamberg. My wife and I - with our seven month old - made it a lazy trip. No schedule, no rush, nothing that must be seen and/or done, with the exception of a stop at Schlenkerla for a Fastenbier, which is available only on tap, and as far as I know (in Germany, anyway) available only at Schlenkerla. We ended up spending just a little over 24 hours there, and so this trip report might end up sounding a little boring.

    We pulled into town at 2:30 pm and chilled in the hotel (Alt Ringlein) a little to give the boy some time to decompress after spending 3.5 hours on the train. The hotel was nice enough and very European - small but clean, good breakfast included, and with a shower designed in such a way as to make you question not only the intelligence of the person who designed the shower but the future of mankind in general.

    We moved out from the hotel around 5:00 pm to visit the Cathedral area and St. Michael's. Turns out, both churches close at 5:00 before April 1st and the trip was more-or-less wasted with the exception of some nice views of the town below. Frustrated but unbowed, we decided on Schlenkerla for dinner and Klosterbräu for a drink afterwards.

    Schlenkerla was totally full, as you might imagine. A waitress asked if we had a reservation. I said no and she said there was no chance for us to get a table tonight. As we gave the room one last, sad look, three locals - two women and a man, all in their late 50's or ealry 60's if I had to guess - invited us to sit with them at their table. We happily took them up on the offer and it was wonderful. We talked - alternating between German and English - as if we had been old friends meeting up for a drink. Speaking of which, my wife and I each had a Märzen and then I added my Fastenbier after. The Fastenbier really is that good. Well worth the trip. Still, the locals were shaming us in terms of downing beers. These guys were pros, living up to Bamberg's reputation as a city of beer drinkers. No one officially introduced themselves...we just drank and ate and talked. I paid for one of their rounds as a Thank You for their kindness. Friends were made.

    After dinner we wandered the streets over to Klosterbräu for a few beers. It was pretty empty in their "bierstube" section and my wife and I enjoyed a quiet drink - the Schwärzla for her, and the Braunbier for me. The Schwärzla was the better of the two in my very humble opinion, but both were tasty. The Braunbier had a distinct flavor. If smoked beer was like liquid bacon, this was liquid wheat bread.

    The next day we got to visit the Cathedral, checked out of the hotel, and on the way back home, stopped at Spezial, Fässla (which was closed), and Klosterbräu to pick up some beers to go. We rolled over to Cafe Abseits for lunch, where I had the Fässla Zwergla and the Kulmbacher Eisbock with lunch while my wife had a Spezial Lager.

    We went from lunch straight to the train station (where I picked up a few Schlenkerla Märzen's) and called it a weekend.

    I think we're going to take the advice of our tablemates from the night before and come back to Bamberg during Christmas time. No doubt a wonderful city in that season. And anyway, the bock beers will be out in force by then...
     
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  2. Pahn

    Pahn Initiate (0) Dec 2, 2009 New York

    sounds great. i really hope to make it to bamberg sometime, though no idea when (haven't been to europe since a trip to london in college, don't speak german, and i'm not captain moneybags).

    however, posting to note that some fastenbier kegs made it out to the USA (as you can see from reviews). i had some in brooklyn a few weeks ago, and thought it was amazing. definitely beat all the bottled varieties of schlenkerla's beers that i've had (and i really like those).
     
  3. Domingo

    Domingo Grand Pooh-Bah (4,252) Apr 23, 2005 Colorado
    Pooh-Bah

    Sounds like a great time. I'm a big fan of the Klosterbräu Braunbier. It's very different from most everything else and it almost reminds me a little of the American amber lagers like Sam Adams and Brooklyn Lager.
    What's the general rule for being able to try the Fastenbier anyway? I know it's a Lenten seasonal, but what's the general timeframe for seeing it in Bamberg (or the US)?
     
  4. UncleJimbo

    UncleJimbo Grand Pooh-Bah (3,771) Sep 11, 2002 Massachusetts
    BA4LYFE Society Pooh-Bah Trader

    Thanks for the report. It sounds like you had a nice first visit to Bamberg, and I see you live in Germany, so I am sure you will go back. I am also glad you made it to Cafe Abseits. So many visitors do not go there on their first visit, and they are missing out. Did you meet Gerhard at Cafe Abseits?
     
  5. dasenebler

    dasenebler Initiate (0) Jan 26, 2008 Maine

    I fell in love with Bamberg when I went for two days around this time last year. One of the most beautiful small cities in all of Europe. I'm glad you enjoyed your time there.

    Did you make it to the Spezialkeller, their Biergarten on top of the hill? The views of the city and cathedral are outrageous. I remember spending a leisurely afternoon up there drinking Rauchbier and eating Gerupfter(Obatzda).
     
  6. Gutes_Bier

    Gutes_Bier Maven (1,363) Jul 31, 2011 Germany

    A nice second visit, actually. We did not meet up with any other BA's in Cafe Abseits, and to be honest, I'd have to say I wouldn't recommend the cafe to someone who is visiting without a car or at least a bicycle. It is a bit out of the way, after all. And it was a cold spring day and I was pushing a stroller. However, I do think that if I lived in Bamberg I'd go there all the time. Bars in Germany that have that kind of selection are few and far between.
     
  7. Gutes_Bier

    Gutes_Bier Maven (1,363) Jul 31, 2011 Germany

    Fastenbier is available during Lent, as you say, from Ash Wednesday until it's finished I suppose. @ both you and Pahn (sorry I don't know how to reply to multiple posts just yet), it seems like Schlenkerla does export this, and based on reviews I read, I have figured that it's available in the US via keg. Even at Shlenkerla it is tap only, no bottles. What's weird is that I doubt very much they send kegs out to the rest of Germany, or at least outside of Bamberg. The flagship Märzen is hard enough to find here in Heidelberg, let alone their Fastenbier. I can order the Urbock and Dopplebock in the winter season, but they don't bottle the Fastenbier as far as I know.

    All of this said, I have seen the Urbock and Dopplebock reviewed from the US well after they're available here, so maybe you'll still be able to see it over there. If you can navigate the Schlenkerla website, you may be able to find stores and bars in your neighborhood that carry their products.
     
  8. Gutes_Bier

    Gutes_Bier Maven (1,363) Jul 31, 2011 Germany

    @ your avatar: Tim and Eric? Awesome show, great job! :grinning:

    We didn't go to the Spezialkeller although I had hoped to. It was too cold for me to push my stroller up the hill to have a drink inside. We will have to go back. I did just polish off a Spezial Rauchbier Lager, though, and it was delicious! My wife's favorite.
     
  9. jazzyjeff13

    jazzyjeff13 Grand Pooh-Bah (3,865) Nov 6, 2010 England
    Pooh-Bah

    Great report - thanks for taking the time to put it up! Every time I hear something about Bamberg, it makes me even keener to visit. Perhaps I should try and do that this year. I've enjoyed Schlenkerla's beers in the past and can only imagine what having them served fresh from wooden barrels would be like....not to mention the other breweries in the city.
     
  10. UncleJimbo

    UncleJimbo Grand Pooh-Bah (3,771) Sep 11, 2002 Massachusetts
    BA4LYFE Society Pooh-Bah Trader

    Gerhard is one of the proprietors of Cafe Abseits. He is very friendly to BAs (and non-BAs), and will go out of his way to make your visit memorable. Yes, it is a bit of a walk to Cafe Abseits, but there are plans to extend the train station over the tracks with an entrance/exit on the other side, and this will be very convenient for getting to Cafe Abseits.
     
  11. herrburgess

    herrburgess Grand Pooh-Bah (3,077) Nov 4, 2009 South Carolina
    Pooh-Bah

    Glad to hear you guys enjoyed yourselves. I'd say get back during summer, as the Bierkeller explode with activity; it's like a whole new world opens up. As to the Fastenbier: is it served form the wooden barrel? I know the Urbock used to be. At any rate, sounds like a real treat (I have yet to try the Fastenbier myself).
     
  12. yemenmocha

    yemenmocha Grand Pooh-Bah (4,116) Jun 18, 2002 Arizona
    Pooh-Bah

    thanks for the write up.

    I think Bamberg has to be my next vacation in europe, perhaps leapfrogging over a week in Munich. I won't regret that, will I?
     
  13. UncleJimbo

    UncleJimbo Grand Pooh-Bah (3,771) Sep 11, 2002 Massachusetts
    BA4LYFE Society Pooh-Bah Trader

    I will put it this way. Over the last 9.5 years I have visited Germany 17 times, and 15 of those trips included stays in Bamberg, and only 1 included a stay in Munich. :wink:
     
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  14. Gutes_Bier

    Gutes_Bier Maven (1,363) Jul 31, 2011 Germany

    As far as I know it is served from the wooden barrel, but I didn't confirm that. However, I don't think they have tap lines, do they? And they don't bottle the Fastenbier, so I'm assuming it is.

    @yemenmocah, Re: Bamberg vs. Munich, like a lot of things, it depends. If you are going to do sightseeing, Munich is a big destination city, and thus has more interesting museums, sights, and etc. If you are going just as a drinking trip, you would not regret spending time in Bamberg. Well, you might regret it in the same way we all regret having one too many...:wink:
     
  15. Gutes_Bier

    Gutes_Bier Maven (1,363) Jul 31, 2011 Germany

  16. Domingo

    Domingo Grand Pooh-Bah (4,252) Apr 23, 2005 Colorado
    Pooh-Bah

    Probably not, although Bamberg is small enough that you can actually do both rather easily if you have 7 days. My wife and I did a combo trip this last summer and just took the ICE from Munich to Bamberg on a Sunday morning and came back on Wednesday morning. We didn't get a chance to make it to Kaiserdom, but were able to go everywhere else more than once...and do some other non-beer sightseeing, too. Depending on how your hotel pricing works, you can just keep your Munich hotel room (and leave some of your luggage there) and grab a cheap room at Spezial or Faessla while in Bamberg.

    In Munich we always do a lot of other non-beer sightseeing and walking around, so I doubt I'll ever go over to Germany without staying there at least a day or two.
     
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  17. Ruds

    Ruds Initiate (0) Sep 15, 2008 England

    Depends how much your trip is beer centric I guess?

    As you've seen on other posts I've made, I get over regularly and it's with my drinking friends and ALL about the beer !

    Guessing you'll be over for at 'least' a week, I'd say 3 nights Munich, 2 nights Nurenburg, 2 nights Bamberg would be a good combo.

    I wouldn't spend the whole week in Bamberg tbh, great beer destination that it is!

    BM me if you have rough plans, I regularly hop town to town, city to city. Did a night in Bamberg 3 years ago, left at 8am and was drinking in Berlin by 5pm (having travelled the backroutes on a Schones ticket at a cost of E35 for 4 of us!), beers being enjoyed en route - naturlich !
     
  18. TreinJan

    TreinJan Initiate (0) Apr 13, 2006 Netherlands

    The back exit of the station is already open
     
  19. herrburgess

    herrburgess Grand Pooh-Bah (3,077) Nov 4, 2009 South Carolina
    Pooh-Bah

    As others have said, if your primary focus is beer, you won't regret Bamberg...and more importantly, you may regret Munich. I love Augustiner, Hacker-Pschorr, and even HB's beers and could drink them all day every day for a week; but for some it may get old fast...especially when you think about the sheer diversity of beers you can get by just walking a few 100 m through Bamberg to the next brewery or beer garden. What's more, those walks will be through an old town that is 100% protected as a UNESCO world-heritage site; you can get a better lesson on how Romanesque architecture evolved into Gothic and then to Renaissance, Baroque, and Rococo by just walking up the hill from Schlenkerla to the cathedral square and scanning it 270 degrees from left to right.

    Still, there's much to be said for Munich, as it is far more cosmopolitan than Bamberg, has much better museums, and a lot more exciting in general. Bamberg is a throw-back, in more ways than just with the Rauchbier. And that small-town feel can creep in after 4 nights or so.

    Still, all things considered, I say fly into Munich; you get there early in the a.m. usually, so if you do like I did you can spend a few hours at the Augustiner Keller/restaurant depending upon the weather and then head out to maybe the Hofbraeuhaus (yes, it's a tourist spot, but so is Schlenkerla) or Der Pschorr...or to the Schneider Weissbierhaus and call it an early night. Next day you can head to Bamberg for 3-5 nights; explore the city, explore the surrounding villages, and, if you so choose, easily never drink the same beer twice. Then head back to Munich for a night (or two) before you fly back out. Heck, I might even say to do a day trip or even one night in Salzburg, if for no other reason than to go to that Augustiner.

    At any rate, you can't lose with any of the above combinations. And man, I got to get me some of that Fastenbier here soon.
     
  20. UncleJimbo

    UncleJimbo Grand Pooh-Bah (3,771) Sep 11, 2002 Massachusetts
    BA4LYFE Society Pooh-Bah Trader

    Really? Already? Last summer it sounded like it would be a long time before that project was finished. If you are able to cut through the Bahnhof, then it is pretty easy to walk to Cafe Abseits now.
     
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