Brew In a Bag - What Efficiency Can I Expect?

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by sjverla, Jul 30, 2013.

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  1. sjverla

    sjverla Initiate (0) Dec 1, 2008 Massachusetts

    That's what I was afraid of. Oh well. Regardless, I think I can get something that's good enough. If nothing else, it'll save me $20 on extract.

    There's very little likelihood I'd do anything to it other than maybe dry-hop a little more. But I know where you're coming from with the muddled taste.
     
  2. sjverla

    sjverla Initiate (0) Dec 1, 2008 Massachusetts

    Another question that may be less applicable in this situation, but I'm asking anyway...

    What's the benefit/detriment of having a thinner/thicker mash? If I'm targeting a 6.5 preboil volume and mash with 4 gal (2 qt/lb) and rinse/"sparge" with 2.5 gal, why would that be different than mashing with 3.125 gal (1.5 qt/lb) and rinse/"sparging" with 2.875?
     
  3. tronester

    tronester Pooh-Bah (1,653) Nov 25, 2006 Oklahoma
    Pooh-Bah

    I do BIAB. Depending on the strength of the beer typically determines my efficiency. For milds and bitters, I often get 75% efficiency, but with stronger beers it can drop to as low as 65%.
     
  4. VikeMan

    VikeMan Grand Pooh-Bah (3,067) Jul 12, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah

    First, you need more total water than your preboil volume, because of grain absorption (and mash tun dead space if applicable). That said, given a fixed conversion efficiency (the amount of starches converted to sugars), you'll get the best possible mash efficiency (sugars into the kettle) for batch sparging if each step is be set up to run off equal volumes of wort.

    For fly sparging, thinking about it makes my head hurt. So here...
    http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.ph...auter_Efficiency_.28Batch_and_Fly_Sparging.29

    For BIAB dunking/resting/pseudo fly sparging, beats the hell out of me.
     
  5. Homebrew42

    Homebrew42 Initiate (0) Dec 20, 2006 New York


    Is Jack stating that, if you brew in a bag but then employ any type of sparge, you're no longer Brewing In a Bag, even though you are brewing in a bag?
     
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  6. koopa

    koopa Initiate (0) Apr 20, 2008 New Jersey

    Me thinks so :slight_smile:

    Just to clear any confusion up for anybody, BIAB can be done with no sparge, with a traditional sparge, with a dunk sparge, and probably with some other really cool modern sparge technique I don't even know about yet!
     
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  7. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Grand Pooh-Bah (3,375) Dec 15, 2005 Pennsylvania
    Society Pooh-Bah

    My readings on the BIAB method are like what is written on the Brewer’s Friend website:

    “After the mash is complete you heat the mash to mash-out temperature, which is crucial to achieving good efficiency with BIAB since you are NOT rinsing the grains.”

    http://www.brewersfriend.com/2009/06/20/brew-in-a-bag-biab-all-grain-brewing-method/

    I will take your word for it that the BIAB method can also include a sparging process.

    Cheers!
     
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  8. sjverla

    sjverla Initiate (0) Dec 1, 2008 Massachusetts


    Holy hell that's complex...probably just best to say 'good enough' when it comes to fly sparging results that are satisfactory.

    EDIT: It just occurred to me that my kettle is graduated in 2 gal increments. Since I'm mashing in there, I'll have a good idea of how much water I'll need to rinse with to get to my boil volume. I had been trying to calculate/estimate accounting for absorption earlier and didn't include that in my previous post.
     
  9. clearbrew

    clearbrew Initiate (0) Nov 3, 2009 Louisiana

    What water to grain ratio are you looking for? I figured it at 1.33gt water/ lb grain.
     
  10. sjverla

    sjverla Initiate (0) Dec 1, 2008 Massachusetts

    I was probably going to go with 2qt/lb. Keep it on the thin side and closer to a traditional BIAB.
     
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  11. clearbrew

    clearbrew Initiate (0) Nov 3, 2009 Louisiana

    O.K. I didn't recalculate it at 2qt, but if that is what you got then go with it. I've only done a few BIAB and I used 1.33. So, disregard my earlier comment.
     
  12. pointyskull

    pointyskull Zealot (675) Mar 17, 2010 Illinois
    Trader

    My BIAB efficiency improved when I purchased a Barley Crusher. Now I crush my grain fine and efficiencies have improved dramatically. I'm in the mid 70s generally, and considering I'm still fine-tuning my crush I expect that to go up, hopefully....
     
  13. angrygrimace

    angrygrimace Initiate (0) Apr 11, 2011 California

    Efficiency in BIAB really varies across the board. I'd give it a try and see where you're at. If you're coming in under 70% or so, I'd try running the grain through the mill twice to see if that improves your yields (this assumes you're buying it at a local place and not online, although I imagine NB or MB might do this on special request).
     
  14. pointyskull

    pointyskull Zealot (675) Mar 17, 2010 Illinois
    Trader

    NB told me "no" when I asked. Midwest will do it if you ask, as will Austin Homebrew Supply
     
  15. sjverla

    sjverla Initiate (0) Dec 1, 2008 Massachusetts

    I'm moving and trying out a new LHBS next week. Hopefully they will mill it twice if they can't/won't just do a finer crush.
     
  16. Applecrew135

    Applecrew135 Crusader (431) Jul 18, 2012 Pennsylvania

    I use a modified BIAB that includes dunk sparging. Really, the only similarity my methods have to BIAB is that the grains end up in a bag for filtering because I have no other means of lautering. My extraction efficiency on small batches (2.5 to 3 gallons) is low 80's. It's not a pretty process, not very time efficient... but it works for me until I can get bigger volume gear.
     
  17. sjverla

    sjverla Initiate (0) Dec 1, 2008 Massachusetts

    In the books. 66% efficiency, which I'll take. My pre-boil and post boil gravities were off (low) by 3 points each, and that I can live with.

    I ended up mashing with 5 gal, sparging with 2 and squeezing only gently (just twisting the bag to put some pressure on the grains). Pre-boil volume was 6.33 gal and ended just shy of 5.

    All in all, I'm pretty pleased with how it all went. Hopefully in the next month or two I'll have the cash to get a cooler and make a mash tun, but BIAB will definitely work for the time being.

    I'll update in a few weeks when it's ready for drinking.
     
  18. inchrisin

    inchrisin Pooh-Bah (2,013) Sep 25, 2008 Indiana
    Pooh-Bah


    The most important lesson is learning your system. ~65% efficiency isn't ideal, but it's better than 63% one batch and 75% the next. Consistency is great and it won't break the bank to add an extra pound of gran to each bill on a homebrew scale.
     
  19. sjverla

    sjverla Initiate (0) Dec 1, 2008 Massachusetts

    That's exactly what I was thinking. Hopefully I don't do BIAB for much longer. I've got my next batch slated for mid-Sept, so hopefully by then I'll be rocking the mash tun. And the ambient temp will be dropping (though it's really damn nice here right now).
     
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  20. El_Zilcho

    El_Zilcho Initiate (0) May 3, 2012 Virginia

    I am just learning so you can probably disregard the rest of this if you want. I've been doing BIAB for a few months now. I haven't calculated efficiencies much yet, but I feel they are pretty high. I have had inconsistencies as I am learning my system, but I have had a few O.G.s come in a good bit higher than the recipie's target O.G. I usually try to mash at 2qt/lb and dunk sparge with the rest. At first it was tempting to hold the bag up and pour sparge water to rinse the grains. But I *think* I have learned that any water used is best used to soak the grains in, you get more out of it. I haven't tried mashing with the entire volume like maybe a standard BIAB would be. Little worried about the high water to grain ratio with that, but I think the reason that works with BIAB is because the bag holds the grains close together. But again, I could be wrong I don't know much.
     
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