Brew In a Bag - What Efficiency Can I Expect?

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by sjverla, Jul 30, 2013.

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  1. sjverla

    sjverla Initiate (0) Dec 1, 2008 Massachusetts

    Yeah, I quickly noticed that at 5 gal/10 lbs (2 qt/lb), most of the water stayed outside the bag. I stirred a lot a did some dunking, but it seems pretty tight in there. If I'm still doing BIAB for the next batch I'll probably dunk sparge as opposed to rinse and try to get the grains as loose as possible.
     
  2. jae

    jae Initiate (0) Feb 21, 2010 Washington

    75-ish%. Make sure you do a mash out.
     
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  3. koopa

    koopa Initiate (0) Apr 20, 2008 New Jersey

    I always did a 10 minute mash out @ 168-170F to help thin the wort and encourage better run off when I was BIAB'ing. I would also pull my grain bag, hold it above the kettle by hand for a majority of the runnings (since I didn't have any pully / hook / carabiner set up) then transfer it over to a 5 gallon (or larger) bucket that had 4+ upside beer mugs in it (creating a false bottom to sit the bag of grain on) and allow the wort to collect.

    I actually purchased a 14 gallon hdpe bucket for this purpose that I now use to store reverse osmosis water. It was much wider than a 5 gallon bucket and much easier to fit the grain bag into. After allowing the bag to drain, I'd remove it along with the mugs and pour the extra reclaimed wort into the kettle.

    Another key is a fine crush. I used a 0.022 spacing on my mill (if memory serves me correctly) when I was BIAB'ing.

    Used to get 74-80+ mash extraction without sparging using this method.
     
  4. sjverla

    sjverla Initiate (0) Dec 1, 2008 Massachusetts


    Good specifics. Thanks for the pointers. I don't remember exactly but I think the grain was ground at .039. I held it by hand for ~15 minutes over and HDPE bucket and waited for the remaining runoff to be nothing more than a slow drip.

    I didn't do a mash out, since in HtB (at least the free, online version), Palmer says its generally not necessary for thin mashes, which this technically was, though width of the bag seems to have caused some issues with the actually thinness.

    Also, a plastic mash paddle isn't worth shit for stirring. I don't know how the handle didn't snap.
     
  5. koopa

    koopa Initiate (0) Apr 20, 2008 New Jersey

    0.039 is the standard setting for a "barley crusher" brand mill (and maybe for a monster mill too?) and in my opinion that isn't even fine enough for regular 3 kettle brewing. I use closer to 0.032 for 3 kettle brewing. With BIAB you definitely want even finer than that. If you don't want to take a giant leap of faith and just crank your mill to something as dramatic as 0.022, at least get it closer to 0.029 and brew another batch. I think you will get a 5-10% mash extraction increase from doing that alone.
     
  6. sjverla

    sjverla Initiate (0) Dec 1, 2008 Massachusetts

    Thanks. But unfortunately I don't own a mill :slight_frown: and it's at the bottom of the 'to be acquired' list :slight_frown::slight_frown:. So I'll probably either a) add a little more base malt and/or b) hurry up on the mash tun.
     
  7. koopa

    koopa Initiate (0) Apr 20, 2008 New Jersey

    When you do purchase a mill, avoid the "barley crusher" like the plague. Monster mill 2.0 with hardened rollers makes that thing look like a bad joke.
     
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  8. sjverla

    sjverla Initiate (0) Dec 1, 2008 Massachusetts

    An update!

    So I've been having an issue with temp control. It started a little warm - in the low 70s for a couple days. But I was able to get it down to 63 for the next few days in the swamp cooler. Well, today it was reading at 68. I'm working from home today and generally not feeling very well, so my mind wandered and I realized that maybe I should take the temp of the water that the bucket is sitting in. It was down around 48 since I'd added some frozen water bottles.

    Well my mind kept going and I thought, "well, the beer inside that's under the waterline (probably ~8" up) doesn't really know it's not supposed to be that cold. So maybe the Johnson probe taped to the side of the bucket (above the waterline) isn't giving me an accurate reading."

    I'd been trying really hard not to take a sample for at least two weeks, but at this point, I knew that the only way I'd get to the bottom of my beer's temperature would be to take one. So I did. And sure enough, it was at 50. A little concerning, but I know most of the hard work for the yeast is done at this point. I let it warm up to 60 and dropped in the hydrometer, which settled at 1.016. It's a bit high for US-05 and I suspect it might keep going a little now that I know it can warm up some (I'll use my thermometer in the cooling water. Once that hits 70, I'll add ice again.)

    However, the beer tasted awesome. A touch more bitter than I was going for, but I can honestly say I think that it'll be something I'd be happy to get at a brewpub. I may be exhausted for no apparent reason (got an honest to goodness 8 hours last night), but I'm very excited about today's indications.
     
  9. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Grand Pooh-Bah (3,375) Dec 15, 2005 Pennsylvania
    Society Pooh-Bah

    In your post you mentioned:

    · SG reading today is 1.016

    · It has been fermenting for two weeks, is that correct?

    What was the OG and mash temperature of this beer?

    Cheers!

    P.S. I hope that you feel better real soon!
     
  10. sjverla

    sjverla Initiate (0) Dec 1, 2008 Massachusetts


    Thanks Jack. It's only been a week in the fermenter. OG was 1.050 at mash was 154.
     
  11. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Grand Pooh-Bah (3,375) Dec 15, 2005 Pennsylvania
    Society Pooh-Bah

    So, at the 1 week mark you have an Apparent Attenuation of 68%. You mashed at 154°F which should result in a wort that is reasonably fermentable. I personally mash at 153°F when I am looking to produce a wort which is highly fermentable.

    Just keep your beer at warmish temperatures (e.g., mid 60’s F) and your beer should continue to ferment down to a lower final gravity.

    I use US-05 to make my American style IPAs and I consistently go from around 1.061 – 1.062 down to something like 1.010 (AA of about 84%). My primary fermentation consistently completes in one week. I also use 1 lb. of crystal malt while making my IPAs.

    Cheers!
     
  12. sjverla

    sjverla Initiate (0) Dec 1, 2008 Massachusetts

    Another update?! Truthfully I didn't expect to do this until it was done and I could say 'This is the best beer anyone will ever taste!' but now I'm confused...so I turn to the forum for help.

    I dry hopped last night and took a sample. SG was down to 1.012 - perfect. I sanitized everything - thief, cylinder, hands and measuring cup for hops. Now there's activity again. It's been over 12 hours and there's no off-odor or pellicle, but there is a small (1/2 inch maybe), hop-particle-covered (I didn't use hop bags) krausen and airlock activity.

    Might the hops hitting the yeast cake have roused some more activity?
    Might my sanitation still been lackluster?
    Might the fact that I've been letting it warm (mid-upper 60s) have a role?
     
  13. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Grand Pooh-Bah (3,375) Dec 15, 2005 Pennsylvania
    Society Pooh-Bah

    The hops that you added provide what are termed nucleation points which will encourage CO2 that is in solution to come out of solution. You just seeing the effects of this ‘out-gassing’. This is a good time to remember Charlie Papazian’s old adage of RDWHAHB (Relax, Don’t Worry, Have a HomeBrew).

    Cheers!
     
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  14. sjverla

    sjverla Initiate (0) Dec 1, 2008 Massachusetts


    Thanks Jack! I was less concerned and more curious. Nucleation points hadn't made it to my mind.

    I'm working from the home office today and beer with lunch is an absolutely awesome idea!
     
  15. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Grand Pooh-Bah (3,375) Dec 15, 2005 Pennsylvania
    Society Pooh-Bah

    “ ..beer with lunch is an absolutely awesome idea!”

    Cheers to that!!!!
     
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