Couple more noobie questions

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by CurtFromHershey, Jan 2, 2014.

Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.
  1. CurtFromHershey

    CurtFromHershey Initiate (0) Oct 4, 2012 Minnesota

    A little background first... I've been brewing extract and steeping grain kits with some friends for a while and decided to get into it on my own since the group was very casual about it and I have a tendency to try to "nerd it up" a bit. I got most of an all grain BIAB kit (10 gal ss kettle with valve and thermometer, carboys, siphons, etc) for xmas and picked up the remaining odds and ends the day after. I've read through large chunks of Palmer's book, including any parts which might be relevant to these questions.

    First, why is it important to minimize oxygen exposure while cooling the wort post boil if you need to intentionally aerate it before pitching the yeast? Is it simply an effort to reduce the time of oxidation on the wort or is oxygen exposure during cooling not a big concern? Someone please enlighten me on when the cut-off point is and what the thinking is behind it.

    Second, is there any need to filter the wort after mashing and before boiling? It seems like quite a bit of gunk makes it through the bag. Does this pose a scorching concern if left in the kettle? If I leave it in there, will it clear out at the end of fermentation along with most of the yeast? I have an auxiliary 7.5 gal kettle (turkey fryer) which I could use for a filtration step if it would improve the quality of my beer. In batch number 1 that I brewed this past weekend, the only "filtering" I did was through a bazooka screen in my kettle when transferring to the carboy. A lot of gunk made it through, but I figured worst case scenario was a hazy beer which I don't mind at all. After nearly a week in the carboy, it's still extremely murky in there. The plus side is that all signs point to a very healthy fermentation!

    Anyway, thanks for the help, and I look forward to contributing more than just questions in the near future.

    -Curt
     
    #1 CurtFromHershey, Jan 2, 2014
  2. epk

    epk Pundit (849) Jun 10, 2008 New Jersey

    Palmer actually answers the first one -

    1) http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-9-3.html

    2) I have no experience with BIAB and can't really speculate just how much gunk you are speaking of but I'll take a shot at an answer. In what I have heard, I don't recall anyone saying filtering pre boil was needed (could consider things to help clear out proteins and such, like whirfloc tablets - though I don't think this is a protein issue). You could also think about using a strainer/funnel combo from kettle to fermenter.

    Regardless, you are correct, this particulate matter (aka gunk) should drop out eventually, unless the cloudiness is associated with a protein haze.
     
    #2 epk, Jan 2, 2014
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2014
    CurtFromHershey likes this.
  3. CurtFromHershey

    CurtFromHershey Initiate (0) Oct 4, 2012 Minnesota

    Thanks, and a big facepalm for missing that section in the book. I'll see how batch 1 turns out to see if adding a straining step will be necessary for me. Whirlfloc tabs will probably do the trick, I suspect.
     
    #3 CurtFromHershey, Jan 2, 2014
  4. ssam

    ssam Pundit (997) Dec 2, 2008 California

    to minimize particulates coming through your bag you can try a coarser grind--keep in mind this may affect efficiency, although ive heard biab is pretty efficient. in normal brewing, you lauter until it is clear. there is a reason for this but i dont remember. probably the only effect will be more trub to filter out post-boil or to settle during fermentation.

    hotside aeration problems are a myth according to my brewing prof.
     
    #4 ssam, Jan 2, 2014
    CurtFromHershey likes this.
Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.