Another IPA recipe to critique

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by BigAB, May 10, 2012.

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  1. BigAB

    BigAB Initiate (0) Aug 4, 2008 Iowa

    3 Gallon batch with efficiency of ~69%.

    1.068 Target OG
    1.015 Target FG
    8 SRM
    100 IBU (ProMASH calculated...probably closer to 70-75?)
    7.0% ABV

    MALT
    81.5% 6.6lbs Thomas Fawcett Pearl Malt
    12.3% 1lbs Weyermann Munich Malt (8 L)
    3.1% 4oz Weyermann CaraHell Malt
    3.1% 4oz Weyermann Melanoidin Malt
    Single infusion mash at 152 for 75 min (1.55 quarts water:lbs grain). Batch sparge at 169 for 25 min. Moderate water (with regards to hardness).

    HOPS
    60min .5 oz Simcoe
    20min 1 oz Centennial
    15min 1 oz Centennial
    10min 1 oz Amarillo
    0min 1 oz Amarillo

    YEAST
    Wyeast 1272 American Ale II (on the fence here) with a 0.7 L starter.

    I will decant/pitch at 62-63, and let it rise to 64-65 and ferment - then I will let it rise to room temp once the krausen has fallen. 3 weeks total - no secondary here (no dry-hopping either).

    What I would like advice most on is the yeast. I want a relatively balanced IPA here (for the style - still slightly hop-forward), probably more on par with an English IPA. I would like to get a good bready flavor that compliments the hops well...something more than a "malt backbone". I'm toying with the idea of using an English yeast strain, but I'm not so familiar with any of them, and I don't want to get too much of a fruity, oakey or mineral character here either. WLP005, WLP007 - or maybeWyeast 1275 or 1335?
     
  2. jokelahoma

    jokelahoma Savant (1,162) May 9, 2004 Missouri

    1272 (White Labs 051) is a fruity, slightly less attenuative 1056 (001). I don't think you'll get the bready flavors you're looking for out of that. I love the yeast, mind you, but it's not English in any way, shape, or form. Of those you listed, I think you'd be happiest with 1335.

    Whichever you choose, you'll want a bigger starter if at all possible. That high an OG, you'll want at least a liter, even for a 3 gallon batch. Anything less and you'll be increasing the esters that it sounds like you want to avoid.
     
  3. BigAB

    BigAB Initiate (0) Aug 4, 2008 Iowa

    Thanks for the advice! I'll give 1335 a closer look. I'm quite familiar with 1272 - I guess you could say it's my current 'default' American Ale yeast...but it doesn't have the character that I'm looking for. I ferment between 62-66 with it, so the fruitiness isn't an issue. It can give off a bit of a nutty flavor, which I like - but overall it is far too 'neutral' (like most American ale yeasts).

    I want a yeast that actually has some expression to it (hence the thought to some English strains) - I think that most 'neutral' yeast hide about as much as they expose. This is fine if all someone wants is a hops showcase, but I want more :wink:

    From the yeastcalc calculator I get 162 billion cells in 0.7 liters of 1.037 wort (assuming a 1+ month old vial and my use of a stir plate). For a 3 gallon ale at 1.068 it calls for 141 billion cells needed (I'm an overpitcher!).
     
  4. mnstorm99

    mnstorm99 Initiate (0) May 11, 2007 Minnesota

    Malt bill seems to go with what you want. I think you have plenty of flavor coming out of yours hops, but I do feel as though your a bit short on the aroma hop additions.
     
  5. Longstaff

    Longstaff Initiate (0) May 23, 2002 Massachusetts

    I would ditch the melanoidin malt (a little goes a long way in an ipa -and you already have good portion of munich malt and carahell), and if you want breadiness, change the base malt to maris otter. The hop profile should make for a malty, non-hoppy beer.
     
    utahbeerdude and Eriktheipaman like this.
  6. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Grand Pooh-Bah (3,375) Dec 15, 2005 Pennsylvania
    Society Pooh-Bah

    Based upon the previous posts it would appear that I will be a contrarian here. You have 4 ounces of American aroma hops that you are using for your late hopping (20 minutes or less in the boil). My personal experience with Centennial and Amarillo is that both of these hop varieties are very ‘expressive’: lots of flavor/aroma. Given that, I am at a loss how you will be able to perceive a subtle malt character of “bready”. Perhaps the other posters have more refined palates than mine, but if I were to brew this beer the hop flavors/aromas would dominate my perception of this beer.

    I have never homebrewed an English style IPA but I have consumed a number of commercial versions. My personal favorite English style IPA is Meantime IPA:

    “THE ORIGINAL BITTER BEER - A GLASS FULL OF HOPS

    India Pale Ale is the beer that sustained the British Raj - it did not just survive the passage to India, it matured to perfection on the long voyage. Original IPA was heavily hopped - up to twice as much as domestic beers - and so Meantime use plenty of Kent Fuggles and Goldings to help re-create the flavours of the world's first great pale beer style. Magnificent with Indian cuisine or English cheese.”

    While I am certain that a British yeast ‘contributes’ to the character of an English style IPA, I am of the opinion that the critical aspect is hop selection. I homebrew a Bitter Ale a lot which is solely hopped with East Kent Goldings (EKG) hops. EKG hops are very impotent from a flavor/aroma perspective when compared to American aroma hops. In my Bitter Ale I use 1 ounce of EKG at flameout and 2 ounces for dry hop (14 days of contact time) and I barely perceive the aroma of this hop.

    My personal suggestion if you truly want to brew a ‘balanced’ IPA whereby you will be able to perceive the malt characteristics such as “bready” then don’t use potent American aroma hops for your late additions, use English hops which are less potent (e.g., EKG).

    I have never personally brewed with Wyeast 1335 but the description that Wyeast provides makes this sound like an appropriate choice.

    Cheers!
     
    AlCaponeJunior likes this.
  7. mnstorm99

    mnstorm99 Initiate (0) May 11, 2007 Minnesota

    I agree with you in regards to the flavor that will be contributed by the hops, and there will be plenty of flavor coming out of those hop additions.. And will also say that the one ounce of aroma hops might be enough if used as a dry hop, but I am still not sure if it is enough for the aroma to "dominate".
     
  8. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Grand Pooh-Bah (3,375) Dec 15, 2005 Pennsylvania
    Society Pooh-Bah

    You are correct that dry hopping with 1 ounce of Amarillo will provide more aroma than 1 ounce at flameout. Whether the OP’s recipe is a “bit short on the aroma hop additions.” is highly dependent on what he is trying to achieve with his beer. If he is truly trying to create a ‘balanced’ IPA where he will be able to perceive malt characteristics of “bready’ my argument is that he has too much flavor/aroma hops via his selection of American aroma hops.

    The additions of Centennial and Amarillo hops at 20 minutes, 15 minutes and 10 minutes will add A LOT of flavor. The addition of 1 ounce of Amarillo will add a substantial amount of aroma. I cannot personally attest to BigAB’s palate but I can tell you that I would not perceive “bready” with all of that hop flavor/aroma going on.

    Cheers!
     
    mnstorm99 likes this.
  9. BigAB

    BigAB Initiate (0) Aug 4, 2008 Iowa

    Thanks for all the thought-provoking posts so far, everyone! It's much appreciated.

    I'm really trying to straddle the style that is IPA, and I'm also trying have my cake and eat it too. I want a solid expression of breadiness (hence the Pearl malt - which is supposed to be all about "breadiness"), but also plenty of tropical aroma/flavor from American hops. I'm familiar with Fuggles and Goldings, but that is not what I want for this beer.

    The question of how much hops is 'too much' for this beer is a fair one. Honestly, I would like the beer to have between 60-75 IBUs, but I know from my own palate that none of my past beers have ever come close to the calculated numbers - so I'm really just ball-parking with a theoretical 100 IBUs. And the hop-bursting may go too far in my recipe, but I prefer not to get most of my bitterness from first hop additions (I often feel they can be too harsh and resinous at IPA levels). Oh, and I'm not going to dry-hop, by the way.

    Also, I feel as though my malt bill is pretty solid - to my liking, at least. Really it comes down to the choice of yeast - I honestly feel that the malt and hop expression will come from what the yeast exposes/hides. That's why I'd rather not go to my default of Wyeast 1272.

    Thanks again.
     
  10. Chisholm

    Chisholm Aspirant (224) Dec 18, 2006 Ohio

    I use 029 in my ipas.
    As far as the hopping goes, I'd use the centennial for bittering or FWH with the simcoe for bittering. I also prefer a big flameout addition with a moderate (1 oz) 15 min addition.
    My opinion is that hop character is either bitter or aromatic and that "flavor" additions are just a combination of bitter and aromatic qualities.
     
  11. BigAB

    BigAB Initiate (0) Aug 4, 2008 Iowa

    Excellent idea on using a kolsch yeast. Thanks for the tip.

    I'm thinking I might dial back the calculated IBUs to about 80 now, still keeping the FWH-bittering a bit low.
     
  12. marquis

    marquis Pooh-Bah (2,313) Nov 20, 2005 England
    Pooh-Bah

    Often overlooked in these "recreations" of IPA that one of the main points about the export version was that they were very highly attenuated.Whether modern tastes would appreciate beers like this is another matter.
     
  13. afrokaze

    afrokaze Pooh-Bah (1,962) Jun 12, 2009 Oregon
    Pooh-Bah Trader

    Wouldn't a highly attenuated IPA just end up like a west coast style, with a really dry body that accentuates the bitterness of the hops? Although it would be interesting to do this with English hops/malt bill like others have suggested.
     
  14. AlCaponeJunior

    AlCaponeJunior Grand Pooh-Bah (3,452) May 21, 2010 Texas
    Society Pooh-Bah

    I have kind of given up on the idea of "straddling" the IPA style. At this point, once I got past the bitterness aspect and embraced the hops that is, I've just decided to be blown away by the intensely (and sometimes even subtle) aspects of the magnificent hops plant.

    Despite the great debates that are occurring on this thread, I question whether you'll ever truly be happy with the "before" product. I know for sure that you'll be very hoppy with the "after" product though. And that's probably what really matters.
     
  15. bulletrain76

    bulletrain76 Maven (1,311) Nov 6, 2007 California

    I see no reason to do a 20, 15, and 10 minute addition. 15 and 0 should be fine. Maybe throw in some at 30 for a little glycoside formation to aid mouthfeel. And for christ sake, dry hop it! If you like bitter beer with subtle aroma, I guess that's fine, but if you went good hop aroma, you really have to go with the dry hop. I like your malt bill. And yeast choice, but you should at least double the starter size. 0.7L is pretty much useless for yeast growth.
     
  16. BigAB

    BigAB Initiate (0) Aug 4, 2008 Iowa

    So I've thought about it for a little while and decided to modify my IBU level and hopping schedule a bit:

    60min .4 oz Simcoe
    20min .5 oz Centennial
    15min 1 oz Centennial
    10min 1 oz Amarillo
    0min 0.5 oz Amarillo
    0min 0.5 oz Centennial

    Basically, I decided to back off some to ~80 IBU. Still not dry-hopping :grinning:

    I'm focused on Wyeast 1335 and WLP007 - does anyone have much in the way of experience with either? Thoughts or pointers?

    Thanks again.
     
  17. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Grand Pooh-Bah (3,375) Dec 15, 2005 Pennsylvania
    Society Pooh-Bah

    In a previous post you stated: “Really it comes down to the choice of yeast - I honestly feel that the malt and hop expression will come from what the yeast exposes/hides.”

    In my personal opinion, yeast selection will play a very minor role in your beer. You now have 3.5 ounces of potent American hops for your late hopping schedule (20 minutes to end of boil). I am not aware of any yeast that is ‘magical’ enough to compete with the amount of hop flavor/aroma that you have in your recipe. To put a finer point on this discussion: no matter what yeast you select it will not “expose/hide” the hop flavor/aroma that you will be getting from your hop schedule.

    I recognize that you previously mentioned “I'm also trying to have my cake and eat it too” but the reality is that you need to make a decision here:

    · Produce a beer very much like an American style IPA (i.e., your present late hopping schedule) in which case particular yeast selection is very much a secondary issue

    · Produce a ‘balanced’ IPA whereby you can perceive malt influences like “bready”. In this case select 1335 and very much ‘tone down’ you late hopping schedule.

    Cheers!
     
  18. premierpro

    premierpro Savant (1,060) Mar 21, 2009 Michigan

    I use WLP007 for my English IPA's. This yeast is the maltiest English strain I have used. I also would bitter with the Centenial and move the Simcoe inside the 5 min. mark. Good brewing!
     
  19. BigAB

    BigAB Initiate (0) Aug 4, 2008 Iowa

    Thanks, Jack. I appreciate the concern with the hopping level - something I will continue to think about more since there is a thin-line of hop-flavor/aroma/bitterness that I'm looking for. I disagree, however with yeast selection: I think it is just as important, and sometimes even more so than recipe selection. Even with a firmly hop-forward beer I believe that yeast should definitely not be an afterthought. I realize that there are plenty of US-05/1056/001 users out there who are in opposition to this, but a yeast isn't simply a "yeast" IMO.
     
  20. BigAB

    BigAB Initiate (0) Aug 4, 2008 Iowa

    Thanks for the tip on WLP007 - any ideas as to the differences between 1335 and 007 (I know they're each oft recommended substitutes for the other)? Their listed attenuation and temp ranges are somewhat different, but other than that I don't have much to go on.

    I've been toying with the idea of dropping Simcoe all together and bittering with Centennial; I am not a big fan of later additions with Simcoe. I have, however, used precisely the same combo/timing (as listed above) of the three hops in a Pale Ale and absolutely loved it - the ratios were quite a bit different, though.
     
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