Our obsession w/ more hops, and commercial usage

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by FATC1TY, May 27, 2014.

Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.
  1. FATC1TY

    FATC1TY Pooh-Bah (2,564) Feb 12, 2012 Georgia
    Pooh-Bah

    Got me thinking today..

    I got a taster of a beer while in Asheville, at Wicked Weed. Their Menage-a-Freak Triple IPA. It was a damn hoppy and tasty IPA for sure. Centennial, Mosaic, Amarillo, Simcoe in the dry hop.

    They quote and told me, 94# of hops total, in just 11 barrels of beer.

    94# of hops is 1504 ounces of hops.
    11 barrels is 341 gallons

    Thats only 4.41 ounces of hops, per 1 gallon of beer.

    I'm assuming thats bittering- dryhop, and they dry hop it 3 times over. 20 ounces of hops in a 5 gallon batch is a ton, but I've done just as much.

    That said, against their normal double IPA, with only 3 pounds per barrel, there wasn't a HUGE difference, just slightly more saturated aroma.

    I know pro systems are quite more efficient than a homebrew scale, and they are more consistent in holding back aroma and O2 to keep from staling quite so soon. But.. one has to beg.. when a brewery can make a DIPA with 1.5 ounces of hops a gallon and have it potent.. where is the line drawn for us?

    I've started to think that my very own IPA's have struggled with adding all these new hops and just dumping them in.. not the crisp finish and defined beers that you find commercially.
     
    josmickam likes this.
  2. hopfenunmaltz

    hopfenunmaltz Pooh-Bah (2,647) Jun 8, 2005 Michigan
    Pooh-Bah

    Have you read "for the Love of Hops" by Stan H? He has the story of Marble cutting back on hops to get the flavor they wanted.
     
    inchrisin likes this.
  3. AlCaponeJunior

    AlCaponeJunior Grand Pooh-Bah (3,452) May 21, 2010 Texas
    Society Pooh-Bah

    To me, all grain brewing is a pretty cheap hobby (at least ingredients wise), so I don't really think about the quantities of hops I'm using with all that much concern. I just want results, and pro brewers and their efficiencies aren't of much importance to me. If it takes 20 oz of hops for a batch, so be it (although so far I'm only up to 17, and it had great flavor and aroma).
     
  4. slusk

    slusk Initiate (0) Sep 28, 2009 Virginia

    I imagine that dry hopping in particular has so many variables, much like everything else in brewing, that it's a matter of finding the contact time, temp, fermenter geometry and method that get's you where you want to be. For the pros, a difference of 1% efficiency means a lot of money... for us, 50 cents in grain and hops. :slight_smile:
    Brewing, for lack of a better phrase, is such a fluid process, I can't imagine 2 different brewers on different equipment can produce identical beers. If they have identical equipment and processes... probably can. In the end... throw that stuff in there and see what you come up with. Pretty much my Brewing philosophy!
     
    #4 slusk, May 27, 2014
    Last edited: May 27, 2014
  5. FATC1TY

    FATC1TY Pooh-Bah (2,564) Feb 12, 2012 Georgia
    Pooh-Bah


    Ehh, I wasn't bringing it up because of cost. More or less the ability to make great beer commercial quality with less. That perhaps we sometimes do too much when it's not needed.
     
  6. mattbk

    mattbk Savant (1,111) Dec 12, 2011 New York

    I believe you're correct, there are limited returns with more hops, dry hops in particular. That being said, an IPA that has 10% more hop aroma and flavor could be widely perceived as way better than one with less, so it may be worth it to the brewery to use 2x (or even 5x?) the hops to achieve that flavor boost.

    Of course, this all depends strongly on so many variables that there isn't going to be one way that works best for every beer. I imagine that this "Triple IPA" loads up the malt too, so adding all the hops here may make sense versus, say, a "session IPA".
     
  7. wspscott

    wspscott Pooh-Bah (1,958) May 25, 2006 Kentucky
    Pooh-Bah

    That is something that has been in the back of my head ever since I read it. I have been wondering about hopstands vs. chill fast as well.

    I just pulled out the book. They went from 1.65#/barrel in the last 10 mins and 1.8#/barrel dryhops to .8#/barrel in last 10 mins and 1.2#/barrel dryhops. They think they got a better beer (more of the "right" flavors) with less hops (p.28).

    good thread
     
    FATC1TY likes this.
  8. AlCaponeJunior

    AlCaponeJunior Grand Pooh-Bah (3,452) May 21, 2010 Texas
    Society Pooh-Bah

    Yeah, I catch your meaning. I just think they must have better equipment and know-how than we do. Not that we're a bunch of morons or anything, just that it doesn't help me much to know how to operate a badass commercial setup if I've never seen one and don't have plans to buy one. So given the average cost of hops per batch, the difference won't add up to enough dough for me to worry too much about it. Now if hops were $100 a lb instead of $10-15....
     
  9. FATC1TY

    FATC1TY Pooh-Bah (2,564) Feb 12, 2012 Georgia
    Pooh-Bah


    Thats my mode of thought here.. It seems, not just me included at times, that you often hear, or taste a beer that is.. muddy. Muddled hop flavors, plenty of generic hop aroma, but no real.. moments where the certain hops shine.

    We started going back and forth about chilling quicker, skipping the hopstands, racking with a co2 blanket.. then I started thinking, that some of my more clear, and vibrant tasting beers, that do have some hop aroma and notes to them, have just a few varietals and... not a boat load of them like I would do in my IPA's.

    I think there's something to perhaps taking commercial examples of really hoppy beers and finding out how many #'s per barrel they end up using.

    I know our systems arent as efficient, but I know I'd be floored to find that Hoptimum from SN had only 30#'s of hops a barrel start to finish.
     
  10. FATC1TY

    FATC1TY Pooh-Bah (2,564) Feb 12, 2012 Georgia
    Pooh-Bah


    Yeah, but the question is, have you tried to brew a really vibrant, crisp IPA, and not pack it to the gills and it still come out awesome?

    You did the Citra IPA thing a while back, and just went wild with the Citra, no? I wonder if it would have been just as great with less hops, and maybe working on drying the beer out more?
     
  11. FATC1TY

    FATC1TY Pooh-Bah (2,564) Feb 12, 2012 Georgia
    Pooh-Bah

    Also, I'll add to this discussion-

    The beers I had in question, all finished around 1.009 according to their OG's listed. Thats nice and dry for a big DIPA and Triple IPA, I think.

    I think there's a ton to be said about getting a really dry IPA that allows you to do more, with less.
     
  12. AlCaponeJunior

    AlCaponeJunior Grand Pooh-Bah (3,452) May 21, 2010 Texas
    Society Pooh-Bah

    Hmmmm this hopstand vs quick chill thing intrigues me. There's only one I can think of off hand to use as a control and try this, and that would be my PtE-esque clone thingie. It had a 30 minute (theoretical, probably wound up more like 25) hop stand. Should I really just toss 'em in, mix well, and begin cooling instead? That baby made my top six list, so I'd be wary of fixing something that ain't broke. Thoughts?
     
  13. AlCaponeJunior

    AlCaponeJunior Grand Pooh-Bah (3,452) May 21, 2010 Texas
    Society Pooh-Bah

    Citra bomb from hell

    • 0.5 oz Belma at 60
    • 1 oz citra at 15
    • 1 oz citra at 10
    • 1 oz citra at 5
    • 1.5 oz citra at FO, then cool to 170F and let stand 15 minutes
    • 1.5 oz citra after 15 minute hop stand, while wort is still hot, let stand another 15 minutes
    • 2 oz citra DH
    Not sure how overkill that one really was in comparison to others I've made and other people have made. Doesn't lend itself as well to the hopstand/no-hopstand comparison tho.
     
  14. thewrongtone

    thewrongtone Zealot (743) Oct 15, 2006 Arkansas

    Something I've noticed in the past few years is an increase in brewers' finesse when it comes to hops. Seems like in the mid-200's, it was just "dump in a bunch of hops, now it's an IPA." Now, I feel like there is more knowledge and precision applied to the use of hops. Specifically, different varieties being used for certain flavors, varieties used to complement each other, and the timing of additions.

    Maybe I'm crazy and it's always been this way.
     
    GreenKrusty101 and mattbk like this.
  15. mattbk

    mattbk Savant (1,111) Dec 12, 2011 New York

    It would be interesting to know the process by which Wicked Weed is dry hopping this beer. Are they just dumping them in the fermenter? Using a hopback? Are they recircing them in the fermenter during the dry hop?

    A lot has been made about getting "the most out of the hops" - perhaps they use this many to correct for a process limitation?

    I think in that same study in "For the love" it was determined that a longer hop stand (I think it was 30 vs 60 minutes) made for better hop flavor.
     
  16. alanforbeer

    alanforbeer Crusader (455) Jan 29, 2011 South Carolina

    I remembered a thread from a few weeks back where there was a discussion on this topic:

    http://www.beeradvocate.com/community/threads/need-some-help-with-my-hoppy-beers.172812/page-2

    Based on this discussion, I decided that I would try chilling as quickly as possible for my next two beers and observe the results. An APA and a NZ-hopped IPA are in the fermenters now, so I'll know in a couple of weeks whether it made a difference.

    A couple of other thoughts that might be relevant:

    1. The best-smelling beer I've ever made was dry-hopped with just 3 oz. of Citra in a 5 gal. batch. The aroma was strong, and very crisp, distinct mango.

    2. Several commercial brewers employ specialized dry hopping techniques that allow them to achieve better efficiency. I'm thinking Sierra Nevada's hop-torpedo, for example. And in the recent "Behind the Brew" episode on Alpine Beer Co.'s Nelson, the brewer mentions "recirculating" when dry hopping. Hard to replicate this on a homebrew level.

    3. I think there's something to the idea of multiple dry hop additions. Not necessarily increasing dry-hopping amounts, but
    taking your usual dry hop bill and splitting between 2 or more separate additions. There's a Brew Strong episode where Jamil Z. and Palmer discuss this at length.
     
  17. jncastillo87

    jncastillo87 Initiate (0) Jan 27, 2013 Texas

    Funny you should bring this up .. I myself am entering my second year of brewing but only about 6 months of all grain and about 6 batches of it. I have an ever evolving IPA/APA recipe that I have been increasing the amount of hops and hop types slowly through every batch. My last batch that is in the bottles now and not ready to taste for another week or so had 2oz glacier for bittering and 1 oz of cascade late boil then 7 oz of whole leaf hops in the 180 degree wort and let them steep for 45 mins. The mixture was 2 oz citra, 2 oz of cascade and 3 oz of mutlihead new mexico hops. Dry hopped with 2 oz cascade and 2 oz of citra. Now this is by far my highest whirlpool and dry hop additions so im REALLY curious to see how this tastes. My thoughts have been keep increasing the hop stand time as I did in this one to 45 mins. Im leaning towards 1 hour next time .. I dont think DMS is an issue with a 75 min boil and good fermentation. We shall see though. Next week I have a Stone IPA clone im brewing that im itching to fast forward time so I can taste it.
     
  18. jncastillo87

    jncastillo87 Initiate (0) Jan 27, 2013 Texas

    Vinny C with Russian River talks about multiple dry hops as well instead of one big one.
     
  19. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Grand Pooh-Bah (3,375) Dec 15, 2005 Pennsylvania
    Society Pooh-Bah

    Matt, Stan did detail experiments that Rock Bottom Breweries conducted a few years ago when there was a hop shortage; one of the motivators for the study was to see how to optimize the use of hops (which were in short supply then).

    The post-boil residence times studied were 50 minutes and 80 minutes. The four test cases were:

    · Added one pound of Amarillo per barrel at the end of boil, with 50 minutes residence time

    · Added one pound of Amarillo per barrel at the end of boil: 80 minutes post-boil residence time

    · Added one-half pound of Amarillo per barrel at the end of the boil, with 80 minutes post-boil residence time, and one-half pound of Amarillo as dry hops

    · Dry hopped with one pound of Amarillo per barrel, with no additional kettle additions.

    Some of the conclusions from that Rock Bottom study:

    · Longer post-boil residence (procedure 2) resulted in more hop flavor, aroma, and perceived bitterness than shorter.

    · A combination of late hopping and dry hopping (procedure 3) resulted in greater hop aroma than longer late hopping. However, it appeared that there was a diminishing return for additional quantities used in dry hopping.

    Cheers!
     
    mattbk likes this.
  20. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Grand Pooh-Bah (3,375) Dec 15, 2005 Pennsylvania
    Society Pooh-Bah

    I have read many posts by BAs which detail an amount of hopping that seems excessive to me. I have been able to obtain BIG hop aroma/flavor in my homebrewed IPAs using a modest amount of hops in comparison.

    A few years ago I brewed an all Citra hopped IPA using the below hopping schedule:

    · Beginning of boil: 2 ounces of Citra (12.3% AA)

    · At 45 minutes of boil: 1 ounce of Citra

    · At end of boil (60 minutes): 1 ounce of Citra (no hop stand)

    · Dry hop: 1.5 ounces of Citra (11 days of contact time)

    After 2 weeks of bottle conditioning I tried my first Citra IPA; that beer was just too hoppy/intense! I actually had difficulty finishing that first beer!

    I purposefully let those beers ‘sit’ for another 3 weeks before trying my second beer; I ‘aged’ the beers with the hope that the hop aroma would fade. At 5 weeks in the bottle the beer was drinkable. With another 1-2 weeks of aging the beer was great!

    I read through the hopping schedule that @AlCaponeJunior posted for his Citra IPA and I almost gagged. How could that beer ever be drinkable!?!

    My only guess is that I somehow achieve ‘better’ efficiency with extracting hop flavor/aroma in my homebrewery than others?

    Cheers!
     
Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.