Racking from Primary to Kegs via Co2

You could always put a bottling valve on the bucket just above the level your yeast and trub typically settles at. Set the bucket on a higher surface than the keg and allow everything to settle out. Open up the valve with the other end of the tubing attached to the keg, and gently force the CO2 into the bucket. Maybe get one of the pieces I talked about in my post above and insert it in a rubber bung to keep the system closed? Not sure if this would all work, just speculating.

 

what's cool is I just wrote an article i submitted two weeks ago for the december byo the with this as a big piece of the puzzle...talking about considerations for a great hoppy beer. #thankyoupeterwolfe. Here is a great link that I remember utilizing back in the day when I first set up my carboy cap:
http://morebeer.com/brewingtechniques/library/backissues/issue2.4/dawson.html

 

So I am a fairly new homebrewer and have been using a friend's bucket for fermentation. I have a fridge with temp control to ferment. I am looking to buy my own stuff and I really like the speidel. Mostly because of the easy cleaning and the spigot. I rarely transfer to a secondary and usually just dry hop in the primary. I hate taking gravity reading via auto Siphon and also dislike transferring to a bottling bucket.

Can you use the spigot to draw gravity samples and bottle or rack to a secondary with the spigot as opposed to using a shipon?

 

I've been very happy with the speidel so far. Definitely a step up from the buckets, easy to clean the spigot, handles are strong and I like the design of the fermenter.

For dry hopping, that is what i've been doing. You just have to be really careful when drawing gravity samples, you don't want to draw it then leave it with wort still clinging to it for several days. You may come back with a mushroom plug. As long as your diligent about rinsing it, then you should be fine. Also the airlock opening is more than big enough to stick a thief in to draw a sample.

 

Thx for the info.

 

You're very lucky you were using a Better Bottle rather than a glass carboy. Why 40psi? I purge my kegs at 10psi... when the O2 is gone, it's gone.

 

Cool setup overall; I will play with this to simplify things a little. I will mention that the sterile filter on the CO2 is probably overkill; if all the fittings are sanitary, it's very unlikely that any contamination will come from the gas...just saying because those sterile filters cost money. But if you have a cheap source, why not use them?

 

Hopefully from behind the nearest wall...

 

Trying to seat a lid that just wouldn't stop leaking, and flushing as much O2 from the hops as I could. Ended up using quite a bit of keg lube and hitting the rim with a hammer to get it to form correctly to the lid. Worked. Def not gonna do any of that 40psi stuff again.

 

You gotta figure that jbakajust1 does everything to the extreme: "Ended up using quite a bit of keg lube and hitting the rim with a hammer to get it to form correctly to the lid" . . . see what I mean!

Actually the orange cap will pop off at a fairly low pressure. Lots of reviews have customers complaining about how difficult it is to keep the cap on a carboy as they add pressure. Not sure this is by design but you want the cap to fail before you-know-what happens. My grip can not keep it on much past 4 psi, so it's unlikely any brewer will be getting the Darwin Award from a failed carboy. Now anyone foolish enough to clamp it down . . .

 

Hey, I resemble that comment!

 

That is a really cool idea! I may have to do that next time around! Thanks for showing a picture of the swivel nut for everyone Port Largo!

 

Yes have done this before. Good post here and on the bear-flavored site. Taking home teeing to the next level!

 

Is using the sterile air filter really necessary? I mean, after all, there seems to be no need to connect one between a co2 bottle and a keg. I'm only asking because I'm wondering if I might be overlooking something here.