Defroster Barley Wine critique/fermentation questions

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by psnydez86, Jul 17, 2012.

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  1. psnydez86

    psnydez86 Initiate (0) Jan 4, 2012 Pennsylvania

    Id like to make a big burly barley wine to keep me warm this winter and am wondering about fermentation.... I'll make a low gravity bitter just prior to my barley wine so I have plenty of yeast soldiers To repitch for my barley wine. Mr malty I phone app tells me I'll need approximately 150 ml of yeast for my yeast repitch approach. My I-brewmaster app tells me that with an est. OG of 1.090, my estimated FG is 1.021 but I'd like to dry this beer out a little more like FG 1.014-1.016 making like a double IPA that I can age in the cellar. How should I go about getting a lower OG?? Should I keep rousing the carboy as it ferments to keep my yeast suspended/ oxygenated or should I add more yeast after some days of primary?? This is gonna be my first high gravity beer and I'm going at it with a partial mash approach....

    I'm gonna do a BIAB mini mash first with 9lbs Maris otter first then I'll be supplementing 6 lbs of Pilsen extract to that wort to get my gravity up to the high 1.080's to low 1.090s... I'm probably gonna do a 60 minute mash around 155-157 cuz I want this beer to have some body/solid mouth feel.

    Hops I'm thinking
    1oz magnum 60 minutes
    1 oz. chinook 25 minutes
    1 oz Simcoe 10 minutes
    1 oz chinook 3 minutes
    I brewmaster est. like 90 some ibus I believe
    And I'll dry hop an oz of chinook and Simcoe in my secondary a week or so before bottling.... I'll be repitching 1056 from my prior small beer.

    Being that this is my first big beer any knowledge/ tips is greatly appreciated

    ps this is a five gallon batch and I just threw that hop schedule together fast and is not set in stone
     
  2. Homebrew42

    Homebrew42 Initiate (0) Dec 20, 2006 New York

    This is contradictory, you can't have both. When you mash high to increase the body the way that increases the body is by increasing the FG, so you can either mash high for increased body, or you can mash low for a low FG, but you can't both mash low for low FG and mash high for increased body.
     
  3. psnydez86

    psnydez86 Initiate (0) Jan 4, 2012 Pennsylvania

    I see... I'm new into mashing so excuse my ignorance. The lower mash temps will make my wort more fermentable... Okay that makes sense. Now is there any way for me to get that low FG without the beer having a thin/watered down mouthfeel or is that also contradictory?? Thanks for the advice!!
     
  4. ororke5000

    ororke5000 Initiate (0) Dec 16, 2008 Ohio

    hum, my advice... do you want to make a double IPA or a Barleywine? Because contrary to popular belief, the two are different.

    Double IPA, mash lower, around 152, use more pale 2-row, some c-60 or a little wheat. maybe add some table sugar to up your OG and dry it out. up your late addition hops and drink it fresh.

    barleywine, mash higher 156-7 use 98% maris or pale, maybe a touch of special malt or medium crystal. boil for at least 90 mins with only a bittering addition and a flavor addition. age it in the bottle for 3 or 4 months.

    your plan to make a small beer than pour the larger beer on the yeast cake seems sound, make sure you control your temps on both.
     
  5. psnydez86

    psnydez86 Initiate (0) Jan 4, 2012 Pennsylvania

    I'm looking to make an American Barley Wine where as when the beer is young it will drink like a double ipa or even imperial Dipa but a beer that I can age in the basement and enjoy a couple in the next 2-5 years or however long they last and enjoy the way the hop bitterness melows and changes. I've yet to have it but I hear sierras big foot barley wine drinks like an imperial ipa but it's a beer that age adds to its complexity.
     
  6. premierpro

    premierpro Savant (1,060) Mar 21, 2009 Michigan

    For any type of big beer I would never mash over 150 degrees. There will be plenty of un fermentables for body.
     
  7. jtingue

    jtingue Initiate (0) Apr 24, 2010 New York

    The three major factors to control attenuation in a beer are mash temp (I'd do mid 140's), replacing other fermentables with some type of sugar (5-10%), and your yeast strain choice (1056 should attenuate well). I would also suggest thinking about a longer boil (2-3) hours, as it may develop more complex and deeper flavors that wont necessarily help with body, but may give you that "barleywine" character you are looking for. Good luck!
     
  8. cmmcdonn

    cmmcdonn Initiate (0) Jun 21, 2009 Virginia

    You could use carapils to add the body/mouthfeel you're looking for. Some use wheat for the same purpose, but wheat will add to the flavor profile, whereas carapils will not.
     
  9. Homebrew42

    Homebrew42 Initiate (0) Dec 20, 2006 New York

    This will of course increase the body, but it will also increase the FG.
     
  10. cmmcdonn

    cmmcdonn Initiate (0) Jun 21, 2009 Virginia

    I'm in complete agreement. However, I felt the OP was equating FG to "sweetness", as many people do. There may not be an ideal way to achieve a low FG while maintaining a full/thick mouthfeel, but I think mashing low + carapils will be closer to what the OP is looking for vs mashing high.
     
  11. PangaeaBeerFood

    PangaeaBeerFood Initiate (0) Nov 30, 2008 New York

    Not necessarily. He'd have to do it up like a Belgian, mash high for lots of dextrins, then load it up with simple sugars. There are tons of dry, full-bodied Belgians that use this technique, Duvel and Scaldis popping into my head off-hand.
     
  12. psnydez86

    psnydez86 Initiate (0) Jan 4, 2012 Pennsylvania

    This is some great info guys!! I'll try a mid to high 140s mash and maybe throw in some carapils and I like the idea of lengthening the boil. Should I just stick with the amount of repitch yeast mr malty recommends and let er go or should I rouse the carboy for the first few hours/days to keep the yeast fighting.... I also saw a brewing tv episode where mike Dawson added some honey to his carboy after about 48 hours of fermentation to give his yeast some easy sugar to work on, boost gravity, and leave some residual honey aroma/flavor. Thanks for the help all!!!
     
  13. Homebrew42

    Homebrew42 Initiate (0) Dec 20, 2006 New York

    Belgians are mashed high? I'm not sure I believe that, and Duvel and Scaldis don't seem particularly full bodied to me, though the high carbonation can give the impression a fuller body than the gravity would suggest.

    Mashing high increases body by adding dextrins, replacing malt gravity with sugar gravity decreases body by decreasing dextrins, what's the rational behind doing both?
     
  14. hopfenunmaltz

    hopfenunmaltz Pooh-Bah (2,647) Jun 8, 2005 Michigan
    Pooh-Bah

    Strong Golden and Tripels are mashed at low temp, have sugar, and have a low FG from the OG they start at. Most American version finish too high.
     
  15. PangaeaBeerFood

    PangaeaBeerFood Initiate (0) Nov 30, 2008 New York

    I could be wrong about that, but I was always under the impression that Monastic brewers do everything on the hot side, high mash temps, high fermentation temps, which is part of what gave them their character.

    The added alcohol gives the impression of fullness compared to beers with comparable terminal gravities, but not with comparable original gravities, if that makes sense. So it depends on what is most important to the brewer. If he wants it to be dry, first and foremost, he could brew a beer that'll finish out with a lower terminal gravity, then pump it with simple sugar to boost the alcohol and give it the impression of being fuller. Otherwise, he could go all malt and deal with the fact that he may not achieve the 85% attenuation he's looking for.
     
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