2nd time extract brew, I have some questions

If possible, do a full boil.

The secondary isn't needed in the way you used it. Leave the beer in the primary for 2-3 weeks. At that point, either dry hop in the primary or secondary for 5-7 days. Then bottle.

 

Well, let’s start with what you posted concerning your first batch. You have not tasted this beer carbonated yet so it would be prudent for you to reserve judgement on that beer. Carbonated beer (with some aging time in the bottle) can taste noticeably different from the uncarbonated beer. Both the carbonation and time in the bottle ‘changes’ the flavor profile.

For the case of this beer being darker, a concentrated (partial) boil will darken the wort (beer).

So, let’s discuss batch number 2:

I would recommend that you steep your carapils/Caramel 20 malts in 1 gallon of water; 150-160 degrees F for 30 minutes. Steeping in a lesser amount of water provides a proper pH which will lessen the extraction of tannins from the grains. Steep at a ratio of 1 lb. of specialty malts to 1 gallon of water.

Adding ½ of the LME amount later will aid in keeping the wort (beer) lighter in color. Just remember to remove the pot from heat to ensure that the LME does not get scorched on the bottom of the hot pot; mix while adding the LME so it does not ‘sit’ too long on the bottom of the pot.

You posted: “Last time I used liquid yeast, WLP001 California Ale. I boiled 4 cups water, poured the yeast in that cup, covered it and put it in the fridge for 15 minutes, took it out and pitched my yeast.” I really don’t understand this. What exactly are you doing with the liquid yeast and boiled water?

“Last time I did only one stage fermentation, this time I'm going for two.” I would discourage you from doing this. There really is no need to conduct a secondary. Simply dry hop in your primary. I use a muslin bag weighed down with boiled glass marbles to contain my dry hops; I primary ferment in a bucket.

Transferring from a primary to a secondary has risks of aerating (oxygentating) the beer which is a very bad thing plus potential infection (depending on the thoroughness of your secondary sanitation procedures).

If you have a big enough pot (and 40 liters is big enough) just conduct a full boil. A full boil will result in a lighter colored beer (see my above discussion on concentrated (partial) boil). You will need A LOT of ice to cool down 5+ gallons of wort.

Batch number 2 will be a higher gravity beer (OG = 1.060). It would be prudent to make a yeast starter or pitch two packages if using a liquid yeast. A single packet of US-05 (dry yeast) would be fine for this batch.

Cheers!

 

I'd like to add that if you are tasting your beer from the bottling bucket you are probably also tasting the priming sugar. That will make your beer appear to be much sweeter than it will be after proper conditioning. Of course if you're kegging this is all moot.

 

"Okay, I just bottled my first brew a week ago..."

Cheers!

 

Frankly, my advice was more relevant to your issues and was delivered in a more concise manner. Sadly, you didn't even have the courtesy to hit the like button.

 

“Okay, steep the grains in 1 gallon of water. Then, I add in 4 more gallons of water, bring it to a boil, and commence adding all the ingredients?” I am not exactly sure of the 4 more gallons of water part. That might be OK. You need to account for boil off which will vary for each homebrewer. You want to start off with a total of around 7 gallons in the beginning of boil (combination of water, malt extract, etc.) and after 1 hour of boiling have something around 5.5 gallons of wort (which will result in something like 5 gallons of beer in your bottles). There will be some ‘wastage’ like beer in your trub, etc.

“…just pitch the yeast whenever it is time (no extra effort necessary), and for this beer you're suggesting that I throw 2 in (if I go with liquid yeast still.)” Yeah, for an OG of around 1.060 you would want to use more than 1 smack-pack/vial of liquid yeast. I am a BIG fan of US-05 so one packet of that yeast is sufficient. Select the yeast that you prefer.

“My bucket uses a plastic cork thing instead of a rubber washer. So... pull the cork out, lower the bag in through the hole, reinsert cork with airlock? And, would you agree with the last 7 days of fermentation and then just remove when I bottle?” I simply open the lid and gently place the muslin bagged dry hops into the beer and replace the bucket lid. 7 days is sufficient contact time. I personally do not remove the bag; I just siphon the beer from the bucket into my bottling bucket.

“I got at least 60 pounds of ice last time, which i used in the bath tub. I think I'll just apply the same technique in the sink so it gets more contact with the ice. I'm not concerned about that part.” 60 lbs. of ice is indeed A LOT of ice. That should cool down your 5+ gallons of worst just fine!!

Good luck with your second batch. Please report back how it turned out.

Cheers!

Jack

 

"Do a full boil, if you can" isn't a command. It's good advice based on experience that validates your motive. I addressed another of your issues regarding premature and essentially unnecessary transfer to a secondary.

I rarely read a JH post that is longer than two sentences, but I'll bet he said there is no need for a secondary. Does the same advice sound better when more words are used?

So it turns out, you just want someone to tell you what you want to hear with as many words as you originally used and you completely disregarded concise and pertinent advice. Ok then!

 

Correct. You hydrate dry yeast. In the case of the wyeast smack packs, you just smack them to proof them. The quality of both dry and liquid yeast is good, as long as you go with a strain that complements the style of beer you are making, you won't be disappointed. After you have brewed another batch or two and you feel more comfortable with what you are doing, look into the topic of making yeast starters. It's a great tool you will appreciate later when you are ready to step up your game.

As Jack mentioned, racking to a secondary has a set of pro's and con's. In this case, the pro's do not out weigh the cons (risk in trashing your beer). If you want to have clearer beer, let it sit in your bucket for 3-4 weeks instead of 1 or 2. Throw some Irish moss in the boil if you like. Not necessary, but it helps some. Between you and me, I think not having chill haze is over rated.

Where are you doing your fermentations? keezer? Basement?

 

is anyone going to critique this recipe? cause I could barely make it to the hop schedule but by then it was pretty much a classic "more is better" C-F.

for the OP, always always always do a full wort boil. always. not debatable. if you can swing a full wort boil than do it. top 5 easy improvements to beginner brews. top 3 even.


also, use a hydrometer. watching bubbles in your airlock is going to get you into trouble one day. a hydrometer is a professional piece of equipment and it is the exact same thing that has been used for centuries at all breweries. even today. same exact device. so you want to have one.
use a hydrometer and you are a brewer. watch bubbles and you are something else.
Cheers.