I usually make a wet hop ale with a standard ipa grain bill then add 1 oz of bittering hops then add .75 lbs of wet hops at 30 and 15 minites. After reading about hop stands and brewing a few house pales with the 15-5- and flame out hop additions , which are excellent, I wondered what the rest of you thought about a hop stand with the fresh hops. I will be using cascade and Chinook this year. 6 gallon batch.
When I brew my wet hop ales I only add the wet hops at the end of boil (and a 40 minute hopstand). I use pellet hops for the other hop additions (bittering and flavor). Cheers!
I think it depends on two things, how flexible our you with outcome expectations and how well have you consumed your harvest in the past. First flexibility, previously I have chosen, like others have mentioned, to use wet only for flavor and use commercial for bittering mainly due to predictability of alpha acid. However, if you have flexibility in IBU, use them wherever you like. Second consideration, if you are having trouble consuming harvest, like I am, use them wherever you want. It all comes down to how valuable you view your wet hops.
very flexable from strictly following recipes to brewing on the fly. And then there is my drunkin brewer series of brews where the outcome can be horrid to fantastic, usually with other home brewers. Harvest 13 lb dry last year and it looks like the crop will be more like 15 lb this year so for my brewing plenty. I do not worry about extra hops. there is always another brewer who is in need or is willing to trade.
In that case, I'd just wet hop all the way through! My last year wet w/ commercial hop schedule was as follows: 1 oz pellet Centennial @ 60 mins 1 oz pellet Centennial @ 20 mins 5 oz wet Cascade @ 15 mins 5 oz wet Cascade @ 10 mins 5 oz wet Cascade @ 5 mins 10 oz wet Cascade hopstand for 20 mins Tasted good, but missed garvity and want to add some honey malt this year. We'll see how it goes.
Thanks, I,ll do just that along with some other ideas then generous Brewers on this site have shared. Thanks to all.
I may do several wet hop ales this year. Still have plenty of dried Chinooks from 2014. Due to an extrordinary bizarro weather year, hops were decimated by spider mites. I finally decided to use some malathion and will not be harvesting a couple varieties this year. Anything that got sprayed prior to cone set is harvestable, but the others not so much : ( I go 5X for hop additions when I'm dealing with wet hops...Cascades did not get sprayed and look wonderful : )
Had a good crop of spider mites myself but got after them early so it's looking good except for the Columbus. Yielded the best last year then crashed this year, had to replant for next season.
I think that in Hops, Steele says that Russian River is looking for OG at 30min left in the boil, since the moisture left in the wet hops will make up for boil-off of the last half hour.
Hops do hang onto a lot of wort so one time after the wort had cooled and was mostly in a fermenter I put on surgical gloves, had a solution of stars San to sterilize, then grabbed double hand hulls of hops squeezed the hard. Super yellow wort came out which probably contributes to hop haze but the taste is wonderful, and I have more beer. Hop squeeze is on wet hopped brew only unless I am making a TH 3 which is a overdriven IPA.
Centennial and some chinook. Just had a death in the family though, may have to leave the back gate open for my neighbor to harvest them instead.
When dry hopping with wet hops, how long do you typically leave them in the beer? I want to avoid any vegetal off flavors.
