Do you rack single IPA to a secondary?

You will say the same thing again when you start dry hopping in a keg. Then you will wonder why you waited so long to buy a keg. Then you will think of Brew_Betty's beard during a bittersweet epiphany.

 

Most people do a secondary...a keg or bottle that is kept at ferment temps for at least a week or two after primary, but in most cases, an additional one (tertiary) is just asking for trouble, imho.

 

BB, can you describe your schedule for dry hopping in a keg? I do not bottle and would like to skip secondary for my next IPA.

 

Really? You don't bottle...so you must keg...and you are not dryhopping in the keg currently? WTF???

 

Interesting statement. My standard procedure is to immediately chill my kegs after transferring from the primary. I do typically condition the beer in the primary for three weeks before kegging. Cheers!

 

Correct, why? I've only brewed four batches and of those four only one was an IPA. I'm still learning.

 

Check gravity after 10 days. If the FG is within 2 points of where it should be, then transfer the beer to a keg. Before transferring, get your hop bags ready.

Boil hop bags and 316 stainless steel ball bearings or lead free glass marbles in dechlorinated water for 10 minutes. Put hop bags in a sanitized container. Wash hands with antibacterial soap. Dip hands in starsan. Insert up to 2oz of hops per bag. The amount of weight you use depends on what you use for weight. Ideally, the bags will sink at first and rise later. Using weight isn't required, but many find it to be useful.

Purge keg with co2. Transfer beer. Insert hops. Some people prefer to put the hops in first then purge the keg before transferring the beer. Do whatever seems most convenient. Close lid and purge headspace 5x with co2 to remove air. Add 25psi of co2 and disconnect co2. Check for leaks. Dry hop for 5-7 days at room temperature. Remove the hops with tongs. Purge headspace. Cold carbonate.

Some people prefer not to remove the dry hops from the keg. They either let them float or use some floss to suspend them a foot or two away from the top of the keg. I've been happy with the results from removing the hops.

There are many ways to dry hop in the keg. All of them are better than dry hopping in a secondary.

 

No secondary. Primary for 10-14 days, dry hop for 5-7. Package.

 

Thanks! For other beers after you keg do you still go the route of 25 psi, disconnect, and store at room temperature or is that only when you dry hop? Once I transfer to keg I have been putting the keg in my keezer and leaving it connect to co2 until carbonated.

 

The 25 psi, disconnect and warm storage is only for the dry hopped beers. Beers that don't get dry hopped tend to stay in the primary longer, then get kegged, chilled and slowly carbonated.

 

Thanks BB, as always you're information has been tremendously helpful!

 

The 25psi won't fully carb the beer. Its there to keep the lid sealed and the o2 out. It should psst a little when you pull the pressure release valve before you open the lid. If not, you had a leak. It will carb it a little and you might notice the beer gets slow carbed in the fridge a few days sooner than usual.