First homebrew/Hefeweizen questions

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by VolMD, Feb 2, 2016.

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  1. VolMD

    VolMD Initiate (0) Feb 2, 2016 Virginia

    Hello to all beer lovers and thanks to those that help answer some questions I have about my first homebrew.

    On the 31st I brewed my first beer, a Bavarian Hefeweizen extract kit from Northern Brewer. Everything went great, the only hiccup was not having a wort chiller, therefore making my wort take FOREVER to cool. I pitched the yeast about 71 degrees and I currently have the ambient air temp around 68. I like the banana notes and have read that a higher ferment temp will produce such a flavor.

    I used Wyeast 3068 and within 12 hours I had to switch from an airlock to a blowoff tube as the krausen was bubbling up through. This lasted for about 24 hours and now the brew is sitting happily in the fermenter, although the bubbling has slowed down significantly. So here are a couple questions I have.

    - I have the ambient temp at 68, but I know the process of fermentation is exothermic and will raise the temp inside the fermentor. Is ambient 68 a good temp to ensure the internal temp is above 70?

    - I know wheat beer yeasts are vigorous, especially the 3068 which I used. When should I worry about taking a hydrometer reading? 1 week, 2 weeks into primary fermentation?

    - Any other tips/tricks you guys/gals have to offer for Hefeweizen would be awesome.

    Again, thanks to those that respond!!
     
  2. Brew_Betty

    Brew_Betty Initiate (0) Jan 5, 2015 Wisconsin

    Internal temperature for a sub 7% beer can be 2-5F higher than ambient.

    Take a gravity reading at 10 days and 14 days. If the two readings are the same and near the anticipated FG, the beer is done fermenting.
     
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  3. VolMD

    VolMD Initiate (0) Feb 2, 2016 Virginia

    Thanks! Sounds good. So it sounds like if I'm shooting for >70 ferment temp that ambient 68 should do the trick.
     
  4. Brew_Betty

    Brew_Betty Initiate (0) Jan 5, 2015 Wisconsin

    Yes, it very likely fermented in the low 70s. You should have plenty of banana. If the beer gives you a headache after a few pints, you fermented too hot.
     
  5. VolMD

    VolMD Initiate (0) Feb 2, 2016 Virginia

    I have a basement room that is a constant 64. Would you recommend I move the fermenter there to keep the internal temp closer to 70?
     
  6. Brew_Betty

    Brew_Betty Initiate (0) Jan 5, 2015 Wisconsin

    The answer depends on what your internal temp is. The temperature boost lasts about 3-4 days. Measure the internal temp, if it's hotter than 72, then consider moving it.
     
  7. VolMD

    VolMD Initiate (0) Feb 2, 2016 Virginia

    That makes sense. I have a thermometer strip on the outside of the fermenter but its reading between 64 and 68 so I'm not sure how trustworthy it is. I have a digital thermometer sitting on top if the bucket. I might as well take the top off and drop a sanitized thermometer in to get a true reading.
     
  8. VolMD

    VolMD Initiate (0) Feb 2, 2016 Virginia

    Would it be OK if I transferred to a secondary fermenter about 7 days in to free up my primary fermenter for starting another batch? All I have is a 5 gallon carboy and I am too afraid to primary ferment in it since there won't be much head space.
     
  9. GetMeAnIPA

    GetMeAnIPA Pooh-Bah (2,559) Mar 28, 2009 California
    Pooh-Bah

    I wouldn't. I wouldn't do a secondary and just go straight to bottling. Transfering will cause oxygen pickup and exposes your beer to risks. I would rather wait until the beer is ready to bottle and not rush it. Once you confirm fermentation is complete wait a few days for the yeast to clean up.

    Headspace doesn't matter in the primary. I used my 6 gallon fermenter to brew 2.5 gallons all the time. Headspace is important if you are doing a secondary.

    Many of my 5% - 6% beers go from primary to the keg in 10 - 14 days, many fActors can change that timeframe though.

    Whenever I let the beer mature and condition properly it always returns better beer. Patience is a very important attribute in homebrewing.
     
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  10. VolMD

    VolMD Initiate (0) Feb 2, 2016 Virginia

    Thanks for the tips. I was mainly going to auto-siphon to the 5 gallon carboy to free up the 6.5 gallon bucket. I suppose I will let this one sit until fermentation is complete then transfer. I'll invest in another fermenter, more than likely a 6 gallon glass carboy so I can have two batches going at once. I appreciate your advice!
     
  11. VikeMan

    VikeMan Grand Pooh-Bah (3,067) Jul 12, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah

    If you go glass, get a 6.5 gallon carboy rather than 6. The extra half gallon of headspace will often be the difference between having blowoff and not. Plastic carboys like Better Bottles are AFAIK not available in 6.5 gallons.
     
  12. drinkybanjo

    drinkybanjo Crusader (457) Sep 4, 2008 New Jersey

    You can get Northern Brewers Big Mouth Bubbler at 6.5 gallons and that is available in plastic.
     
  13. scottakelly

    scottakelly Maven (1,487) May 9, 2007 Ohio

    Why do you want to go glass? It obviously has its followers, but for primary I think more people prefer not to use glass than prefer to because of it's drawbacks.
     
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  14. VolMD

    VolMD Initiate (0) Feb 2, 2016 Virginia

    I guess I should re-phrase. I'm not opposed to plastic at all. I was just making generalizations I suppose. I have seen the big mouth bubblers and they look like an excellent product. Is there any worry with smell or taste retention in the plastic from fermenting in them? What are the drawbacks of glass? Is it because they are breakable?
     
  15. PapaGoose03

    PapaGoose03 Grand High Pooh-Bah (6,057) May 30, 2005 Michigan
    BA4LYFE Society Pooh-Bah

    Breakable, heavy and harder to clean.
     
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  16. VikeMan

    VikeMan Grand Pooh-Bah (3,067) Jul 12, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah

    I haven't used a big mouth bubbler, so take this with a grain of salt, but I have heard people complain about the lids on them not being very airtight.

    That's really the only drawback. I treat glass carboys as if they will break (use a brewhauler, handle with gloves), and haven't had one break. But if one does, I should be safe enough.
     
  17. VolMD

    VolMD Initiate (0) Feb 2, 2016 Virginia

    So if you were to recommend a fermenter, what would it be? Plastic or glass carboy, or plastic fermenting bucket? Thanks for the advice.
     
  18. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Grand Pooh-Bah (3,375) Dec 15, 2005 Pennsylvania
    Society Pooh-Bah

    Another option is a 7.9 gallon bucket. It has plenty of head space; I have never had to install a blowoff tube with my buckets.

    http://www.northernbrewer.com/7-9-gal-fermenting-bucket

    Cheers!
     
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  19. TimoP

    TimoP Initiate (0) Oct 19, 2011 Pennsylvania

    I have a big mouth bubbler, the lid seals fine and the large opening makes it much easier to clean. ALTHOUGHHHH, the person that thought it was a good idea to make those dimples all over the carboy, should try using the product first before mass producing it. The dimples make it harder to clean, with a cloth easily gliding over the dimples without removing everything found inside them. A smooth surface is easier to clean, it's that simple. Just don't let beer sit in your carboy too long if you can, the harder it is stuck to the sides, the harder you need to work in those dimples. They suck.:angry:
     
  20. VikeMan

    VikeMan Grand Pooh-Bah (3,067) Jul 12, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah

    I would recommend glass, for its oxygen impermeability and because you can get it in a 6.5 gallon size. But only if you take proper precautions.
     
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