Northeast Pales/IPA/DIPA

Sounds outrageous and awesome. I've never used 12 oz of dry hops for 5 gallons but I love centennial for bittering. At that gravity with that much dry hops you probably don't need any bittering hops at all and I would make sure not to leave the hops on too long in either dryhopping unless the keg is secondary in a fridge. Have fun

 

My intention is adding the first dry hop in the primary towards the end of fermentation, then racking to secondary and dry hopping for 4-5, then cold crashing to bottle (still thinking this over too since the idea is to be hazy, but it sounds like most likely it will be hazy regardless)

Think shifting some of the weight to a whirlpool addition would be better? Maybe 3oz whirlpool, 3oz 1st dry, 3 oz 2nd dry?

This is my first time not following a kit so it may get interesting

 

Well, here is my first stab at a NEIPA. I used bits and pieces of info gleaned from this thread. I cut my city water by half with distilled, to drop my HC03 down to 175, then added salt additions to get around 125 Cl and 60 SO4. Added 5ml of lactic acid to the mash to keep the pH at 5.5.

Grain bill consisted of GW 2-row, rye and wheat malt, and a touch of carafoam. Conan for the yeast. I used a butt-ton of azzaca, equinox and galaxy hops in the whirlpool (after cooling to 170°F), and a butt-ton more in a two-stage dry hop, the first dose in the primary after 2 days into fermentation, and the second dose in a purged keg. First time using that hop combo.

It definitely looks the part and think the mouthfeel is spot on. It's still a little young, only been in the keg for 5 days, and I find most of my IPAs come into their own after a week or two, but I'm happy with the hop character, and the bitterness is very similar to Julius, where it is complimentary to the "juicy"-ness but drops off quickly, and doesn't linger.

 

Damn -- that's gorgeous.

 

If NE pale /IPA is what u are going for -- suggest adding a pound of dried wheat malt extract and reducing the crystal to 1/4 lb ....steeping it w 1/4 lb of carpils.

 

Some people like more dry hops than whirlpool but I generally use about equal amounts generally 5 oz per 5

 

In addition to what @chipawayboy said, switch to DME and replace some of the light extract with wheat DME and sugar.

 

I'll jump on the dogpile and also suggest using some wheat LME. Maybe 6# pilsner/extra light LME and 3# wheat LME.
If you can get it, I'd do 3# Marris Otter LME, 3# Pilsner DME, 3# Wheat DME and reduce the Crystal to 4oz.

 

If we keep this thread going...maybe someday they will decide this is a style.... and not just a bunch of dip shits adding oats and stupid amounts of hops at flameout/dry hop.


I wonder if this is how the Cascadian Black ale/ Black IPA/ Hoppy Black Ale STYLE was born??

 

A couple things that stand out to me are the crystal malt, and lack of flavor hops. When using lme you need to find out the grain bill for that extract. Some lme has some crystal added for color and flavor already.when I do extract batches I use pilsen dme and build off of that. As for the. Hop schedule, I would take a couple oz from the dry hop schedule and toss em in at 15 minutes.

 

dont bother with secondary. You want those yeast hop biotransformations.

 

Could you go into more detail of your grain bill? That looks amazing.

 

10.5 lbs GWM 2-Row Brewers Malt
5 lbs Briess Red Wheat Malt
2 lbs Briess Rye Malt
8 oz Carafoam

 

do you have a reference to where I can find this index?

 

Here's my version, 5 months in the keg. Still nice and hazy. Cheers!

 

If you mean a big list of hops with their haze indexes, it hasn't been published.

 

so sad. do you have a shortened list by chance?

 

I could be wrong but I believe late addition/dry hopping with high oil content hops will add to the haze factor.

 

http://www.alesoftheriverwards.com/2016/03/the-haze-averse-why-is-everyone-so.html?m=1

New post on @Coff 's blog.... Really a nice description of what's happening in the craft beer world regarding these damn hazy beers that are brewed by Nimrods for Nimrods.

 

"The way these beers are constructed produce a beer with haze that I see as a necessary evil to achieve a certain character, which is fruity/tropical, lowly bitter and supremely drinkable...and yes, Hazy." -blogger who uses the word butthurt in the title of his beerbro blog post

False. Beer doesn't need to be hazy to be any of the above.