homegrown hops 2016

My buddy has been growing hops in his yard for over 15 years. About 10 years ago he got a rhizome from Yakima and planted it, but it had Downey Mildew. It spread to many of his plants and infected the rhizomes. He burns back the initial shoots because any time the Downey Mildew shows up is in the earlier shoots where there is still a fair amount of rain to feed the disease. Once it starts to dry up and warm up by end of May he doesn't have any issues with the Mildew, and can control it easier with copper sprays. Since I got most of my rhizomes from him, I do the same thing to ensure health.

 

This is probably why there are quarantines between Oregon, Washington, and Idaho...not a problem in NV . I don't think there is a way to get rid of the viral infections though, without ripping out all infected plants,

 

Yep. We just deal with it by burning them back until the weather gets nicer.

 

Slides 7-11 or so show what happens.
http://careyinstitute.org/wp-conten...ifying-and-Managing-Diseases-of-Hops.pptx.pdf

 

Jeff, thanks for that link!!

This is the first time I have read about hop spikes (slide 10). There is a photograph of healthy shoots on slide 11.

So, it the idea to burn down the hop spikes? Do the hop farmers also burn down the healthy shoots as well? If so, is the concept to be 'better safe than sorry' and just burn down all first growth?

Cheers!

 

OK, if I'm reading the slides correctly, I think I was pretty close to the mark. Fungal diseases (which are pretty much non- existant where I live) can be controlled partially by some early pruning, but the viral ones are go/no go in that selection and certification of rhizomes appears to be key. Spider mites are the only pests I have to deal with usually and only after it gets really warm (late July/Aug.) Aphids seem to only appear when I go too crazy with the fertilizer (as mentioned in your PowerPoint).

On a side note: Yakima is not in New York Thanks for the info though, Jeff.

 

That was what came up in a search, it addressed your question. Like I said, 1500 miles or so from my notes.

 

From what I gather is they do the fields, for plant health and for the ease of harvest. If a bine goes over and/or wraps the wire it makes harvest difficult. They want the bine to fall onto the truck when the top cutter goes through.

 

Having grown hops in the muggy midwest since the late 80's (hobby grower with 40-50 plants max), I can tell you that downy mildew can destroy certain varieties if not managed properly and that removing the first growth works really well as a means to reduce inoculum. Most all of my early knowledge came from Dave Wills (Freshops) and some grower friends of his in the Willamette Valley along with the 'Ralphs' from Hopunion (when it was known as that). Recently, with all the renewed interest in growing hops back east, there's been much more information available like this excellent piece: http://www.usahops.org/userfiles/image/1457307897_4.HopFieldGuide3rdEdition-Disease_Management.pdf.

In the past 10 or so years, I'd been having some issues controlling downy and 3 years ago it came to a head. The following spring I decided to do a 'cleansing crowning' to a very sentimental plant I've had since '87-'88 maybe? http://allaboutbeer.com/canadian-red-vine/
This was the source of my problems as the downy was systemic, so dug a trench around the crown and cut off about the uppermost 8 inches of it, not really concerned if it would come back or not as I never used it for brewing but it was the first "known" variety of hop I ever obtained. Well, it took about a month longer than all the others to come up but it did and there were almost no issues with downy last year (even with some really favorable weather conditions for the disease). This was actually a concern because I rely on the yearly round of downy to be used to inoculate my seedlings to check for disease tolerance, finally found some in June though!

As always, disease control/management requires a multi-pronged approach to be really successful. Hoppy Trails~

 

Well, look to see that the tips of the bine are intact, we are only A little more than a week until the solstice, so you won't lose too much growth. They had hail earlier in AU last year and had a 40% loss.

 

If you don't have too many plants, pick off the punched leafs. Less chance for fungle infection.

 

My third year cascade and centennials are coming in hearty! Columbus is only on its first year but still going strong. I don't really know which is which anymore but the 3 Cs are always good together in an IPA so I'll just pick em all and do mixed blend hop additions.

 

Here are mine, going to be first year crossing the top:

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I designed and built the pergola, bench and raised bed myself. Go for it!!!

 

The design plan was to make sure I gave people enough head room to clear the diagonal bracing. So I think I used 4" x 4" x 10' post, which with two 2" x 6" horizontals stacked on top of each other and 3' diagonal height would give me 6' clearance, missing the height of most people. Since I have the stringers going at an angle, I think the hop run length is 11.5'ish before making it to the top. Then running across the horizontal 12' for a max run length 24'; hope my description makes sense.

 

Mine are making their way. Hard to see, but the Cascade's (3rd over from the left) have reached the top, and I will start training them along the sides of the top rope.