Bamberg/Nurnberg/Munich trip report

Similar to our experience, except it was pretty cold and windy, no rain. The service was indifferent, but we were there just after they opened, and there was only one other table. The other table had the indifferent service too. Löwenbrau was closed also.

Waiting on the train back to Bamberg, we ducked into the little drinker by the tracks (too much beer). It was working class basic, but they had Löwenbrau, and the Wert liked my wife and we got great service!

 

I was riding my bike from Bamberg once and a storm came up and I ducked in to that place (Backstahäusla, I think) to wait for the storm to pass. A couple of Brits who where clearly out hiking came in a bit later (and wetter). After talking it turns out we had a mutual acquaintance in LA (a friend of his and I had met a couple of times at an Irish pub). The world is truly small

 

Erlkoenig is Bambergs newest brewery. And, well, it's kind of a modern-style, hip brewpub with pulled pork on the menu, they brew an "american pale ale" and an "european amber lager", served in tekus, all in a modern, urban-ish enviroment. Yay.
I mean don't get me wrong I haven't had their beers, from what I hear they aren't bad, but, the concept feels so generic and by the numbers to me, and that in a city with such a living , vibrant brewing heritage and beer culture.
At least they also make a rauchbier...called "ebony smoke touch"...

I think you did well concentrating on the traditional places the first time around.
I'd definetly suggest Forchheim and its nice Kellerwald for the next time.

 

That's the thing, those places are becoming kind of the same, the world over. I mean with the "older" generation of new, hip brewpubs, it was at least somewhat unique. Take Braustelle in Köln Ehrenfeld,for instance, it feels inside somewhat authentic. I mean even not seeing the brewing equipment in the back you could go in there and think yeah, this is a nice place with a unique vibe. I think I want to have a beer here. With most "newer",american inspired places, its more often than not a cause of deja vu...

 

We were at the Kellerwald in November, not much was open, but we had a few beers and enjoyed it. At Bräuerie Neder in town, we had OK service, but we were stared at by the clientele, and felt like Auslanders. We used to live in Germany, and usually don't get that. On our way out we chatted a little with the table of young people in the Schwimme that were well on their way to over indulging (the wife said that is where we should have been). Had a warmer reception at Hebendanz, and stayed longer.

 

My gal and I had the exact same experience at Neder in April. The odor of many unwashed asses was quite pungent. We found the one open table and I've never seen my gal knock down a beer so fast before we left. Fantastic house beer as well unfortunately.

 

Erlkoenig is interesting. If it were in Frankfurt (or even LA) you'd say "this place isn't too bad..." The Pale Ale was decent as was the "Ebony Smoke Touch" (really more a smoked porter than a Rauchbier). The lagers need some work -- more time is the lager tank I'd say. Far better than the typical German brewpub (sadly, Ambräusianum is more typical there). I didn't eat but the food smelled really good (mostly Flammkuchen). Being in Gaustadt it is clearly not targeting tourists -- or us (The only time I am in Gaustadt is on my way to/from Bischberg )

 

That's the thing, it sounds like it belongs in any other european city, and if it were located in my current home city, I'd surely drop by for an Ale or two.
But.......in Bamberg?
And.....with lagers, that NEED WORK, as you say, right in the heart where the best traditional lagers in the world are made?
Sounds......weird to me.
I was not aware that it is in Gaustadt of all places. Only time I was there was when a ride(Mitfahrgelegenheit) dropped me of there..

 

Erlkoenig is owned by -- and its beers brewed by -- Kaiserdom, correct?

 

Interesting. Never heard of Erlkoenig before. Looks like their menu would fit right in over here in the US. When did they open?

 

Yes and no. Yes,it is owned by someone from Kaiserdom, but they have their own brewkit which they use to make the beers..

They opened in march this year.

BTW, am I the only one who thinks the regular Kaiserdom beers aren't that bad, and mainly suffer from bad image from the old bamberg natives?
I always found Alt-Bamberg Dunkel to be pretty enjoyable...

 

I think Kaiserdom beers are pretty solid. They don't taste as "rustic" as most of the other stuff in town, but they're super dialed-in and borderline flawless technically.

 

"...the cathedral, very nice in a jesusy sort of way, a dead pope and a bloke on a horse..."

Classic! If I ever toured with you, @gavinbrooksbank , I think I'd be pissing my pants...

Cheers!

 

Kaiserdom Rauchbier (no longer brewed, I believe) was the first Rauchbier I ever tried. It was bottled and imported to the U.S. back in the mid-80s (not sure for how long) ...and it nearly scared me away from Bamberg forever.

Fortunately, Bamberg (its lovely self) turned me around.

 

Maybe the stuff they made in the 80ies was dreadfull, even moreso when they exported it overseas..Easy to imagine
But nowadays?
I mean when I was studying in the region and money-whise it looked tight, I often opted for Alt-Bamberg Dunkel, which was tasty,flawless as Domingo said, and in one of my favorite styles- and way cheaper than anything else.
I never found something wrong with them, and I never had a bad bottle, which with other breweries there simply happens from time to time (ok,I never had a bad Schlenkerla there as well..)

 

Kaiserdom is great beer...sometimes lost in a sea of truly excellent (and similarly inexpensive) beer.