Professional Electrician for new eBIAB setup?

Probably. It's a simple procedure to see if the circuits selected can support the load(s).

Zero percent. But GFCIs fail occasionally (usually shut down the entire operation) . . . I had to replace one recently.

 

Welcome to this great hobby, @wfumed2. There was a recent thread on electric system and the wiring needed for them, etc. Here is a link to a search that I did of thread titles that use 'electric' in the wording. It looks like several threads will be good reading for you. http://www.beeradvocate.com/community/search/32666372/?q=Electric&o=date&c[title_only]=1&c[node]=8

Good luck on getting the system up and running.

 

I feel that my life is always at least in a heightened state of danger during brew day.

Welcome to the addiction.

 

Well, if you use a toaster or a hair dryer or anything else that uses electricity there is a risk of electric shock.
GFI circuits are the best protection and are required by NEC in many instances, an electric boil kettle being one of them.

You have dual 1500 watt immersion coils? That is 13.5 amps each. Most household circuits are 15 amp and some are 20 amp. Either way you are drawing a lot of electricity and will need probably two dedicated circuits. Hiring a licensed electrician in this instance is a good idea if you don't have the knowledge or confidence to check your circuits capacity as well as its loading. You might be looking at two new circuits.

As for safety, if it's UL approved, and properly wired, and used correctly, virtually no electrical hazards. Driving to pick up grain is orders of magnitude more dangerous.
Hope his helps.
Cheers.

 

Yeah, I have the same system. You need to run it on two separate circuits, so you will probably need to invest in a quality extension cord.
As for getting an inspection, I'd say as long as you're using GFCI outlets it isn't really necessary.
Personally, I brew on my kitchen counter with the controller and pump plugged in there, with an extension cord running into the nearest bathroom for the second heating element.

 

My basic knowledge of electricity tells me that you are playing with fire when using an extension cord when operating a resistance type of appliance at the other end. The farther that the electricity has to travel through an extension cord, the more resistance will be created. I would at least keep feeling that extension cord to see if it is heating up when you use it as described.

I may be getting in over my head here, but to describe a "quality" extension cord as being needed can be troublesome too. If your house uses 14-gauge wiring on a circuit but you plug in a 12-gauge extension cord because you think the 12-gauge makes it "quality" is possibly a recipe for disaster.

OP, hire a pro and tell them what you want to operate on that circuit is the best advice. They'll know what type of circuit can handle what you're going to plug in there.

 

12 gauge is thicker than 14 gauge, so given the same length of wire 12 gauge is rated for higher amps. 10 gauge is thicker still, etc. All the way to 0000. Quality beyond gauge is important too, but that comes down to the jacket material, durability, color, etc.
Most household wiring is 14 gauge copper and 15 amp circuit. Some is 12 gauge copper with 15 amps circuit, but 20 amp circuits can be used with 12 gauge wire. And there is others as well. Older aluminum, etc.

So, hire an electrician.
Cheers.

 

As regards a 'quality' extension cord you simply need to buy a cord that is properly rated (e.g., for 15 A). If you have a 15 A circuit and a heavy duty extension cord then you are 'good to go' as regards to operating one heating unit.

Here is an example of a heavy duty extension cord you could buy at Home Depot: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-25...rd-with-Standard-Plug-747-123025H31/205377790

Or alternatively you could give your money to an electrician if that aids your ability to sleep at night.

Cheers!

 

I recently started playing with an ebiab system in my home. I'm not trained as an electrician but I did some basic things before I started. I tested the ground faults and made sure I knew which breakers on my circuit panel were relevant and I knew they met the amp requirements. On my first brew day, I learned that my toaster oven was on the same circuit. Outside of having to eat raw toast, I didn't have any problems.

 

It's called 'bread'

 

No worries if you know the size of copper wire, GFI status, and breaker in your branch circuit(s) is matched and dedicate it to brewing beer (at least when you are brewing beer) ...AND use a short and beefy (low AWG) extention cord AND don't drink while you brew (or post)

 

But maybe he has a vivid imagination based on the intent.

 

Just trying to make funny wordplay - grateful it didn't go unnoticed

 

Follow the advice on the webiste. As long as the elements aren't on the same circuit breaker. You're nearly set to go. Be careful as to what else is plugged in to them because that's where you'll run into issues with drawing too much power and creating havoc. i.e. keep them away from nearly everything you have plugged in in the kitchen and probably keep them off of extension chords unless they are rated to handle it.
Now for the part of the post that you will probably not enjoy reading.
I also sort of think that that amount of power with dual elements is complete overkill for the size of the system you are using. It's been very over-engineered for what it is supposed to actually do, and it seems an awful lot of the websites language also insists that you really almost never need to use the second element unless you are really in a hurry to get to strike temp, and it instructs you quite succinctly to only draw 50% of that single element during your boil. And for good reason. The quality of your beer. Honestly. With that small of a batch. It does not take long, and if you enjoy hot showers. Turn your water heater up so that your hot water temp is in the 120's. You have most of the legwork already done for you and hitting strike temp is a matter of minutes. Even on a stove top.

 

You will need to buy two GFCI (Ground Fault Current Interrupter) adapters, 20 amp. Your Kitchen and Laundry room are required to be 20 Amp, The kitchen is required to have two 20 amp circuits. When I rewired mine I put one phase on the top and the other on the bottom so all I have to do is swap from top to bottom if overloaded. I have a 10 gallon Brew-Boss kettle and only use one 1,650w, 120v (13.75 amps) heater element and use the second port for my future site glass (blocked off now for lack of funds.) I also use 2 of my gas burners for BTU boost until 5 deg F below strike temp then turn them off and let the electric take over and maintain. This also gives me the range hood for venting the vapors. (Keep the underside of the hood clean or you will be steam cleaning it and having unwanted grease dripping into your kettle) The controller I made using the Brew-Boss control module has two GFCI breakers built in before going to any switches in it.

 

Of each outlet? Wow, how handy is that?!

 

Also #12 gauge wire is good for 25 amps but is required to be protected at 20 amps. To get amps from watts. Amps= Watts/Volts.