Northeast Pales/IPA/DIPA

Can you post your recipe?

 

Already did a few posts ago: Northeast Pales/IPA/DIPA

 

thank you, looks delicious. do you get the vienna character coming through at all?

 

I do! I get a slight cracker note in there, which is typical of Vienna. Also of course some wheat character. Together, they compliment each other really nicely.

 

Hey thank you for sharing your experience and knowledge! I had a question...the water profile you provided for this recipe...is that your tap water profile? did you filter your water or make any salt/mineral additions during the brew day or did you just use your plain ol' tap water? Thanks again for sharing.

 

No problem! That is my tap water I run thru a charcoal faucet filter with gypsum additions for the sulfate and calcium. Along with campden of course. Also used phosphoric acid for the mash pH adjustment.

I had a glass today of that APA and it is clearing some (I also used a taller skinny sample glass, so maybe that is part of the reason it looked clearer). So it looks like it won't maintain the haze like my previous one with the S-04. Surprised given just how turbid it was a few days ago. I'll give an update pic this weekend to show the status!

 

Cool, so your existing tap water has 360 ppm SO4 and then you add gypsum to increase the SO4?? How much are you adding and what is the overall target value of SO4 are you trying to reach? Also when do you add it to the brew process...during mash, boil, ect...? Thanks dude!

 

@nattydreadlock

My tap water starts out at:
Ca - 37
Mg -10
Na - 15
SO4 - 30
Cl - 20
Bicarb - 128

I then use Bru'n Water to build my profile. My final profile was:

Ca - 175
Mg -10
Na - 15
SO4 - 362
Cl - 20
Bicarb - 24.8

This was done by adding the minerals to my mash/sparge water prior to heating them up... This included something like 10g gypsum and 25.6 mL of 10% phosphoric acid to the mash water and 10.5g of gypsum and 12.9 mL of phosphoric acid to my sparge water. This will vary a little depending on your grain bill and mash thickness. Phosphoric acid was used to bring pH down to 5.3 and was confirmed with my pH meter.

 

Right on! I do BIAB, and so I do full volume mash and then straight to boil. Gonna see how it turns out. Thanks again.

 

Citra and Galaxy Pale Ale

 

So an update to my beer... It cleared a little bit, but still quite hazy and you can't see anything thru it.

 

I fermented this one at 64F… Pitched yeast at around the same temperature. After about 5 days, raised temp to 66F or so to finish out. I then cold crashed to 35F, slowly, dropping about 5F every 12hrs. Once at 35F, let sit for two days or so before allowing it to rise back to ambient temp. This is when I dry hopped the beer. After 5 days at room temp, cold crashed again to 35-40F and then kegged the beer.

I ferment in standard buckets with a spigot. Spigot allows me to transfer without using a siphon which I like. Keg is purged with CO2 a few times before I rack into it from the primary. Once the lid is sealed, I will purge the headspace another 5 times or so to ensure I get as much O2 out as possible. Then I carb up and serve.

I thought cold crashing prior to my dry hop this time would clarify the beer more, but it didn't do much at all in terms of reducing the haze. So my next DIPA (a legit NE IPA) will have all the late, whirlpool and dry hop goodness going on. Still using the cali ale yeast though, again.

 

I have a few questions about your cold crashing procedure. What kind of airlock do you use? Or do you remove it? Also are you using CO2 at all to transfer to the keg. I'm curious if you are taking any steps to prevent oxidation during the cold crash and transfer.

Happy brewing, beer looks great and sounds like something I wish I had in my hand right now.

 

For cold crashing, if I had a blowoff on the fermenting bucket I switch to a "S" bubbler first. I have noticed if I cold crash slowly, at least the times I take a peak, that the airlock is still biased toward being positive pressure. I assume as the beer continues to off-gas a bit from fermentation. I have not seen it sucking back in the opposite way, again, the times I have looked. I fill my airlock with starsan, so if any makes it into the beer, the minuscule amount it would be, I don't worry about it.

No, I don't use CO2 to transfer at all. When the beer has crashed to desired temp (usually 35F or so), when I take the bucket out and move it to the table that I will transfer from. As it begins to warm slightly, it will blow off very quickly as CO2 comes out of solution. This goes on for about 20mins or so while I grab my tubing and sanitize my keg and such, so the entire head space of the bucket should be nearly all CO2 (I would think).

I use a spigot on my bucket, so I simply hook up my tubing and rack into my CO2 purged keg. I stop the transfer before the beer level reaches the spigot (and induces air/co2/whatever), so there really isn't any aeration or oxygenation going on as it's just a solid fluid flow (thanks to gravity).

I have never had signs of oxidized beer, that I have noticed, in any of my stuff. I have picked it up a few times in commercial beer, so I want to say I can at least notice it if it was. My last DIPA tasted just as great 3 months later as it did fresh, with no darkening or loss of flavor/aroma. So that is a good sign, I think! haha

 

they also taste absolutely nothing like Tree House or Trillium.

 

My comment had more to do with the use of an english yeast strain netting a clear ipa, and wasn't in any way related to trillium or any other NEIPA... soooooo.......

 

Dude, don't you know the IPA wasn't invented until 2013.

 

Lagunitas filters all of their IPAs so that is where the clarity comes from. These beers can be filtered even though they are difficult to filter due to all the protein and glucans.

 

Is Firestone using an English strain as well?