Northeast Pales/IPA/DIPA

I'm using Wyeast 1318, second dry hop in fermenter, same schedule, I oz. galaxy, mosaic, citra. Going through diacetyl rest right now, holding at 72 F. Will remove hops and start cold crash on Friday night. I am going to BOTTLE this one on Sunday as a test to see how aroma holds up.

 

Interested to hear back on the results and taste!

 

Anyone else notice a huge difference in krausen when using fermcap with 1318? I recently started using fermcap to keep the boil under control, but noticed I don't need the blow off any longer. Before fermcap it would spew out of my 6.5g carboy, now it only grows a couple inches. CO2 is still blowing off like crazy, but no krausen overflow

 

yes, absolutely. I can go to 6 gallons in my 6.5 gallon bucket w/ fermcap

 

I have always used fermcap and still need a blowoff when fermenting 5.5 gallons in a 7.5 gallon vintners harvest bucket.
#superstarter

 

Interesting. I have only used it for the last two batches, but both have significantly less krausen vs before fermcap when using 1318. Too soon to say anything really, just was surprised both times now.

I always do a 1L starter and see fermentation kick off within 18 hours.

 

So this beer finished completely yesterday, so when my buddy was over yesterday we gave it a whirl. It completely nailed every aspect I was going for in this style. It’s got the beautiful haze and color, extremely intense aroma (you can literally smell it from the glass a foot or two away from your face) and honestly a beautiful balance of just enough bitterness, but still oh so juicy. It has those mango juice like flavor notes, but with dank and citrus in the background. It’s one damn awesome beer. I couldn’t be happier with the end result.

I had bottled up one bottle to take with us to a brewery that a relatively new friend works at that never had any of my homebrew prior. He is huge into all the NE DIPA’s as his favorite style and always trades for it. This was his comment/review on my beer once he got home and tried it:

“This beer is world class. No joke, if it was in a treehouse/trillium/other-half/alchemist can I wouldn’t know the difference. It smells and tastes like juice. I will pay money for more of this! haha”.

Needless to say, that was a pretty badass comment coming from him.

I would rebrew this beer with no changes at all to anything. It will be fun to experiment with the same grist/water/yeast but change up the type of hops. I have some awesome ideas for hop combos that would be unreal in this base.

 

Maybe my fermcap is old. I usually pitch a 1500 mL starter, but may start "under pitching" at the suggestion of others for more esters.

 

Anyone have an extract version to make a hazy ne style ipa? I've read over the thread but can't seem to find anything for us less experienced brewers.

 

Any of the recipes you've viewed should work by swapping in extract for base malt. Key points yeast wy1318 or 1098. Minimal bittering charge, copious late and dry hopping with new age fruity hops see Galaxy citra mosaic Equinox etc etc

 

Was thinking along lines of proper extract to use.

 

Briess golden light

 

Can you steep oats or do they require a mini mash?

 

It is 'best' to mash oats otherwise you will likely have starch in the finished beer. If you consume your beers quickly then the presence of the starch from the oats may not be a big issue.

Cheers!

 

How would the presence of starches effect the beer over time?

 

As homebrewers we practice sanitation (vs. sterilization) so there will always be some unwanted microorganisms (e.g., bacteria) in our beers. The presence of starch in the finished beer is providing a food source to those unwanted microorganisms. If you practice very good sanitation process the number of unwanted microorganisms will be low and hopefully it would take quite some time before you would notice any effects of those unwanted microorganisms propagating upon eating a food source (i.e., starch).

Would you notice any ill effects from this presence of starch? That is dependent on:

· How effective was your sanitation process?

· How long before you consume the beer (the development of off flavors or other effects take time)?

· How sensitive is your palate to the off flavors or whatever?

· Etc.

There is no way to definitively respond here due to these various factors.

Cheers!

 

But still very informative!

 

Most NE IPA recipes I've seen use some specialty grains you wouldn't want to steep. But consider doing a mini-mash of those grains along with about an equal amount of base malt. (You can get away with less base malt, depending on its diastatic power.) Then sub in light/extra light/pilsner DME for the rest of the base malt. (But don't sub in the DME pound for pound. Do the math.)

 

Pilsner dme males a great base, add in a mini mash utilizing some pils, oats or wheat, and a bit of vienna and you're there.

 

So I recently went to Foam, the hot new brewery in Burlington, and brought back some growlers. One of their beers, The Nameless, was almost identical to the NE IPA that I made last Decemeber, including the flaws. They had a slightly better malt backbone in theirs, but otherwise it was pretty uncanny how similar they were.

Unfortunately, after trying a bunch of NE IPAs lately, I'm starting to think that my favorite beers don't quite fall into the style the way we've been describing it. Something like Heady Topper is a stronger, more flavorful and assertive beer than a lot of the offerings I've had from places like Fiddlehead, Foam, Lush and Hill Farmstead. Not to say they're bad beers by any stretch, but they tend to be much lighter in flavor than Heady or, say, Second Fiddle, which aren't as juice-like (and which are two of my favorites of all-time). I wish I knew what the difference was, exactly, because that's the style I would like to brew at home and I don't really know how to get there yet.