English Barleywine questions

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by primrose54, May 11, 2017.

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  1. primrose54

    primrose54 Initiate (0) Apr 7, 2009 Ohio

    So this weekend I am brewing an English Barleywine and I have a few questions. Here's my recipe
    Malt
    O.G. 1.100
    F.G. 1.026
    IBU's 26
    Malt:
    25lbs Golden Promise
    2lbs wheat

    Hops 2.5 Mount Hood @ 60


    1. Yeast was slim pickings so I went with WL 005 and making a huge starter tonight (british ale yeast). Should I go out and buy some dry yeast?
    2. I was going to boil the shit out of the first runnings to get some nice caramel color/flavors. I was thinking 3 hours. Is this enough should I add any Cara III to darken it up?
    3. I was going to mash in two ten gallon coolers and boil in one large pot (10 gallons) this should not affect the beer in theory if I keep the temp the same?
     
    GreenKrusty101 likes this.
  2. GreenKrusty101

    GreenKrusty101 Initiate (0) Dec 4, 2008 Nevada

    I like to make a session beer first and then dump the cake into a barleywine, but you should be fine...some C-80 might help darken it up and give you a head start on the long boil...I don't think you'll need the 2nd mash tun, but it won't hurt (assuming a 5 gal batch)...good luck
     
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  3. FeDUBBELFIST

    FeDUBBELFIST Pooh-Bah (1,765) Oct 31, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah

    I like the recipe but the IBUs are way low. I'd go with 50 at a minimum.
     
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  4. GreenKrusty101

    GreenKrusty101 Initiate (0) Dec 4, 2008 Nevada

    Yes, 25 IBUs (35 considered minimum) is a little low even for an English Barleywine...but depending on the maltbill you might never know :slight_smile:
     
  5. premierpro

    premierpro Savant (1,060) Mar 21, 2009 Michigan

    WLP005 can floc too early in my experience with it. I would pair it with WLP007 or rouse the yeast after four or five days of active fermentation.
     
  6. csurowiec

    csurowiec Initiate (0) Mar 7, 2010 Maryland

    I think you need more IBUs to balance the malt. A friend did a barleywine recently and had good luck with taking a gallon or so of the first runnings and boiling it down to a quart or less while sparging then adding that reduction back at the start of the boil. If you want some color with almost no effect on flavor you could add 2oz of debittered black malt. It will give a nice reddish hue.
     
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  7. kkleu357

    kkleu357 Savant (1,170) Apr 2, 2014 Wisconsin
    Trader

    I did an english barleywine last year that people really loved. Actually had people offer to buy bottles off me. My IBU was around 60 and really can barely tell any bitterness is there. I also boiled the hell out of the 1st gallon running. Be careful, can boil over very easily. Would definitely recommend some darker malt as well. I put in some Carmel 120L. Color came out close to BCBW. Had no problem fitting 24.75 lbs of grain into my 10 gallon mash tun. Probably couldn't fit 27 lbs though, so that could be a problem. However, I ended up with an OG of 1.122 using less grain that you are, so if you are doing a 5 gallon batch, you could use less golden promise to make sure it fits in your mash tun. Just sparge very slow and you should be able to hit a fairly high efficiency. Also, if you do a 2 hour boil you'll be able to collect more wort and get a higher efficiency with less grain. Lastly, aging was the best thing for this beer. Was perfect after about 8 months after brew day.
     
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  8. Eggman20

    Eggman20 Crusader (433) Feb 14, 2017 Minnesota

    What Qt/Gallon ratio did you use for the mash? I just did a stout with 25 gallons at 1.22 and it came to the top of my 10 gallon cooler. Made it tough to stir it up so came a little low on my efficiency (65%) though it probably could have used more sparge water as well. Will be doing a barleywine soon so all this information has been very informative!
     
  9. kkleu357

    kkleu357 Savant (1,170) Apr 2, 2014 Wisconsin
    Trader

    1.25. I suppose saying no problem is sort of a stretch. my lid on the cooler goes inside it about 1 or so inches and I couldn't close it all the way. Probably got some extra room there.
     
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  10. kkleu357

    kkleu357 Savant (1,170) Apr 2, 2014 Wisconsin
    Trader

    Also, when you say huge starter, what do you mean? 5L starter? probably close to what you need. I did a 1L starter, stepped it up to 2L, then stepped it up to 4L. Also, shot pure oxygen into the fermenter. That's a pretty big step too.
     
  11. Eggman20

    Eggman20 Crusader (433) Feb 14, 2017 Minnesota

    I could close mine but had to gently stir the mash paddle or it would have overflowed. May try 1.15 when I do the Barleywine to give me more room and hopefully see a better efficiency.
     
  12. kkleu357

    kkleu357 Savant (1,170) Apr 2, 2014 Wisconsin
    Trader

    My girlfriend and I brew together which helps. She stirs the mash the whole time while I'm pouring in grains slowly, so we get it mixed in pretty well.
     
    FeDUBBELFIST likes this.
  13. GreenKrusty101

    GreenKrusty101 Initiate (0) Dec 4, 2008 Nevada

    A 10 gal mash cooler for a 5 gal batch of barleywine iis not really pushing the envelope unless you pushed the envelope on the OG :confused:...and besides....there's always a little dme to fill in the gaps :slight_smile:
     
  14. primrose54

    primrose54 Initiate (0) Apr 7, 2009 Ohio

    I have some mosaic could I bitter with that to get the IBU's up to 60ish (60 or 90)?
     
  15. FeDUBBELFIST

    FeDUBBELFIST Pooh-Bah (1,765) Oct 31, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah

    You could but you should save your mosaic for some late additions in an IPA or something similar.
     
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  16. Lukass

    Lukass Pooh-Bah (2,891) Dec 16, 2012 Ohio
    Pooh-Bah

    You can bitter with any hop, since the flavor/aroma will be completely gone after a 60 min boil. I'm with feDUBBELFIST though – if you can, save the mosaic for a beer where you can really benefit from it. Maybe Warrior or Columbus for bittering? If you absolutely can't get new hops in time then your mosaic will work just fine.
     
    Makubex likes this.
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