Balanced, hybrid-ish NE IPA?

Seems a little light not the finishing hops, although I don't know how to judge the hop powder.

 

Is this your first NEIPA homebrew?

One of the most critical parts of the process (IMO) is the temp of your whirlpool. From my experience, whirlpooling above 170F will cause some bitterness from the hops.

My process looks like this...
Cool to 170F. Whirlpool hops (in hop spider) for 20 minutes. Within that 20 minutes, the wort usually cools ~160. Add another charge of whirlpool hops (leaving previous hop debris in the spider) and whirlpool for another 20 minutes. I leave all of the hop debris in the wort while I cool to 70F, which is usually another 20 minutes. So I have about 60 minutes of contact time.

 

Hot Head drops clean...you may want to choose another yeast option if you want the haze. Omega Tropical IPA throws nice fruity notes and rarely drops clean, even if you're trying to get it to, and might be a better yeast choice. Besides that, I guess for 2.25 gallons, the hop amounts look good (I just used some Simcoe cryo hops/lupulin powder for a dry hopping and was disappointed with the aroma it gave the beer). I am not a big fan of Golden Naked Oats as it gives beer a much too sweet profile IMO, so I would personally drop that and replace it with another grain, or just go with GP and Flaked Oats...I'm a fan of some wheat in my NE IPAs, so I'd change the Naked Oats for White Wheat if it were my recipe.

 

I've stopped using any hops in my IPAs until < 180F. Works like a charm, IMO.

Bit complicated, that, but the general methodology is solid. Add hops while cooling and do a hopstand.

 

Personally, I'd drop the FWH and triple your whirlpool addition.

 

FWH is not an either/or proposition...if you want a "balanced, hybridish" NEPA, try bagging your small FWH bittering charge and pull it after you come to a boil...works great, imho...and yes, use a fairly huge whirlpool addition.

 

You'll still get bitterness even if your IBUs are lessened.

 

Dont be disappointed when your beer isnt hazy/a NE IPA then. The yeast not flocc'ing is important for the NE IPA characteristics.

As for the cryo hops...from this experience, I'd say that they just dont provide the same aroma as pellet hops. Used them the same as I have used hops for the past 2 decades, so I dont think its a process issue, just the nature of the ingredient IMO.

 

HUGELY important.

 

In all likelihood it is the other way around. For example Wyeast 1318 has high flocculation; below is from the Wyeast website for 1318:

“High Flocculation”

Dave Green (@telejunkie) discussed this topic in his article The Rise of the Haze, BYO October 2016:

“What some brewers point to is that these yeast strains flocculate almost too quickly. This doesn’t allow time for the hop oils and polyphenols to adhere to the yeast, leaving those compounds and other hop derived compounds in solution instead of stripping them out.”

Cheers!

 

Adding "in worts with "normal" polyphenol content" would be far more accurate.

Does he cite research on this or is this simply conjecture?

 

I would encourage you to read the article. It is well written and well researched.

 

Please provide some data to support this statement.

 

I'll check it out. Thanks!

 

Do you have a non-pay link?