Trying to see where I messed up - Fermentation

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by Kamikazehops, Mar 21, 2018.

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  1. VikeMan

    VikeMan Grand Pooh-Bah (3,067) Jul 12, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah

    Given the pic and the numbers, chances are the attenuation is already done. But a little more time on the yeast will help clean up any off flavors.

    Again, don't give up on the refractometer. They are great if used/interpreted properly. And with 1 gallon batches especially, a couple drops is more efficient than a hydrometer cylinder full of wort/beer.
     
  2. NorCalKid

    NorCalKid Initiate (0) Jan 10, 2018 California

    In all grain , SG is to determine sugars extracted during mash conversion for brewhouse efficiency/pre boil in dilution of H20. OG is for after the boil to determine the concentration of sugars to wort. FG is the fermentable sugars converted to alcohol to the solution, BEER. The hydrometer has always been my go to. Good homebrewing software and correct readings on your refractometer/hydrometer will be your best friend. Good luck.
     
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  3. VikeMan

    VikeMan Grand Pooh-Bah (3,067) Jul 12, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah

    "SG" means Specific Gravity. It could mean the Original Specific Gravity (pre-boil or post-boil), the Final Specific Gravity (post-fermentation), or the Specific Gravity at any time in between. IOW, Specific Gravity is the type of measurement, and "Original" or "Final" are just particularly useful times to measure the SG.

    What you described as SG is commonly called Pre-Boil Gravity, or Pre-Boil Original Gravity.
     
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  4. NorCalKid

    NorCalKid Initiate (0) Jan 10, 2018 California

    Fi
    Figured you'd break it down more specifically. But you know what im getting at.
     
  5. Kamikazehops

    Kamikazehops Initiate (0) Feb 23, 2018 Texas

    This is all great information. Thank you guys very much. Cleary I have a ways to go.
     
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  6. Kamikazehops

    Kamikazehops Initiate (0) Feb 23, 2018 Texas

    Since this is basically the same topic of my next question. I am just going to add on to my older thread.

    Brewed a black IPA today. Went great, when i transferred from kettle to carboy i used a funnel, there was a lot aeration with a steady pour. After this i removed the funnel and pitched my Dry yeast at 67F-68F. After the bubbles and everything has subsided now for a few hours. My yeast seems to have just clumped up into 2.

    Its been about 6-7 hours sitting, trying to see if it will change on its own?

    Should i re-pitch another packet of Dry Yeast? Thoughts?

    * I have done research and read other topics, to just leave as is.. the yeast will find its way to the sugars.. just may take a little longer.



    [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  7. NorCalKid

    NorCalKid Initiate (0) Jan 10, 2018 California

    Did you re-hydrate the yeast? Give it some time. Look into making yeast starters.
     
  8. Kamikazehops

    Kamikazehops Initiate (0) Feb 23, 2018 Texas

    I didn’t re-hydrate the yeast. I was looking into getting a stir plate but since it was only a 1 gallon batch I didn’t jump on that just yet. From what I’ve read there’s really no need to make a yeast start but I should begin at least re-hydrating my dry yeast.

    What would be the ratio for dry yeast to water? I Wouldn't assume that if i used an 11.5 g packet i would have to re-hydrate the whole packet for a 1 gallon.Maybe 1/ 2 packet?



    Update this morning. Looks like the being patient plan worked out just fine. Sitting in the brew cooler over night- 66F-68F. Nice Krausen formed[​IMG] .
     
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  9. Eggman20

    Eggman20 Crusader (433) Feb 14, 2017 Minnesota

    Brewing is all about patience! Easier to have when you have multiple batches worth of bottles to drink though. No need for a starter if you are doing a one gallon batch especially with dry yeast. Lost of people also skip the re-hydrating step with success so don't feel like you have to do that either. To me its pretty simple to re-hydrate so why not do it.
     
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  10. NorCalKid

    NorCalKid Initiate (0) Jan 10, 2018 California

    The ratio I use is 100ml of H2O per packet@80f.
     
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