NEIPA Dry Hopping Dosage

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by drink1121, Apr 24, 2018.

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  1. EvenMoreJesus

    EvenMoreJesus Initiate (0) Jun 8, 2017 Pennsylvania

    Exactly. I ferment in 6.5 gallon carboys.
     
  2. wasatchback

    wasatchback Maven (1,460) Jan 12, 2014 Tajikistan
    Trader

    Who goes grain to glass in 6-9 days???

    Treehouse beers are 18-21 days before hitting cans. Heady is 21ish days when I’ve heard it quoted.. not sure what you guys are drinking but heavily hopped IPAs are horrible super young. They need that time to all come together and mellow out and refine their flavor. Then they taste best 2 weeks from canning generally.

    From everything I’ve read and listened to I would guess DH amounts are 1.5 to 2 times leger than whirlpool amounts for these beers.
     
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  3. drink1121

    drink1121 Initiate (0) Mar 23, 2009 California

    Just watched a video with Brad Smith and Randy Mosher that said he had a beer do it in 8 days. mine are ready in 7-8 days easy. Civil Society does most of theirs that quickly as well. I am sure there are others. SO4 yeasts and alike are extremely fast fermenters, making it easy as.
     
  4. EvenMoreJesus

    EvenMoreJesus Initiate (0) Jun 8, 2017 Pennsylvania

    I usually package mine after about 7 or 8 days (most recent went 11 for some reason), but I'd agree that they need a couple weeks to condition and hit that sweet spot.
     
  5. VikeMan

    VikeMan Grand Pooh-Bah (3,043) Jul 12, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah Society

    And, ya know, carbonate.
     
  6. invertalon

    invertalon Pooh-Bah (2,065) Jan 27, 2009 Ohio
    Pooh-Bah Society Trader

    In the past, I was always using around 8oz of dry hop between two charges. On my next one, I am doing a different approach by dry hopping in the keg. Which I have done in the past by using 2oz or so into one of those hop mesh canisters.

    But this time, I will add a 3oz charge for fermentation dry hop, then near FG rack that into the keg with the dip tube cut and a hop/filter inside with the dip tube going through it. The other 3oz or so dry hop will be added loose in the keg and then sealed and spunded. Hops will sit in there until it's gone. My last IPA had the hops sit in the beer until it kicked for over two months and it never got any grassy flavors or anything... So I will try it again this time, but with the hops loose as mentioned vs. in the canister.

    Vic Secret, Galaxy and Simcoe... Should be divine!
     
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  7. thebriansmaude

    thebriansmaude Crusader (472) Dec 16, 2016 Canada (AB)
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    Curious how you are rigging up the dip tube into the filter? Are these the filters found on amazon and the like ?

    Sounds like you would extract way more hop flavour this way as opposed to a bag.
    @invertalon
     
  8. wasatchback

    wasatchback Maven (1,460) Jan 12, 2014 Tajikistan
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    It’s on Scott Janish’s blog. He documents exactly how he does it.
     
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  9. invertalon

    invertalon Pooh-Bah (2,065) Jan 27, 2009 Ohio
    Pooh-Bah Society Trader

    Yes, something like this:

    https://www.amazon.com/Hopper-Filte...pID=41hm3g9BG2L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

    Going to drill a hole in the top and just feed the dip tube right into it, so it blocks any hop material. I have two of these, so will only modify one to see how it goes. I typically never hop in the keg, but just trying some new stuff. Typically, I just did in primary and never with bags/filters. Always dump right in and crash the hops out before transfer.
     
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  10. Rrrainy

    Rrrainy Initiate (80) Jan 5, 2018 Netherlands

    A big rubber stopper (which I bought from my local online brewstore) works great to close off the top of the cheap filter cannisters you can by online. The dip tube fits nicely in the predrilled hole.
    I use the small 18cm high (7inch) ones in my 3.5 gallon kegs and that works perfectly. The filter doesn't necessarily need to cover the whole diptube. So I'm guessing the 28cm (11inch) ones should be perfect for 5 gallon kegs.
     
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  11. thebriansmaude

    thebriansmaude Crusader (472) Dec 16, 2016 Canada (AB)
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    I'm attempting the floating dip tube in serving keg approach ATM. Just racked a pale ale onto 2oz loose dry hops in the serving keg with a spunding valve. Hopefully I get max hop utilization this way and then avoid sucking up any hop debris by cold crashing and using the floating dip tube.

    Anyone else ever try this ?
     
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  12. wasatchback

    wasatchback Maven (1,460) Jan 12, 2014 Tajikistan
    Trader

    I bought one of the Floating Dip Tubes a while ago, might have to try it soon. Every time I’ve transferred with a few points to a keg with bagged DH and spunded I get worse aroma than if I had just put the hops
    In the fermenter and let it finish, makes no sense. Might try loose with the floating Dip Tube but then actually transfer again after it’s crashed. I know people say it’s fine to leave that much yeast/hops in a serving keg but I just struggle with the idea of it.
     
  13. Hoppist

    Hoppist Initiate (0) Mar 5, 2018 Greece

    Could you please post the perfected recipe?
     
  14. TooHopTooHandle

    TooHopTooHandle Initiate (0) Dec 20, 2016 New York

    6 gallon batch (1.075 target)
    Mash 156 degrees
    11lbs-2row
    2lbs- flaked oats
    2lbs- flaked wheat
    2lbs- white wheat
    .5lbs- honey malt
    .5lbs- crystal 10
    London 1318
    5oz of citra, 5oz of denali, 5oz of Eldorado, 5oz of galaxy.
    4ozs of each hop for a 30 minute hop stand at 180 degrees and let the temp free fall
    2.02:1 chloride(17 grams) to sulfate(7grams) ratio also 3ml of lactic acid (all added to mash)your numbers will probably be different here because of equipment profile difference.
    I make a 2 liter starter 24 hours before I will have to pitch and pitch the whole starter and use an aeration wand for the suggested time from brewcipher
    Ferm temp controlled at 68
    24 hours in to fermentation add 1oz of each hop
     
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  15. honkey

    honkey Maven (1,326) Aug 28, 2010 Arizona
    Trader

    I frequently think I may sound like a broken record when this conversation comes up, but it's so important to realize the role of the quality of the hops. As a homebrewer, you are not likely to get the best lots of any hops, so the over dry hopping concern is real because you'll end up with excess polyphenols in comparison to the amount of oils the hops contain. Lupulin Powder is probably one of the most helpful things for homebrewers that has been released in the last few years in that regard. In comparison, one of our beers in Tombstone uses only individually selected lots of hops at a rate equivalent to 6 oz. per gallon. I also add lupulin powder and oil to maximize the hop character. It is overwhelming, but it is not burning. I drink it straight from the fermenter the day after cold crashing and it is INTENSE, but not at all unpleasant or harsh. As long as there's no hop particles in suspension, it is enjoyable. Normally with those hops that are pelletized to our specification, they settle out in 2-3 days, so those beers are ready to drink 10 days after the brew day.
     
  16. TooHopTooHandle

    TooHopTooHandle Initiate (0) Dec 20, 2016 New York

    I have noticed with a proper cold crash the beer drinks quite nice 10days after brew day. I actually enjoy it that fresh, but like you said the hop particles in suspension can play a large role in how harsh it is and the hop burn. Once I started doing a 38 degree cold crash for 48 hours it has made the beers much more pleasant.
     
  17. TooHopTooHandle

    TooHopTooHandle Initiate (0) Dec 20, 2016 New York

    I just realized I forgot to put the dry hopping rate in here lol
    I used 1oz of each hop 24 hours into fermentation. I only do a single dry hop, but I have experimented with double dry hopping and for my taste I like the single dry hop better.
     
  18. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Grand Pooh-Bah (3,181) Dec 15, 2005 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah Society

    Weedy, just to clarify – when you state “Lupulin Powder” are you referring to the product marketed as Cryo Hops by YCH?

    https://ychhops.com/hop-products/cryo-hops

    I had a lengthy conversation with a guy from YCH about this ‘new’ product at the recent HomebrewCon in Portland. Once aspect he related to me is that Cryo Hops should be used at a 1:2 ratio as compared to ‘regular’ pellet hops (e.g., if you normally would add 2 ounces of ‘regular’ pellet hops you should substitute in 1 ounce of the same variety of Cryo Hops). Is this consistent with your experience/understanding?

    Also, at a presentation at HomebrewCon about hops by Ted Hausotter of the company Hop Heaven (see informational links below) he stated he was not a fan of Cryo Hops since he stated “the aroma/flavor does not hold up as well for pellet hops”. In other words the beer will experience accelerated hops fade. Have you heard of this before? I suspect that for your beers they are consumed quickly so this aspect may not be noticed in commercially brewed beers?

    Cheers!

    https://www.homebrewcon.org/speakers/ted-hausotter/

    https://lupulinexchange.com/user/profile/7469
     
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