Help with dry hop schedule

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by slayerhellfire, Mar 16, 2012.

Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.
  1. slayerhellfire

    slayerhellfire Initiate (0) Dec 24, 2009 New York

    Ok so here's my final version of my DIPA recipe basically Iam looking for input on my hop schedule. 14 pounds 2 row, 1 pound crystal 40L, 1 pound carapils, 1 pound Munich light- 1.50 oz magnum @ 60, 1oz chinook @ 15, 1oz centennial @ 5 -dry hop- 2oz centennial,1 oz cascade, 1 oz Columbus for 7 days in secondary. Mash at 152
     
  2. Homebrew42

    Homebrew42 Initiate (0) Dec 20, 2006 New York

    Uh oh, someone is gonna call the crystal malt police again!

    ;-)

    The dry hops look great to me, others will likely recommend adding more and/or dry hopping in stages, but personally I think it'll be great as is.
     
    NiceFly and sergeantstogie like this.
  3. OddNotion

    OddNotion Pooh-Bah (1,915) Nov 1, 2009 New Jersey
    Pooh-Bah

    I think the dry hop schedule looks good as is, though in most cases I leave them in for 10 days but thats just a matter of preference.

    What are the calculated IBUs on this beer?
     
    sergeantstogie likes this.
  4. sergeantstogie

    sergeantstogie Initiate (0) Nov 16, 2010 Washington

    I concur with HB42 and Oddnotion. The hops combo is good and will be fine. Like HB42 said, many will recommend complicated dry hopping schedules but if you do what I normally do, which is let it ferment for 4 or 5 days and then toss in your dry hops for the remainder of the fermentation, you will be just fine.
     
  5. slayerhellfire

    slayerhellfire Initiate (0) Dec 24, 2009 New York

    98 IBU as of right now
     
  6. sergeantstogie

    sergeantstogie Initiate (0) Nov 16, 2010 Washington

    Some fun entertainment when brewing this, will be to let your non craft friends take a sip of the just cooled wort. The sweetness comes rolling in like a freight train then followed by an electrical storm of bitterness. The looks on their faces is priceless.
     
  7. mnstorm99

    mnstorm99 Initiate (0) May 11, 2007 Minnesota

    Sigh...I'll bite :grimacing:

    Something to consider is that in a beer with that high of an original gravity, your going to probably have a good amount of residual sweetness as is. 1# of carapils and 1# of 40°L is alot of crystal malt (even though 11.5% isn't extremely over doing it), my only concern is the finishing gravity your already looking at plus 11.5% crystal malt. Do you plan on using a high attenuating yeast?
     
  8. VikeMan

    VikeMan Grand Pooh-Bah (3,067) Jul 12, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah

    Looks good to me. BTW, 98 computed IBUs won't get very close to 98 in reality (reality becomes very non-linear vs. theory above a certain point), but it will be plenty.
     
  9. slayerhellfire

    slayerhellfire Initiate (0) Dec 24, 2009 New York

    lol yeah that's a good idea
     
  10. slayerhellfire

    slayerhellfire Initiate (0) Dec 24, 2009 New York

    well I am using wyeast 1056 and doing a large 1800ML starter
     
  11. slayerhellfire

    slayerhellfire Initiate (0) Dec 24, 2009 New York

    So I just recalculated the IBU'S and it's telling me 68 which is a bit low, should I do 2 oz of the magnum for 60 min which will bring me up to 84 IBUS.
     
  12. aficionado

    aficionado Initiate (0) Jan 6, 2011 New Jersey

    What changes did you recalculate exactly? I think that making adjustments to the malt bill as well as mashing lower would be better options to adding more bittering hops. Dryhop looks good. If anything, I'd double up on the 15 and 5 minute additions. Right now you have very sweet, high FG. Not ideal for a hop forward beer, but it's not wrong either. It's up to you.
     
  13. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Grand Pooh-Bah (3,375) Dec 15, 2005 Pennsylvania
    Society Pooh-Bah

    Your dry hopping schedule looks fine to me.

    Good luck with your IIPA.

    Cheers!
     
  14. slayerhellfire

    slayerhellfire Initiate (0) Dec 24, 2009 New York

    May
     
  15. mnstorm99

    mnstorm99 Initiate (0) May 11, 2007 Minnesota

    1056 could help bring the FG down if treated properly, but an 1800ml starter for this beer doesn't seem like enough, unless you pitch two packs of yeast into the starter. According to Mr. Malty it looks like your going to need bigger than a 5000ml starter.
     
  16. slayerhellfire

    slayerhellfire Initiate (0) Dec 24, 2009 New York

    Yeah I don't have a 5000ml flask only 2000ml maybe I will just get another packet of yeast, if I can I actually might not beable to get to my hbs. Could I just do a 2000ml starter with my one packet
     
  17. VikeMan

    VikeMan Grand Pooh-Bah (3,067) Jul 12, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah

    What's your OG?
     
  18. slayerhellfire

    slayerhellfire Initiate (0) Dec 24, 2009 New York

    Preboil is 1.066, post boil is saying 1.084
     
  19. VikeMan

    VikeMan Grand Pooh-Bah (3,067) Jul 12, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah

    For 1.084, Mr. Malty says 2.6 liters if the vial/pack is very fresh and if you do 'intermittent shaking', i.e. swirl it often. 2 liters might be 'close enough' (though I probably wouldn't go that small), but you may have trouble doing a 2 liter starter in a 2 liter flask, depending on the headspace of that particular flask. You could also do a two step starter.
     
  20. mnstorm99

    mnstorm99 Initiate (0) May 11, 2007 Minnesota

    5000ml is on the high end, and I will be honest that I probably wouldn't make one that big. But, if you only have one pack and one flask. I would ask if you have a growler or something that you could use to split and step the starter up? When do you plan on brewing this? I would personally be concerned with a 1.8 liter starter in a 1.084 OG beer.
     
Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.