Christmas Gift: Muntons Hazy IPA

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by MehNahMehNah, Dec 25, 2023.

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  1. MehNahMehNah

    MehNahMehNah Initiate (197) Feb 23, 2015 Georgia

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/qJvdgUJVSExhbc6G9

    I received a gift from a family member and figured I'd consult the group regarding how to proceed. The Muntins is a no boil kit and I'd like to avoid the dark LME results typical of these things. Reading Scott Janish and Dean Hume, preserving haze in IPAs seems to be related to the pH of the wort, with 4.6 being ideal. Is there a simple calculator to predict where to get that, LME and RO water?

    Janish thinks higher ABV helps haze and I saved back some Lalemand Koln yeast from a kolsch I made as it has been reported to 'biotransform' hazys.

    Any other hacks to upgrade this kit? Adjuncts? More hops? (It comes with citra and mosaic)
     
  2. MehNahMehNah

    MehNahMehNah Initiate (197) Feb 23, 2015 Georgia

  3. VikeMan

    VikeMan Grand Pooh-Bah (3,067) Jul 12, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah

    4.6 is not an ideal wort pH (too low). It is, however, at the upper end of typical finished ale pH. During fermentation, the yeast will bring the pH down into the desired range, pretty much every time. There is no reliable calculator for finished beer pH. If you wanted, you could measure your finished beer's pH, and if too high you could add acid (lactic or citric or phosphoric) to bring it down. But I wouldn't recommend that unless your process includes a way to add liquids without exposing the beer to oxygen. O2 is the enemy of (most) all beers, but especially hazies.

    Regarding water, we don't know the profile of the water used in the mash when the extract was made. But we do know that whatever was in that water is now mostly in the extract. I'd recommend using distilled water for any extract recipe where the extract's source water is unknown.

    ETA: Or are you/Scott talking about lowering the post boil wort (as opposed to mash) pH to 4.6? That's a possibility, but alas, there's still no good calculator.
     
    #3 VikeMan, Dec 26, 2023
    Last edited: Dec 26, 2023
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  4. grahamp33

    grahamp33 Aspirant (210) Feb 27, 2019 Indiana
    Trader

    I’ve lowered the pH numerous times post boil to bring the pH down to 5.0-5.1pH prior to starting fermentation (I use phosphoric). Also, I usually add phosphoric acid to the fermenter when dry hopping to get pH in optimal finished beer range (4.5pH). I measure the pH after fermentation has finished, then use Janish’s calculator he’s created that you can find somewhere online that calculates what the final pH will be once you add X amount of dry hops. Then I input that into beersmith as a mash addition to determine how much acid will be required to get the pH right in the finished beer. It has worked very well every time but once (probably 10 hazy IPAs). That one time it ended up at 4.35pH instead of 4.5pH, so not a big deal. For further details, just message me.
     
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  5. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Grand Pooh-Bah (3,375) Dec 15, 2005 Pennsylvania
    Society Pooh-Bah

    Just to double check, "worked' here means establishing a permahaze?

    Cheers!
     
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  6. VikeMan

    VikeMan Grand Pooh-Bah (3,067) Jul 12, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah

    How does Janish's calculator know the particular beer's buffering capacity?
    "Old Beer pH + Hop Addition ->> New Beer pH" is not solvable without it.

    From Scott's own blog... "Specifically, the calculator assumes that dry hopping at a rate of 100 g/hl (0.26 pounds per barrel) will increase beer pH by 0.025 units. Although some of the research described above found the increase to be closer to 0.036 units, I’ve found this is too high based on my experience and playing with the calculator."

    The reason he's getting different results than in the research he has read is that his particular beers are different, with different buffering capacities. His calculator contains an implied assumption that the user's beers will have the same buffering capacities as the beers he used to develop his rule of thumb that fed his formula. Better than flying blind, but I wouldn't count on much precision.

    If this worked for you 9 times out of 10, you should play the lottery. Mash pH calculators are not suited for finished beer pH calculations. They know nothing about all of the biochemical and chemical processes that happened during fermentation. Once again, it's the unknown (and unknowable with current models) buffering capacity. I say "current" models, because perhaps someone will eventually develop one that can predict a finished beer's buffering capacity.
     
  7. grahamp33

    grahamp33 Aspirant (210) Feb 27, 2019 Indiana
    Trader

    JackHorzempa, I was only referring to getting the final pH into the 4.5 range +/- 0.1 pH

    VikeMan, I agree that it is all theoretical but I can attest to the fortune I have had with using the Janish dry hop calculator (using 0.025 given) and using a mash pH calculator to estimate how much the pH will adjust in the final beer. I would rather do something to make an adjustment rather than leave a final pH above safe 4.6pH level. If dry hopping at a hazy ipa rate, the beer will very likely end up with 4.7+pH. Not controlling the final pH has resulted in a muddled flavor of the hops and I prefer to taste a sharper hop flavor. Again, I totally agree it is making a lot of assumptions. For me, it has worked.
     
    #7 grahamp33, Dec 27, 2023
    Last edited: Dec 27, 2023
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  8. MehNahMehNah

    MehNahMehNah Initiate (197) Feb 23, 2015 Georgia

    IIRC Janish isn't completely sure what element in the hops drives the pH changes. The Muntons kit is 'no boil' and I've read that adjusting the water might not be easy to calculate up front and the this kit has LME. With a reported final abv of a bit less than 5% in the kit if I wanted to follow Scott's advice to improve haze by boosting OG/FG at the same time I suppose I'd mix the LME with wort with a % of malted wheat instead of just water - and adjust the hops accordingly. Because of the way Muntons designed these kits they are virtually all dry hopped - I've always at least used a hop charge at FO before this. I'm pretty confident I can do an oxygen free transfer into a purged keg with a hop basket. I've been using the airlock outlet on my fermenters to the posts on a keg while running a vent line out to a jar of star san, then connecting a line from the spigot in the fermenter to the liquid line to keep it a closed system when I transfer and it seems to have worked for me the last couple years. Keg-to-keg transfers should be a breeze.

    I could just make the kit as designed but really if I can escape the 'flabby' reviews of the kit since I've got to (maybe with some help) drink five gallons of it im willing to put in a little effort. I think it could be a help to those trying to elevate their extract brewing if they are heading to all grain. I was a little surprised to read (in Beer & Brewing mag) of some breweries integrating extract into their brews so it feels there is something to gain here.

    Searching this subject will result in articles on preserving haze by manipulating wort pH, and some traffic in forums.

    I have additional Citra and Mosaic that the kit already has measured out and if recommended some Amarillo to contribute.
     
  9. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Grand Pooh-Bah (3,375) Dec 15, 2005 Pennsylvania
    Society Pooh-Bah

    Entirely up to you if want to 'kick it up a notch' and add Amarillo to the dry hopping stage.

    FWIW I recently homebrewed an IPA solely using Citra and Mosaic and I am very happy with how that beer turned out.

    Do you have a target ABV you are looking to achieve (maybe 7% ABV)?

    Cheers!

    P.S. From reading the instruction sheet it appears that the kit has about 2 ounces each of Citra and Mosaic for dry hopping over two stages (day 1 and day 10). I would guess for some homebrewers this might be a tad ‘light’ for dry hopping, especially for an IPA vs. a Pale Ale. Maybe adding some more hops for dry hopping would be a good idea?

    https://www.muntons.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/Keep-22595-Flagship-Hazy-IPA-Leaflet.pdf
     
    #9 JackHorzempa, Dec 27, 2023
    Last edited: Dec 27, 2023
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  10. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Grand Pooh-Bah (3,375) Dec 15, 2005 Pennsylvania
    Society Pooh-Bah

  11. MehNahMehNah

    MehNahMehNah Initiate (197) Feb 23, 2015 Georgia

    Well of course there's a Brülosophy for that/this I dunno about a 7% NEIPA- like hazy but certainly good for thought. I found the exbeeriment interesting with his pH adjusted beer looked lighter in color unless that's just happenstance here.

    He even mentioned 'flabby' beers.

    I guess I'd have to calc a grain bill to get the ABV up and promote haze, mash an appropriate bit of wort - maybe a short boil with a hop charge at flame out then go on with dissolving the LME, topping off and adjust pH (4.0 is lower even than Janish advocates) 4.6-ish and go with an increase hop schedule based on OG (whatever I end up with).
     
  12. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Grand Pooh-Bah (3,375) Dec 15, 2005 Pennsylvania
    Society Pooh-Bah

    Or you could add some Wheat Malt extract, your choice here.

    Cheers!
     
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  13. MehNahMehNah

    MehNahMehNah Initiate (197) Feb 23, 2015 Georgia

    I've read other homebrewery getting an OG of about 1.043 and the kit at around 4.9-5% abv which is nice although Janish thought something above 6% complimented a big dry hop.

    I sort of wish I had wheat malt extract it would be simple. I've got whole wheat malt and a variety of other malts instead.
     
  14. MrOH

    MrOH Grand Pooh-Bah (3,995) Jul 5, 2010 Virginia
    BA4LYFE Society Pooh-Bah

    Sounds like it's time to do a partial-mash brew.
     
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  15. MehNahMehNah

    MehNahMehNah Initiate (197) Feb 23, 2015 Georgia

    I'm thinking the same. I got the codes off the cans of LME in the Muntons kit and can't find a way to decipher them... there doesn't appear to be a publicly available database.

    Reading their own advertising it seems they expect hazies to get the cloudiness from oats with no mention of wheat but I can't be 100% sure. So a short mini mash of 3 lbs malted wheat in a gallon of water - I can do that on a stovetop - sparge and a 20 minute boil with a hop stand/whirlpool - then proceed with the recipe pretty much as recommended by Muntons except adding more hops (= more 'biotransformation').

    I'll be using my all-rounder for primary fermentation and initial hop drop at high krausen, then sealing things to transfer to a purged keg with a hop basket in it - then when time has elapsed sealed transfer to a purged serving keg. Gonna blow through some CO2 I'm sure.

    I use RO water and wouldn't mind trying to get my mineral salts to NIEPA territory but then what Muntons has done with the LME is unknown. I know brewsmith just says use plain water with extracts but I'd like to consider the hops.

    Still unsure about adjusting the wort pH although it seems easy enough.

    I may tackle this over the weekend.
     
  16. MehNahMehNah

    MehNahMehNah Initiate (197) Feb 23, 2015 Georgia

    1.062 into the fermenter - 5.5 gm CaCi, 2.4 gm gypsum and 1.7 gm pickling salt in gallons of RO water, one gallon of that to mash 3 lbs of wheat malt and another to batch sparge and boil 20 minutes (or so) on the stovetop. The other three gallons got the LME dissolved and I did a hopstand of sorts on the stovetop. Turns out I'm out of Amarillo but had Mosaic and Citra and added some HBC 342. The pH was 5.34 and a ml of phosphoric acid got me (I believe) to 4.8. hit it with O2, poured the harvested lalamond kolsch/koln yeast in and set the temp for 74°. This yeast is supposed to be up to 78% efficiency so we'll see if it gets to the mid 6%. It reportedly will biotransform dry hops so that will be the big test. The LME was pretty dark, the wheat very cloudy and light.
     
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  17. MehNahMehNah

    MehNahMehNah Initiate (197) Feb 23, 2015 Georgia

    Quick update - the yeast got busy quicker than it did in the kolsch I harvested it from and I went ahead with the first hop additions. After looking at NEIPA recipes I was pretty surprised how much dry hops are being used - way more than the 2 ounce-ish each of citra and mosaic that the kit included. I've had and brewed lots of IPAs with the combo and wanted more robust tropical fruit and when looking for the Amarillo I didn't have found Delta, El Dorado and African Queen. That with the HBC 342 should round things out? The last hop charge seems to be larger than the first everywhere I looked. The wort color is lightening up.
     
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  18. MrOH

    MrOH Grand Pooh-Bah (3,995) Jul 5, 2010 Virginia
    BA4LYFE Society Pooh-Bah

    Never used Delta or African Queen, but El Dorado is dope.
     
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  19. MehNahMehNah

    MehNahMehNah Initiate (197) Feb 23, 2015 Georgia

    Delta is much like HBC 342 from what I read and not far from Mosaic. African Queen is a wild card since the flavor/aroma descriptors seem described confusing to me but El Dorado may pull it all together.

    Going with Janish's recommended process of cooling things before the next dry hop - set the fridge to 59° today. I'll be transferring off the first dry hop charge into a purged keg with the next (larger) hop charge. The plan is to then do a final transfer into a purged keg after this next five day DH.
     
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  20. MehNahMehNah

    MehNahMehNah Initiate (197) Feb 23, 2015 Georgia

    I transferred into the purged keg Tuesday and put it back in the ferm fridge with a spunding valve. Will transfer off the hops (again) and into the serving keg Sunday (plan to anyway). I was a little bummed that the beer seemed to be clearing in the fermenter. Didn't check the gravity or pH but since there's still a little in the fermenter and it's been cold here maybe I'll do that tomorrow.
     
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