Bru'n Water help

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by wspscott, Feb 16, 2013.

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  1. wspscott

    wspscott Pooh-Bah (1,958) May 25, 2006 Kentucky
    Pooh-Bah

    So I have decided that I need to start paying attention to my water. Basically, I am happy with the beer I make, but water seems like a logical (and cheap) step.

    I don't have a water report, but for a first step I am going off of this thread (I live in Lexington) http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f36/water-report-35950/

    pH 7.5
    Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) Est 326
    Electrical Conductivity, mmho/cm 0.54
    Cations / Anions, me/L 5.6 / 5.4

    Sodium, Na 18
    Potassium, K 4
    Calcium, Ca 51
    Magnesium, Mg 26
    Total Hardness, CaCO 3 236
    Nitrate, NO 3-N 0.3 (SAFE)
    Sulfate, SO -4S 49
    Chloride, Cl 19
    Carbonate, CO 3 < 1
    Bicarbonate, HCO 3 112
    Total Alkalinity, CaCO 3 92
    **********************

    My next batch is 11 gallons
    Marris Otter 17#
    C40 1#

    I usually mash with 1.5 qt/lb so this works out to be ~7 gallons of strike water (I am aiming for 13 gallons pre-boil).

    I am thinking of 1g/gal of gypsum to aim for the pale ale water profile. I may or may not add a little salt to bump up the chloride. I'm hoping for a little more "punch" to the hops.

    Here is my question:
    Without any acid to the mash, the predicted Ph is 5.6 and in the "adjustment summary" tab, the red dot is right on the RA=0 line. If I add .25ml/gal of lactic acid, the predicted Ph is 5.4, but the red dot is below the RA=0 line. Given that all of the "styles" are on or above the line, I am concerned, but I am not sure if I should be. Is this being driven by a "default" in the sparge acidification (it shows lactic acid for the sparge)? I batch sparge, so I wasn't planning on doing anything with that water, is that a problem? Should I ignore the acid for now?

    thanks for any and all insights
     
  2. hopfenunmaltz

    hopfenunmaltz Pooh-Bah (2,635) Jun 8, 2005 Michigan
    Pooh-Bah

    Get the pH right, and it is best to measure the pH of the mash.

    Your sulfate is given as SO4-S, sulfate as sulfur, to get as sulfate multiply by 3, so you end up with SO4=147 ppm. Maybe you have akready done that.
     
  3. VikeMan

    VikeMan Grand Pooh-Bah (3,067) Jul 12, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah

    I don't use Bru'nWater (I like EZWater), so I can't offer help with your specific spreadsheet questions. But if by salt you mean NaCl, I wouldn't recommend adding it. I generally build from distilled water, and I get all of my chloride from CaCl. Also, if by punch up your hops you mean enhance the 'crisp' bitterness, the sulfate from Gypsum does that. Chloride tends to enhance malty flavors. The trick is to find the right balance between Sulfates and Chloride.
     
  4. hopfenunmaltz

    hopfenunmaltz Pooh-Bah (2,635) Jun 8, 2005 Michigan
    Pooh-Bah

    I had to download a new version to see the RA graph and the cities. It looks like he has left off some of the cases that AJ Delange has on his chart. I think Martin might have looked at those and decided they are not realizable as they might not balance electricly.

    One beer I have brewed often is a Pils with a negative RA. Works fine.
     
  5. wspscott

    wspscott Pooh-Bah (1,958) May 25, 2006 Kentucky
    Pooh-Bah

    So the negative RA is not a problem?

    Per your earlier post, yes I entered it as SO4 as 147. I also have some test strips (not the paper ones). I'm curious what the Ph will be without adjusting, but I am prepared to adjust if needed. From what I have read, it would be better to be at 5.3 vs. 5.6 for the mash Ph. Is is critical to adjust the sparge water if I am batch sparging?
     
  6. wspscott

    wspscott Pooh-Bah (1,958) May 25, 2006 Kentucky
    Pooh-Bah

    I did mean NaCl for salt. Your comment fits with what I have read, but if I don't add any NaCl, then my Cl will be 19 and my Sulfate will be 294. Would that be completely out of wack? I could also drop the gypsum a bit if needed. I don't have any CaCL so the only way to increase the Cl is with NaCl.
     
  7. hopfenunmaltz

    hopfenunmaltz Pooh-Bah (2,635) Jun 8, 2005 Michigan
    Pooh-Bah

    A negative RA is not a problem. As I said, get the pH right, use the papers and do the best you can with them. 5.3 would be better for a light colored beer.

    As far as the Cl to SO4 ratio, don't get too hung up on it. CL=19 and SO4 = 294 is fine for a hoppy bitter beer. There are a few IPA waters in the IPA book by Steele that are in that range.
     
  8. wspscott

    wspscott Pooh-Bah (1,958) May 25, 2006 Kentucky
    Pooh-Bah

    Awesome, thanks for the info, really appreciate it.
     
  9. HerbMeowing

    HerbMeowing Maven (1,295) Nov 10, 2010 Virginia
    Trader

    Me thinks you be playing w/fire by using a water report from an unknown spigot.
     
  10. hopfenunmaltz

    hopfenunmaltz Pooh-Bah (2,635) Jun 8, 2005 Michigan
    Pooh-Bah

    If he knows what the city is putting out from the water plant, and is on the same system, I don't think it will be too far off. Seasonal variation would be more.

    If I remember, I will ask the city water manager at a nearby city next I see her what the variation would be around the system.
     
  11. wspscott

    wspscott Pooh-Bah (1,958) May 25, 2006 Kentucky
    Pooh-Bah

    I am making the assumption that the water report is from Lexington proper, there is only one water company for the city. If it is from outside the city/county, then it is probably different, but I assume not massively different. Honestly, I am more concerned that the report is from 5 years ago. I am going to see what this beer ends up like and if I notice a difference from adjusting the water, then I will probably get a Ward Labs report.

    If I get "serious" about water, I will probably do a couple reports spaced out to see what the seasonal variation looks like.
     
  12. HerbMeowing

    HerbMeowing Maven (1,295) Nov 10, 2010 Virginia
    Trader

    Probably shoulhd have added some context.

    I too used a proximty groundwater report while waiting for Ward to analyze mine.
    The two were worlds apart.

    Agree if the source in municipal...then it should be in the ballpark.
     
  13. Nobolo

    Nobolo Initiate (0) Aug 28, 2010 New York

    I've been using Bru'n water for all my brews.
    1st thing is to get the Ph to the right level.
    Use "Pale Ale" under water desired.
    What I do is get it as close as possible to that waters SO/Cl ratio which is 5.5.
    I have to use "Pickling lime" to do this. Gypsum and Calcium chloride also is used.
    By playing around with the other salts you will see your Ph go up or down.
    Once Ph+salts levels+SO/Cl ratio are in range your set..
     
  14. mattbk

    mattbk Savant (1,111) Dec 12, 2011 New York

    are you adjusting all of your beers to this profile? pale ale / high sulfate/choride ratio?

    hoppy/bitter beers will benefit from this. if you are trying to make something malty however, say a brown ale or a bock, this would not be the way to go.
     
  15. hopfenunmaltz

    hopfenunmaltz Pooh-Bah (2,635) Jun 8, 2005 Michigan
    Pooh-Bah

    If it is ground water it can be very different. Well depth and strata it is in will make a very big difference.
     
  16. hopfenunmaltz

    hopfenunmaltz Pooh-Bah (2,635) Jun 8, 2005 Michigan
    Pooh-Bah

    That is true if the sum of CL and SO4 >100. For small values don't worry too much.
    Look at the ratio for Munich water, and from that ratio you would say they could only make hoppy beers. The ratio is a guideline with limits.
     
  17. mattbk

    mattbk Savant (1,111) Dec 12, 2011 New York

    yes, that is true. i still dont believe that there is not a "one-profile-fits-all" technique for adjusting water however. fine tuning chemistry should make for better beers within each style. not completely necessary for making good beer, but preferred for getting the most flavor out of every beer in every style.
     
  18. HerbMeowing

    HerbMeowing Maven (1,295) Nov 10, 2010 Virginia
    Trader

    What has surprised me the most in this discussion is the apparently all-purpose advice to add 1 TBSP gypsum / 5G no matter the water's profile.

    This doesn't suggest it's not the right thing to do...just that it's a one-size-fits-all solution.
     
  19. VikeMan

    VikeMan Grand Pooh-Bah (3,067) Jul 12, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah

    I agree that would be bad advice. But I don't see anyone in the thread giving it.
     
  20. wspscott

    wspscott Pooh-Bah (1,958) May 25, 2006 Kentucky
    Pooh-Bah

    So I brewed yesterday and ended up using 5g of gypsum with 7 gallons of mash liquor (~.75g/gal). IF the water report is correct, this should give CA~=100 & Sulfate~=260. Using the ph Strips, I got a 5.0 (at 75 degrees) which based on every thing I have read suggests a true ph = 5.3, based on this, I did not treat with lactic acid.

    Bru'n water predicted a room temp ph = 5.6 based on my grain bill (17# marris otter & 1# caramel malt).

    So my question (questions) for those of you with a ph meter, is Bru'n Water usually "correct" or are there too many other variables (like that water report is wrong)? What about EZwater? Has anyone compared predictions between the two programs? If you build your water from RO, do the programs do a good job of predicting for a "normal" grain bill?
     
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