All Extract DIPA Recipe - How does this look?

I would not recommend 3 oz of Cascade at the start. This will certainly add bitterness, but Cascade's strong point is flavor and aroma. Something like 1 oz of Magnum or Warrior will accomplish the same and save your Cascade for the late additions.

My technique is to try and layer flavors, which would call for at least one more hop (two more wouldn't hurt). Something like Simcoe, Amarillo, Centennial, Columbus, or Citra would play will with Cascade. Then I would spread out the 30 minute addition to something like 20/10/0. This will preserve more of the great attributes of these hops.

Oh yeah, your yeast would appreciate a pinch of nutrient in the last five minutes.

 

I agree with PortLargo's statements above, and also add a pound of sugar to the fermentables as well. You'll get a nice little boost in gravity and perceived dryness.

 

For your purposes with this beer, just chuck it in at flame out (the wort will still be hot enough to kill any micro-organisms) and stir well to make sure it's completely dissolved.

 

I tend to add sugar after high krausen out of habit, but many report good results with adding sugar to the end of the boil. If you pitch the proper amount of yeast there should be no problem adding at the end of the boil. If you underpitch it is more import to delay to after high krausen. And I'm not sure two packs of yeast will be enough. Run your numbers through Brewer's Friend yeast calculator to see what you need.

Also, expect your hops to absorb 3 oz of water per oz of hops. No show-stopper here, just make sure you account for the loss. If you use a nylon paint strainer bag you will have much less hop debris to filter out . . . then a fresh bag for the DH.

 

Agreed - 3 oz at start (assuming that is the bittering charge at 60 minutes,) will result in a super-bitter beer. Like Largo said, an ounce or so of a high-alpha bittering hop like Magnum will do you better.
I don't mind single hop brews, but yeah, another might help.
I would also bring the 30-minute charge closer in - like the 20/10/0 sched above. 30 minutes is sort of a no-mans-land of hops... most of the flavor and aroma are driven off by then, but it may not have time for full isomerization for bittering.
I personaly don't give yeast nutrient in the boil - I do it when I'm making a starter. The one time I did both I blew the top off my fermenter... it you don't make starter then, yes, toss in some nutrient. Your yeast will thank you.

 

While I agree that using the homegrown Cascades for bittering is both ill-advised and wasteful (you don't know the AA%, so you can't calculate the IBUs), in terms of flavor/aroma, it's one of the few hop varieties that can truly stand on its own. Amarillo and/or Simcoe are both dynamite in combination with Cascade, but you'll do fine without them.

One question that immediately came to mind -- since these are home-grown hops, are you talking about 10 oz before or after drying? If they're dry, then this will be awesome! If not, then you're brewing an Imperial Blonde.

 

I agree with what the others have said. Also, you should look at a couple calculators for your yeast pitch and priming sugar. Yeast I would say at minimum use both packs depending on the OG potentially more. DIPA should probably be around 2.2 volumes of CO2 on the higher end, 5oz of sugar in 5 gallons of beer will leave you around 2.7 volumes. I would go with 3.1-3.7oz. for 5 gallons.

mrmalty.com for yeast
northernbrewer.com has a good looking calculator for priming sugar

 

some good comments already. here's my 2 cents.

your recipe would make beer, possibly even fairly tasty beer, but you could probably do better without too much more effort. Bitter to close to whatever IBUs you need by putting magnum, warrior, or some high AA hop in at 60 (typically 60 minutes = start of boil, that's the conventional terminology). Add a bunch of that cascade near or at flameout and do a hopstand at 170F (i.e. turn on your wort chiller, chill to 170F, then turn off your wort chiller and let it sit at 170F for around 20 minutes). Adding a pinch of that cascade at around 10 or 5 (left in the boil) is also fine, but truthfully you could just add it all at flameout and not even worry about it.

The suggestion to layer in some other hops is a fine suggestion. However, you CAN do all cascade if you like, it'll just be very cascade-y and quite citrusy. I'm a big cascade fan and I've even done an IPA-like smash that was all vienna/cascade, with a lot of cascade, and it came out great. You should decide based on what you want from the beer tho, not my opinions on cascade or anyone else's on whatever other hops. Layering is good too tho, cascade plays well with other hops.

And yes, I hope those homegrown cascade hops are DRY

 

I agree with most everything you said oddnotion. Is this assuming the op is using table sugar?

I use corn sugar so I thought 3.1 was low. I brew more ipas than any other style and I have had really good results using 2.35 volumes of co2. Which comes out to 4.1 oz of corn sugar assuming 5 gallons of beer at 70 degrees at bottling time.

OP just make sure you have a good estimate of how much beer you are bottling before weighing out your priming sugar. With my recipes that use a lot of hops in the boil and dry hops I usually don't end up with exactly 5 gallons in the bottling bucket.

Here are recommended co2 levels from two sources
How to brew- 2.2-2.7 for american ales.
Northern Brewer-2.4 for ipas.

 

I use corn sugar and use between 4 and 5 oz for a five gallon batch. I prefer a higher carb level on most beer so usually it's closer to 5 oz (140g) / 5 gallons. Less than 4 oz would be undercarbed imo

 

Yep, when I used to bottle I would use table sugar (cheaper and does the same thing with the same results). I tend to shoot for the middle to lower end of the volumes of CO2 for most styles. I guess that part comes to personal preference, but with IPAs (which is also my most commonly brewed style) I cant stand when they are over carbed because I feel that takes over the hop flavors that I worked so hard to impart in the beer.

 

My advice would be to not waste Citra and Centennial (especially the Citra; centennial does make a decent bittering hop) at the beginning of the boil. Yes, they are pretty high-alpha, but you are boiling off everything that makes them special, that citrusy, peachy flavor and aroma from the Citra, and the spicy-piney flavor and aroma from Centennial.