Lagers!

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by AlCaponeJunior, Mar 12, 2014.

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  1. AlCaponeJunior

    AlCaponeJunior Grand Pooh-Bah (3,452) May 21, 2010 Texas
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    Because of the fact that I have not been able to brew often enough to keep both of my freezer/controller units full at all times, I figure it's time to step it up to lagers. I have the space and temperature control needed, as I will dedicate the smaller freezer/controller unit to lagers and simply use this unit from start to finish for a lager (holds one ten or one five gallon batch, cannot fit two side-by-side). I'll of course keep doing ales in the other unit (which holds two five / one ten + one five gallon sized batches).

    So do spew forth your lagering wisdom in excruciating detail! I need it all, recipes, yeasts, starters, procedures, base malts, specialty ingredients, lagering, which playboy bunny is your favorite, everything! Of course I'm not a noob, but if you spew forth advice for noobs (related to lagers) please don't think this is twitter, you have more than 140 characters to work with!

    It's me, so you can be pretty sure my first lager will either be a smash or something very close to it. Simplicity = great beer, so I don't see the point in making a lager with 17 ingredients on batch one. Recall that I am not going to be kegging, so bottle conditioning of lagers is something I need to know about (is it possible? I assume it is). I'm not going to start kegging soon, btw, several other things in the queue before that.
     
  2. VikeMan

    VikeMan Grand Pooh-Bah (3,067) Jul 12, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah

    Couple tips to start this off..

    - Pitch Lots of Yeast, with lots of O2, and don't forget yeast nutrient
    - Pitch around 48F, ferment around 50F.
    - Raise temp toward end of attenuation for Diacety Rest
     
  3. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Grand Pooh-Bah (3,375) Dec 15, 2005 Pennsylvania
    Society Pooh-Bah

    Chapter 10 - What is Different for Brewing Lager Beer? of the book How to Brew will likely be helpful to you.

    As with all brewing there will be some varying opinions. For example, I have never conducted a diacetyl rest for my lagers. I would not recommend that you forego a diacetyl rest for your first lager but for my homebrewing experience it is an unnecessary step.

    Also, on the online How to Brew book, John lists varying lager durations vs. varying lager temperatures: “3.Nominal lagering times are 3 - 4 weeks at 45°F, 5 - 6 weeks at 40°F, or 7 - 8 weeks at 35°F.”

    Good luck on your first lager!

    Cheers!
     
  4. billandsuz

    billandsuz Pooh-Bah (2,097) Sep 1, 2004 New York
    Pooh-Bah

    i agree with the simple approach, and not just with lagers either. one thing to consider

    7 or 8 or 9 pounds of extra light DME
    few ounces of noble hops for bittering and aroma

    very fine pils can be made with extra light DME. quality lager is really dependent on yeast and fermentation management. you can take away a lot of headaches by going with DME, even if you usually don't brew extract this might be a time to consider.

    also
    everything said above plus patience.

    you can bottle condition lager no problem.
    decide which lager you are making. pils? bock? in between? personally, I appreciate a middle of the road pils style as an expression of lager ability and experience.


    Cheers
     
  5. jae

    jae Initiate (0) Feb 21, 2010 Washington

    A little late in the brewing year, but maibocks kick ass:

    2-row 70%
    Munich 15%
    Vienna 15%
    OG 1.070
    Tight pH, chloride heavy

    Perle at 60
    Hallertau at 10
    BU:GU 0.5:1

    Whatever lager yeast (big starter).
     
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  6. udubdawg

    udubdawg Initiate (0) Dec 11, 2006 Kansas

    bottle conditioning lagers works fine. Cold condition once carbed properly and it won't take long to get back to where it was when you finished lagering.
     
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  7. AlCaponeJunior

    AlCaponeJunior Grand Pooh-Bah (3,452) May 21, 2010 Texas
    Society Pooh-Bah

    Anyone found a particular lagering schedule most effective? 3-4 weeks at 45F seems a lot quicker (well duh) than 7-8 weeks at 35F, but is the longer, colder schedule better?

    And yes, I do have how to brew*. It's just been a while since I referenced it, and it's in the mancave out at my bro's, so I'll refresh well before the first lager day arrives. I suspect first lager day won't be till mid april.

    And anyone who wishes to expand on diacetyl rest, do tell. I now know that I CAN detect this flavor, and if it's a problem with lagers I'd like to avoid it right out of the gate. It's not been a problem with my ales, but lagers are a different beast (I know that, which is why I'm doing my homework before jumping in feet first).

    Look at that... a lager in my fridge! Cheers!

    *it would be quite hypocritical of me to constantly mention this book to noobs if I didn't have it myself :rolling_eyes:
     
  8. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Grand Pooh-Bah (3,375) Dec 15, 2005 Pennsylvania
    Society Pooh-Bah

    I can’t personally comment about the varying times/temperatures that John Palmer details. I personally lager my moderate gravity (1.050ish) lagers for 6-7 weeks at temperatures in the upper 30’s. There may be a ‘better’ schedule but this one works for me.

    “I now know that I CAN detect this flavor, and if it's a problem with lagers I'd like to avoid it right out of the gate.” An option is to just conduct a diacetyl rest as ‘cheap insurance’. I have read where some folks taste a sample from the primary and if they perceive diacetyl they conduct a diacetyl rest (if they don’t perceive it they don’t conduct a diacetyl rest). I personally have never conducted a diacetyl rest for my 70+ batches of lager and I have never experienced excess diacetyl in any of my beers (I have a sensitive palate for diacetyl).

    Cheers!
     
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  9. AlCaponeJunior

    AlCaponeJunior Grand Pooh-Bah (3,452) May 21, 2010 Texas
    Society Pooh-Bah

    I'm not at all opposed to using extract, even tho I'm also all grain equipped. In fact last night I made a 2 gallon batch of ale using American II yeast, 3 lbs amber extract, and cascade hops. It's part of my experimentations with non-extra-super-light extracts (of which I'm hoping to determine more precisely their characteristics, and not just recommend light extracts plus steeping grains because that's what everybody else does).

    However, for a pilsner-ish lager, extra light would be appropriate, and I'm not going to mess with amber or dark extracts plus lager yeasts.

    Starter wise I'd of course calculate using beersmith.
     
  10. MLucky

    MLucky Initiate (0) Jul 31, 2010 California

    I doubt if I could tell you much you don't already know. You've been doing this awhile so you know about pitch rates, and you've got the set-up to control fermentation temp and to lager. So what is there to say?

    I suppose I could mention that, for me at least, lager brewing is challenging because it's all about process. It's true of brewing in general, I think, but particularly true of lagers. Most lager recipes are extremely simple. You want a SMASH? Pretty much all german pilsners are nothing but german pils malt and hallertau. Most lager recipes aren't much more than base malt plus some munich (or maybe Vienna) plus noble hops. So making a really good one is all about process. Which is to say, things like water chemistry, mash temp, pitch rate etc matter more with your typical pils or maibock than your usual IPA or stout. And there's no place for mistakes to hide. But you knew that.

    OK, so here's one thing that surprised me: most lagers get a LOT better if you extend the lagering time beyond what's generally recommended. I know the general rule of thumb (at least one week of lagering time per 2 degrees Plato, or 8 gravity points) will tell you that a 1.048 pilsner will be ready to drink in six weeks, but I'm telling you it'll be a lot better at about 10 weeks. I've got a pilsner now that is really surprising me that way: it was good, no flaws, a perfectly nice beer when I first tapped it in January. It's much, much better now. Enough so that with my next pils I'm not even tapping it for at least three months. If I can help it. I've had similar experiences with doppelbocks and maibocks. Lagers benefit from long lagering.

    Also, FWIW, I do my lagers seasonally, and often do it in a way that allows me to use the yeast cake from one beer to ferment the next, larger beer. So for example, I might brew an Oktoberfest in June, and when it's done with primary, transfer it to a cornie for lagering and drop a doppelbock on the yeast cake. This is much cheaper and easier than doing a series of step starters in order to get the cell count you need for a high gravity lager, and it works great.
     
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  11. FATC1TY

    FATC1TY Pooh-Bah (2,564) Feb 12, 2012 Georgia
    Pooh-Bah

    Agreed with the whole using cakes from some strains, saves on have 2-3 flasks around the house spinning away and crashing.

    Lagers are awesome, I just wish they took a shorter time to be ready, but they are well, well worth it when you get one to come out correctly. Yeast management is paramount, temp control is paramount.

    That said.. a good CAP or Czech Pils will always hit the spot any time of the year for me, and with almost any meal.
     
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  12. cmac1705

    cmac1705 Zealot (517) Apr 30, 2010 Florida

    I'm loving WLP 838 right now, if you're looking for a yeast rec.
     
  13. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Grand Pooh-Bah (3,375) Dec 15, 2005 Pennsylvania
    Society Pooh-Bah

    Oh, my favorite lager yeast (hands down) is Wyeast 2124.

    Cheers!
     
  14. hopfenunmaltz

    hopfenunmaltz Pooh-Bah (2,635) Jun 8, 2005 Michigan
    Pooh-Bah

    You can lager in shorter times at -1C, if the beer is free of diacetyl.
     
  15. wspscott

    wspscott Pooh-Bah (1,958) May 25, 2006 Kentucky
    Pooh-Bah

    The obvious (to me) lager smash is a Bo Pils, just pils malt and Saaz (you probably want to add more :slight_smile:) I also like 2124 and I agree that you should plan on a long lagering period, it might be drinkable at 4 weeks but it will almost certainly improve with time.

    Do a Bo Pils now and it will be perfect for the middle of summer.
     
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  16. MLucky

    MLucky Initiate (0) Jul 31, 2010 California

    Partly on Jack's recommendation, I adopted 2124 as my house lager yeast. I'm really happy with it. A great yeast that has never given me the diacetyl or sulfur I've gotten from some other commonly used lager yeasts. Highly recommended!
     
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  17. sarcastro

    sarcastro Savant (1,133) Sep 20, 2006 Michigan

    I am going to use it in an upcoming pilsner. I havent been completely happy with my attempts until now with the urquell and german lager yeast. Just wasnt the clean profile I was looking for.
     
  18. HookerBrews

    HookerBrews Initiate (0) Sep 24, 2013 Oregon

    I did my first lager back at the beginning of winter. The recipe was modeled after Abita Amber Lager. We let it ferment at a fairly cool temperature for the first few weeks, as per the recipe. We got some great activity, did the diacetyl rest for a few days, then gradually put it in colder places until it was resting in a cold, non-insulated room that fluctuated between 32-42 degrees. When we racked into a carboy it looked absolutely GORGEOUS and had a wonderful flavor profile even in its early stages. I mention my lager because we didn't follow the rule of thumb for weeks of lagering. Instead, we wanted to go for a more natural, traditional approach and just let it sit there all winter, which is what an employee at our local brew store recommended. It's been in cold storage for a total of probably around 3 months and we're getting ready to bottle now that the weather is finally warming up. I can't wait to see how it's turned out, though I hope it's a success because we've been waiting literally all winter for it to be done.
     
  19. Naugled

    Naugled Pooh-Bah (1,944) Sep 25, 2007 New York
    Pooh-Bah

    To add to what the others said...

    If you're using a lot of pils make sure you boil for 90min.

    If you have a SS kettle use that, aluminum kettles seem to darken the wort, at least in my set up.

    One thing I typically do to ensure I have plenty of yeast is to brew a small batch first, like a 3 gal batch of a 1.040 pilsner, I'll bottle that, and the use the cake to pitch into a 5 gal batch of a stronger lager. However, I still make an appropriate starter for the 3 gal batch.

    I have yet to experience a lager yeast that doesn't throw off sulfur so don't be alarmed when you smell it.

    good luck,
     
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  20. carteravebrew

    carteravebrew Initiate (0) Jan 21, 2010 Colorado

    While your lager is fermenting in the temperature controlled chamber, don't inhale deeply when you open said chamber while checking on the beer. It kinda burns.
     
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