Kegging/Brewing Good beers

Carbonation levels, or volumes of co2, are a function of temperature relative to PSI. I use this chart:
http://www.kegerators.com/carbonation-table.php

 

Oxidation is avoided by purging your siphon, hoses, and your keg before racking into it. Avoiding any splashing while doing so. Some will push the beer via Co2 from their primary to the purged keg.

Dryhopping is solved by crashing your fermentation vessel if you dry hopped in there, or adding hops to a mesh sack and leaving it in the keg to dryhop in the keg. If you still have issues with debris, there are filter that can go over your dip tube, as well as the option of trimming the diptube to not pull from the very bottom.

PSI range, I have no idea what you are asking. It's dependent on your regulator. It's all dependent on what style of beer you have on, what carbonation volume you'd like, your line length, and the most important, the temperature that you want to serve the beer too. There are charts out there that will give you an easy to read guide on what PSI to set it to, based on temp to get X amount of volumes.

Start longer on your lines, and shorten them until you are happy if you don't care to go the science route. Longer lines= slower pour.

Kegging isn't hard.

 

Switching over to kegging is possibly the best change I have made in homebrewing. Definitely saves a ton of time and space. I would be way more worried about oxidation from bottling than kegging. You are transferring from fermentor to bottling bucket which is an open bucket with a large exposed surface area then another transfer to bottles. In most cases, even when bottling, you are not going to notice any oxidation. Kegging can almost eliminate those oxidation fears anyway. I dry hop in the keg, it allows me to get the beer carbonating faster and allows less time for the hop flavors to fade.

As others have pointed out, use that chart for psi at a given temp and use long beer lines to make your system easier to balance.

 

there are style guidelines that dictate the proper level of carbonation for most beers.
they are guidelines. you can chose to have as much or as little CO2 in your keg of homebrew as you want.
wheat beers and fruit beers tend to have the most carbonation, followed by light lagers. ales tend to fall in the middle. porters and stouts are typically not very carbonated.

answers above should cover everything else.
your question is a bit vague.
Cheers.

 

Uniquely phrased as well.......

Kegging is great, provided you have a well put together carbonating station that doesn't leak and gives you the confidence to leave kegs hooked up to tanks continuously to reach and maintain the perfect carbonation level.

 

Kegging wort is usually a bad idea.

 

^^^^ what they said ^^^^
Kegging is one of those things that you'll kick yourself for not having done sooner. Put together a system following most of the advice you get here and you'll be golden! It's easier than you probably think, though it can be pricey. Oxidation is only an issue if you're careless (it's not hard to do it right). Temperature is the same as it would be when bottling. Carbonation level is dead on, every time - no more carbonation surprises, ...ever! Etc. etc. etc. PSI is dictated by desired carbonation level and temperature -- there are no other factors to consider when setting the pressure!

The only times you'll have problems are when you stray from the advice and/or take shortcuts (especially when you take shortcuts). Force carbing, for example, is a piece of cake unless you're in a hurry (a shortcut) - that's when you come here and start asking predictable questions about foam . When you assemble your system, use high quality parts (you get what you pay for), use the correct line sizes, etc. Use good quality hose clamps, tighten them with a tool suitable to the task (a coin is not), and check for leaks.

 

well, just. well.
thanks.

 

Ask a harder question, next time.

 

I dont think there is much more else to say on this subject. Its a pretty simple process.

 

...idiots...thread closed.

Nice guy

 

Wow, that ended weird. Someone asks a question, gets good answers then is pissed.

 

In addition to www.howtobrew.com, you might want to read this too.

 

Did you want 10 more people to give you the same info? Would that suffice? Not completely sure what you are hoping for.

 

Someone said to purge a keg before racking to it, I have kegged more times than I can count and never purged one before hand, I fill then hit it with CO2 and purge the air out (about 3 times) and then give it 20 PSI for 6-7 days kick it down to 5-8 after that and serve, and or bottle with a beer gun. For bigger beers I might jack up the PSI and/or let it go longer at a higher PSI if I'm going to bottle.

 

I'm sure with that out going attitude, more people will be willing to help you going forward.