I brew exclusively extract-based beers, and I've noticed that virtually every recipe I've seen calls for both LME and some DME. Can someone please explain what each of these contribute (or what one contributes that the other doesn't) or why both are needed for most recipes? Should one be added at the beginning of the boil vs. the end? Can you substitute one for the other if needed, and would that negatively impact the outcome? If you are trying to drop your gravity, do both LME and DME need to be reduced proportionally or can you just eliminate/reduce one or the other without any negative impact?
s The reason many recipes call for both is that LME is cheaper, but harder to package/store in odd qtys. So you'll see the LME part is usually multiples of three pounds (or 3.15 lbs), with the balance of the malt extract malt filled with DME. Differences... - LME contributes less fermentables per pound than DME - LME stales more quickly before use - LME tends to darken with age before use, which will cause the beer to be darker Yes, you can substitute one for the other. One pound of LME is equivalent to about 0.8 lbs of DME. Either one can be added almost any time during the boil. Adding late has some advantages, including less wort darkening.
Nailed it. I always prefer to use DME for these reasons. Usually it is cheaper over LME once you factor in the extra gravity it adds per pound, ie you use less of it. Also easier to store after opening.
When I was using extracts regularly, I virtually always used DME. Easier to measure, easier to store, easier to use, cheaper to ship, lighter color, and more consistent from batch to batch. And you could add a couple of tablespoons to your milkshake to make a Malt (cheaper, more potent, and way more pure than the stuff they sell at the grocery store) LME is approx, 20% water. So, to substitute DME for LME in a recipe, multiply the LME quantity by 0.8. To sub LME for DME, multiply the DME quantity by 1.25.
I agree with everything said above, but I'll also add that the LME sinks to the bottom of your pot and is easily scorched if you add it with the flame turned on, or if you don't stir it well and get it into solution before turning your flame back on.
When I brew with extract, which is infrequently, I use DME for reasons expressed above. However, the availability of certain varieties of extract as liquid only -- Munich, Maris Otter, Rye, etc., would be good reason to use liquid if these types of grain are called for in the recipe.
I like to use DME over LME because of all the reasons that VikeMan mentioned above. I tend to primarily brew extract because of the time savings and my limited schedule and have started buying 50 lb bags of DME to save money. I can get 8-10 batches out of that, depending on the gravity/abv I'm going for, and it ends up costing me around $12-$15 per batch for my main fermentables compared to $25-$30 per batch if I bought either LME or DME for each batch individually.
@DrMindbender I was just going to ask if anyone has purchased the 50 pound bags of DME before and whether they were happy with the quality and shelf-life because to your point, the average batch cost would decrease significantly. Anyone else used the 50 lb bags in the past? If so, what has your experience been like? Have you been happy with your results?
For those who have purchased DME in bulk do you have any suggestions on the best or most cost-effective company or website to purchase DME through? Are there any companies or vendors that should be avoided? I ask because I just don't want to shell out the $180 that a 50 lb bag appears to cost and then get stuck with 50 pounds of poor quality extract.
When I was buying 50 lb sacks of DME, I would break it down into Zip Lock bags in 3 lb increments - a good number for me (YMMV). The last few bags got a little clumpy - this stiff is insanely hygroscopic. But the clumps would melt fairly quickly after they hit the boiling water.
I would rather eat dirt than deal with 50 lbs of DME, so I can't help there. But I would say that if you're brewing that much, it might be time to consider going all grain.
A fair point but some (myself included) don't have the extra time needed for all grain especially if small kids are in the house. Hard enough to get 4 hours to brew a batch with extract and specialty grains let alone 6-8 for an all grain (I'm including time to clean up)
I used to buy the 50 lb box and would finish it in about 3 - 4 months. I bagged it in 3 and 4 lb increments in zip lock bags. I did not have a problem with it clumping and it stayed fairly fresh but I did store all of the bags in an air tight container. After about 3 boxes I decided I would rather pay the extra money then break it up myself. DME is not fun to weigh out and bag. It sticks everywhere and gets in the air very easily. If I tried to dump it in the bag fast it kind of looked like when Lebron James throws that powder up in the air before games. My one piece of advice is to use the big zip locks. Staples sells folders that are made out of cheap flexable plastic material. I would put one of those in the ziplock to cover up where it seals. That way when I scoop the DME into the bag it does not stick to the sides and to the ziplock portion of the bag. Once it was at the weight I wanted I would pull out the folder and seal it up with as little air in there as possible. Hope that makes sense.
I have a couple homer buckets from home depot that I store bulk DME in. I brew a big stout or something similar once I get it and the rest of the 50/55lb bag fits in the two buckets. Keeps very well in there. No moisture issues thus far.
[QUOTE="VikeMan, post: 2763145, member: 348498" Either one can be added almost any time during the boil. Adding late has some advantages, including less wort darkening.[/QUOTE] Are there any disadvantages to adding the DME late (such as DMS being present as a result of it not having a chance to boil off for an extended period)? If not, why do most recipes call for you to add the DME as soon as your liquor/wort reaches a boil (before the first hop addition)? It seems like if there was no disadvantage to adding it late in the boil, the recipes would call for it to be added late. Thoughts?
First, some recipes do call for late extract additions. And some people add extract late, regardless of what the recipe says. From a DMS standpoint, extract doesn't need to boil as long as fresh all grain wort. With extracts, the DMS has already been removed. Some people will say that you need some extract early in the boil to allow the alpha acids from the hops to isomerize. I'm not sure that's true (I think it's not), but a lot of people compromise by adding half (or less) of the extract early, and the rest late.
@VikeMan , Gotcha. That makes sense. Thank you for the clarification and insight. This is great information to have. Based on the comments above, I will no longer be using LME except when my recipe calls for Maris Otter or Rye, and I think I'll be picking up a 50 lb bag of DME. This will save me some serious money and will hopefully also help improve my freshness, quality, and consistency (from batch to batch). Thank you to all who contributed to this thread!
