Hi, Try this guide, scroll down for a map. There is a cluster of BrauHauses around a big square about 10 minutes walk from the main station. http://www.europeanbeerguide.net/kolnpubs.htm
Früh am Dom is the closest to the Cathedral ("Dom"). If you have time for a little bit of walking, head down to the Heumarkt (or take an S-Bahn one stop) and find Brauerei zur Malzmühle (aka Mühlen). Not far from Groß St. Martin's is Ausschank der Brauerei zum Pfaffen Max Päffgen, which I have never been to but have heard good things. Or you can catch an S-Bahn to Ehrenfeld to visit Braustelle.
When will you be there? I would say make the 10min walk to Heumarkt,as mjterney suggested, and hit Mühlen, Pfaffen and Päffgen. Arguably the 3 best. Id skip Früh as it is nothing special as far as beer is concerned, at least imo.
Mid October. Actually spending most of my time on the Mosel, but we are going to spend an afternoon in Cologne checking out the cathedral and having some Kolsch.
gotcha. if you need more advice, have time for a beer, or want to trade something send me a msg. ill be living in Bonn as of monday cheers
IMHO there isn't a massive difference in the actual beers offered by the various Kolsch breweries (i.e., they are all good), but it is a lot of fun visiting each one and collecting a bier deckle (beer mat) as a souvenir, then framing the collection. Don't discount Fruh am Dom, it has an outside area where you can drink nice beer and be looking at one of the greatest man-made structures on planet Earth.
Ill give you the view at Früh, but drinking a Kölsch along the Rhein or at Heumarkt at Pfaffen offers wonderful views as well. But I have to disagree that all Kölsch is the same, I used to be falsely under the same impression. Their is quite a range of intricacies, discovering them is of course part of the fun. Try gaffel and then mühlen and I am guessing youll never want a gaffel again.
If you're spending most of your time on the Mosel make sure you stop at the Kloster Machern they have great food and the beer ain't too bad either. It's right across from Zeltingen near Bernkastel.
Also, if you're on the lower Mosel (near Koblenz), make sure to visit Vulkan Brauerei in Mendig near the Laacher See. It's a nice little private brewery with a Gasthof. The beer is nothing special, but very solid. Hell, Dunkel, Weizen. I heard they were making a Pale Ale this summer, but it wasn't available already when I was there in August. Maybe it will be in October.
Made it to Pfaffen, not only was the Kolsch very good, but the people inside were super friendly. Also stopped by Vulkan, cool place, good food and decent beer. The Dunkel was ok, and the Pale Ale had pretty good flavor. Thanks again guys!
Vulkan is really cool. They were at the beer festival here last weekend, and they want to put their pale ale in cans next year-I hope they will follow through with it. Locally produced single hop pale ale in cans....Yay! Glad you liked it. Nice guys, nice beer.