Please diagnose my issue

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by jcojr72, Jan 16, 2015.

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  1. jcojr72

    jcojr72 Initiate (0) Mar 31, 2009 Massachusetts

    I moved about a year ago now, and ever since the move my beers have not been nearly as good. I have about 70 batches in total under my belt, and about 8 since the move. The beers are tasting dull, have an off taste that I do not know how to describe, and most notably the hops are very muted. In many instances I have dry hopped the beers heavily, 3-6 oz dry hops for 5 gallons and yet the hops are still barely noticeable.

    I have spent a lot of time trying to diagnose this, and have ideas that I will change for my next batch, but wanted to see if I might be overlooking something. To start, here are the main differences between how I brew now vs how I used to brew.

    1. Water part 1 - I used to have well water, and had it figured out for water modifications. Now I use city water which treats its water with chlorine. From my water report, last month it had an average of 2.54 Total residual chlorine. To deal with this I have been using camden tablets, but I am wondering if it is not working. My process is this: using 3 pots on my stove I bring my strike water up to temperature. While they are heating up, I pull out 1 camden tablet and crush it up. I drop a third of the powder into each pot. Sometime the water is almost boiling when I do this, does it need to be cold water? I then dump the water into my cooler mash tun and add the grains to start my mash. I then use another tablet with the same process for my sparge water. I end up using 2 tablets for my 5 gallon batch (but that is about 10 gallons of water). I know the 2 tablets are good for 20 gallons, but they are cheap and as it is it seems like when I break the tablet up I am adding such a small amount to each pot. See any flaws here? I am going to pick up some chlorine testing strips tonight to try and rule this out.

    2. Water part 2 - The city water has the following makeup: Alkalinity (as CaCO3)=35, Ca=24.5, Mg=5.1, Cl=176, SO4=25, Na=110. In order to lower the sodium and chloride concentrations, I usually use about 30% distilled water. My last beer was an IPA with the following water after treating, Ca=115, Mg=3, Na=74, Cl=118, SO4=178, HCO3=29. One odd thing is that I usually never hit my calculated mash pH. For instance, this beer had a calcualted mash pH=5.58, so I had planned to add 2 mL of lactic acid for a pH=5.48, but I ended up measuring a mash pH=5.38 so did not add the lactic. I have checked my pH meter calibration, but the solution is about 2 years old, so I just ordered some new solution. Does anything seem odd here?

    3. Sparge water - As I mentioned before, I use about 30% distilled water, which is usually 3 gallons. I use all this in the sparge water, so my sparge water is typically more than 50% distilled and the remaining city water. I have not been acidfying my sparge water, but maybe I am extracting tannins from the sparge?

    4. Boil - I used to brew with a 4500W 240V heating element. I do not have 240V power now, so I use 2 elements (1)-1500W and (1)-2000W. With this less power, it takes me much longer to get my boil going (especially on cold days), and I do not get quite as strong a boil. I am still able to get about 1 gallon/hr boil off. I do not think this is an issue, but it is one of the changes from my previous setup.

    Any ideas? Again the most noticeable problem is how muted my hoppy beers have become. They used to be spot on, with in your face hop aromas and flavors. Now, I can sometimes barely tell I dry hopped the beer. Help please!!
     
  2. VikeMan

    VikeMan Grand Pooh-Bah (3,067) Jul 12, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah

    I don't see anything wrong with the way you are treating for chlorine. (Though I don't know offhand what a "normal" chlorine level would look like compared to yours.) That aside, I wouldn't expect "dull" flavors from chlorine. I'd expect it to combine with phenols, creating plastic/band-aid flavors.

    It's possible you're extracting more tannins than you did before, which would depend partially on the pH your wort is reaching during the sparge. Additional tannins could cause astringency, and/or chlorophenols if combined with chlorine, but again, not the "dull" flavor I think you're describing.

    For the dull flavor, I do wonder if your final beer pH is higher than normal, and so...was the wort pH higher than you think? Definitely check your meter.

    Also, can you try hard to describe the "off taste that I do not know how to describe?" Does it remind you in any way of anything? (Plastic? Band-aid? Medicinal?)
     
  3. jamescain

    jamescain Initiate (0) Jul 14, 2009 Texas

    I would recommend checking your pH meter like @VikeMan said, but also check your final post fermentation pH.
    Would this matter much if you're batch sparging or just if you're fly sparging?
     
  4. dmtaylor

    dmtaylor Savant (1,149) Dec 30, 2003 Wisconsin

    One word: sulfate. Use more gypsum. Try that first and let us know if it doesn't work.
     
  5. VikeMan

    VikeMan Grand Pooh-Bah (3,067) Jul 12, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah

    IMO 178 ppm SO4 shouldn't be the cause of his "dull" flavor problem, subjective though the term may be.
     
    #5 VikeMan, Jan 16, 2015
    Last edited: Jan 16, 2015
  6. VikeMan

    VikeMan Grand Pooh-Bah (3,067) Jul 12, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah

    All other things being equal, the risk is much lower with batch sparging.
     
  7. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Grand Pooh-Bah (3,375) Dec 15, 2005 Pennsylvania
    Society Pooh-Bah

    “The beers are tasting dull, have an off taste that I do not know how to describe, and most notably the hops are very muted.”

    Boy, the aspects to “tasting dull” and “hops are very muted” sure sounds like a water issue to me. I am sure that you have considered this as well given the amount of detail you provided concerning your brewing water.

    You mentioned the water profile for you latest IPA: “Ca=115, Mg=3, Na=74, Cl=118, SO4=178, HCO3=29.”

    Of the ions of Ca, Mg, Na, Cl, and SO4 the only value that seems a bit ‘out of whack’ is the Mg level. In past published materials, John Palmer has a recommend range for Mg of 10-30. He also states: “Magnesium is an important yeast nutrient in small amounts (10 -20 ppm)”. Given that last statement I don’t envision a low Mg level yielding a flavor impact.

    You mentioned: “I ended up measuring a mash pH=5.38.” That is a good value if you measured accurately.

    Well, I am stumped at this point in time.

    Hopefully some other water folks like @utahbeerdude will have some thoughts.

    Cheers!
     
  8. NeroFiddled

    NeroFiddled Grand High Pooh-Bah (7,276) Jul 8, 2002 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah Trader

    Just heating the water will drive off the chlorine, no need to add sodium metabisulfite (campden tablets).

    My overall guess is that your city water contains less minerals, and therefore the bland flavors. Distilled water is probably not helping if that's the case.

    Another note, city water readings vary, and depending on where the water is coming from and the time of the year, there can be great fluctuation.
     
    #8 NeroFiddled, Jan 16, 2015
    Last edited: Jan 16, 2015
  9. VikeMan

    VikeMan Grand Pooh-Bah (3,067) Jul 12, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah

    Yeast get as much magnesium as they need from the wort (i.e. the malt). I usually build from distilled water, and those batches have 0 added Mg. I think you are correct in that low Mg in the water shouldn't cause an off-flavor, though too high a level can cause some interesting problems.
     
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  10. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Grand Pooh-Bah (3,375) Dec 15, 2005 Pennsylvania
    Society Pooh-Bah

    There has been some discussion of the sulfate level. FWIW, John Palmer recommends a range of 50 - 350 and the value of 178 is comfortably within that recommended range.

    Also the Chloride/Sulfate ratio for the IPA water is 0.66 which should be OK for a hop forward beer; this ratio should not mute hops.

    Cheers!

    Edit. Maybe having a higher sulfate level will increase the perception of 'hoppiness' but I do not think it should be required?
     
  11. minderbender

    minderbender Initiate (0) Jan 18, 2009 New York

    There's a distinction between chlorine, which degases fairly readily, and chloramine, which (if I understand correctly) does not. Many municipalities use chloramine to treat their water. I don't think it's a bad idea to take steps to eliminate chlorine (in its various forms) from the water. Personally I prefer to let my water sit out overnight, and then to add a small amount of ascorbic acid (vitamin C) to eliminate any residual chlorine. (NYC does not add chloramine to its water, but in any case ascorbic acid removes both chlorine and chloramine.)

    When I hear "muted hops" and "dull hop flavor" I think "oxidation." But nothing indicates any change in procedures that would have this result.

    My only other observation is that the water seems somewhat high in sodium chloride. I would try a batch built up from distilled water, with a more normal level of sodium, and see if this addresses the problem.
     
  12. Naugled

    Naugled Pooh-Bah (1,944) Sep 25, 2007 New York
    Pooh-Bah

    Maybe it's a hop problem?
    Are the hops old?
    Did your hops travel in a moving van through the desert in the middle of summer?
    Did you try newer fresher hops?
     
  13. VikeMan

    VikeMan Grand Pooh-Bah (3,067) Jul 12, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah

    I keep my hops in a van down by the river.
     
  14. jcojr72

    jcojr72 Initiate (0) Mar 31, 2009 Massachusetts

    I will taste again tonight and try to better describe.

    The new pH calibration solution is on delivery, should have next week. A bad pH meter might explain all of this!
     
  15. jcojr72

    jcojr72 Initiate (0) Mar 31, 2009 Massachusetts

    The city treats the water with chloramine which, from what I read does not easily boil off.
     
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  16. jcojr72

    jcojr72 Initiate (0) Mar 31, 2009 Massachusetts

    I originally thought oxidation too, but this last batch I did a closed CO2 transfer from the carboy to the corney, I thought it would solve the problem, but no.

    I agree, I will build the next batch with distilled water.
     
  17. jcojr72

    jcojr72 Initiate (0) Mar 31, 2009 Massachusetts

    These are fresh. I store my hops in ball lock jars that I remove the oxygen from and keep in the freezer. They smell great before being used.
     
  18. jcojr72

    jcojr72 Initiate (0) Mar 31, 2009 Massachusetts

    Thanks all, I will try and rule out chlorine and pH issues in the next few days and go from there. Frustrating.
     
  19. NeroFiddled

    NeroFiddled Grand High Pooh-Bah (7,276) Jul 8, 2002 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah Trader

    I'm so curious about this. I need to know!!!

    Looking at it again...

    Point #2: What is your total Alkalinity? Not just the measurement of components.

    And how did you calculate this: "My last beer was an IPA with the following water after treating, Ca=115, Mg=3, Na=74, Cl=118, SO4=178, HCO3=29"?

    Point #3: As long as you're not over-sparging your pH should be OK. (Scary as it is, most craft breweries do not even bother with pH readings or sparge-water acidification). But your thoughts on extracting tannins confuse me... do the beers seem astringent?
     
  20. Naugled

    Naugled Pooh-Bah (1,944) Sep 25, 2007 New York
    Pooh-Bah

    The subtle issues are the toughest ones to figure out. You sound like a fairly advanced brewer. I assume you have a tap set up. Have you tried replacing the lines? Maybe after 70 batches they are ready to go, and it just happened to coincide with your move?
     
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