I've been brewing extract batches with specialty grains for 4 batches now. I've noticed that every batch I've made, while a different type of beer from pale ale to stout, has the same aftertaste. It's difficult to describe but they all have a mineral/metallic aftertaste. I noticed this after the third batch and subsequently analyzed what I was doing in my process that could repeat these results. Here's what I've found: -StarSan used to sanitize equipment and bottles (however aftertaste is noticed post-fermentation pre-bottling) -Use of liquid malt extract -Ale yeast (Danstar Nottingham dry yeast) -Water (tap from the same source) For my latest batch I held all of these factors constant except I treated the water with gypsum to achieve the proper pH for pale ale (according to How to Brew). I still get some of the metallic aftertaste. Anyone have experience with this or insight on where to go next? Thanks!
Extract already contains whatever minerals were in the water at the time it was produced, so you are double dipping in terms of mineral content. I'd suggest trying a batch made with distilled or RO water to see if that clears up the issue for you.
TBonez, I experienced this with my first few extract kits. It was odd as I could taste it but many of my friends did not. Now, I don't know if they were trying to be nice and not break my stones, but I specifically asked them about it and asked them to be honest. They still could not taste any off flavors. It seemed to be stronger in darker beers, which made me believe I was steeping at too high a temperature at first. I checked all my notes from brewing these kits and all but one, I was under 170 F while steeping. I began to use 1/4 Campden tablet for a 5 gallon batch and have not noticed the taste since. I use my tap water and painstakingly draw it from my refrigerator which has a changeable filter. Might be worth a try as the tablets are cheap. Good luck
Thanks guys. I have used the same brand LME across the board, from the same shop. Wonder if theirs is gathering dust. Might order next time instead.
I've gone through this same thing. It was a slight aftertaste that I couldn't put my finger on. As you said, none of my friends tasted it and they were raiding my beer fridge non-stop, they loved the stuff. Not saying it wasn't good, all the beers were great! Just that slight strange aftertaste. When I forgot to add gypsum in one of my batches I realized it went away. I live out in the country and use well water in brewing. I have a high mineral content.
I've done about 5 extract batches (using LME made by my LHBS) and 5 all grain batches now. Every single one of my extract batches had a similar aftertaste whether it was a pale ale or imperial stout. Some were good and some were bad but they all had the same aftertaste. Since I've switched to all grain I haven't had any issues with the aftertaste, although I did also get my fermentation temperature under control when I made the switch as well so that could have influenced it.
Going to all-grain really does change everything from mouth feel to potential off tastes that might stem from ingredients not being the most fresh. I've had a couple of batches of beer turn out strange (Still good) and found out the DME was super old, and the kit had been sitting on the shelf for a long time. Going all-grain and buying from a well known brew supply store gives you a better chance of getting fresh grains and materials.
Thanks for the advice everyone. I'll make sure I source the freshest stuff possible this next time a determine if that has an impact. I've been considering the upgrade to all-grain (along with the education to go along with the equipment) but haven't talked myself into the investment yet.
Have you been doing full volume boils with your beers (as opposed to boiling only part of the wort and diluting with water)? If not you should give it a try. My extract beers improved substantially, from what I recall, when I made that change.
What he said, and, if you cannot boil 5 gallons at once (as you don't have a kettle that holds at least 6+ gallons and/or you don't have a way to cool down 5 gallons of wort) then don't add all your extract to your non-full volume boil. Instead add only enough extract to get too roughly your target o.g. for the boil and add the rest just before you finish the boil. You will get better hop utilization this way and it might also help with the metallic taste. Also search this forum or others for "extract twang" for other tips on eliminating variables which can cause it. Stale extract is bad but often the problem is more about temperature control, doing a full volume boil, using water which has chemicals (like chlorines) removed, etc.
Defintely this. I had been brewing for quite a few years already before I did my first all extract full wort boil in the early '80s. The difference was incredible, and I continued that practice until taking the plunge into all grain a couple years later.
I'm at a similar level of experience as you right now, having done 4 batches nearly the same way and one out of a kit. My differences are that I use store-bought spring water and DME. I do partial boils and dilute, though after reading through this I may be changing that, and have not picked up any off flavors in any batch but my very first from a kit. That kit did contain LME, turned out super dark compared to what it should have looked like, and was overly bitter and metallic. I haven't used LME or kits since.
I am confused about adjusting the ph. Isn't the ph adjusted during the mash? Did you add gympum during the boil? Did you check the ph of the boil then make adjustments? If you used your water report to make adjustments then added the LME you have no idea what that ph is now. The grains used to make the LME will have an impact on the ph. If you're getting a metallic like flavor it could be the water and now you just added more minerals into the boil, which would only make the situation worse. Try RO or distilled water coupled with full boils and fresh LME, actually I would go DME personally or 50/50.
