Whirlpool and Dry hop Quantities in NE DIPA

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by RBCBrams17, Oct 4, 2016.

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  1. RBCBrams17

    RBCBrams17 Savant (1,037) Aug 22, 2014 Illinois

    Cross posted on homebrewtalk, so sorry if you've already seen this but I value the info I learn from this sight just as much, if not more:

    So I've brewed a number of New England/Northeast pale ales and my DIPA specifically I've brewed 6 times prior. Each time I feel like I'm getting closer and closer to achieving exactly what I'm looking for. I feel like I finally have the malt bill and types of hops locked in, I'm just toying with the hop schedule.

    There's no way to get around the fact that these beers take a boat load of hops, but I'm trying to figure out where the hops are best used to I can cut down where they aren't as necessary. I'm torn between these two schedules. The first uses a bit more hops in the boil, and a close to equal hop stand and dry hop. Its pretty close to what I've done so far just with a smaller bittering charge:

    .5 Apollo at 60
    1 oz Citra, and 1 oz Mosaic at 10
    2oz Citra, 2 oz Mosaic, 1 oz Amarillo Hop stand at 180 degrees for 45 min
    2 oz each Citra, Mosaic, and Amarillo split into two dry hops


    My second schedule looks like this, just using Apollo in the boil, cutting the whirlpool hops down just slightly, and adding an even bigger dry hop.

    .5 Apollo at 60
    1.5 oz Apollo at 10
    2oz Citra, 2 oz Mosaic at 180 degrees for 45 min
    3 oz Citra, 3 oz Mosaic, and 2oz Amarillo split into two dry hops

    So here's the real question. In New England style pales, are the dry hops or the hop stand hops where you get most of the good stuff? I've seen recipes where the hop stand hops are greater in quantity than the dry hop, I've seen recipes where there's 10 oz of dry hops, and I've seen them around equal. The Trillium clones I've seen, with info contributed by their brewer, has a smaller than I expected whirlpool addition and almost all flavoring hops used in massive dry hop additions.

    So which schedule looks better? Whats the bigger deal, the dry hop or the whirlpool, or are they equally important in this style of beer?
     
  2. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Grand Pooh-Bah (3,375) Dec 15, 2005 Pennsylvania
    Society Pooh-Bah

    I am confident that Dave (@telejunkie) will be able to provide some good input here.

    Cheers!
     
    RBCBrams17 likes this.
  3. RBCBrams17

    RBCBrams17 Savant (1,037) Aug 22, 2014 Illinois

    While I'm curious about the general question of where the hops do the most good, I'm also brewing what I hope to be the final version of my house DIPA recipe this weekend, so if grain bill and gravity matters at all to my question of hop schedule, here's that info:

    OG is usually right around 1.075. I usually shoot for an FG around 1.013 or 14. I target around 8% ABV.

    I don't have my exact recipe in front of me, but its something like:

    11 lb 8oz two row
    2 lb flaked wheat
    1 lb white wheat
    8 oz carapils
    6 oz honey malt
    12 oz corn sugar

    Mash at 150
     
  4. telejunkie

    telejunkie Savant (1,107) Sep 14, 2007 Vermont

    thanks Jack…:grimacing:
    I think @JCTetreault from Trillium said it best "It's all important"…to me, the whirlpool and or late boil hops, you are starting to build your hop oil profile for the beer. My latest IPA was all Apollo in the boil & whirlpool, then Citra, Mosaic & Azacca in the dry hop. If I were to brew it again, I may opt for a bit of Citra & Azacca along with the Apollo in the whirlpool, since the flavor of the beer doesn't quite follow through with the citrus/tropical fruit blast of aroma. As you may have heard, Brulosophy did a exBEERiment on whirlpool vs. late hop addition which seemed to show that in that test waiting the extra time for whirlpool hopping was not needed: http://brulosophy.com/2016/05/02/hop-stand-vs-20-minute-boil-addition-exbeeriment-results/
    Just one data point though...
    Dry hopping is going to be just as much about the quantity & the hop selection as it is how you get the hops in the beer. Oxygen is the enemy and you need to figure out techniques to remove its ingress into the beer: https://byo.com/stories/issue/item/3187-advanced-dry-hopping-techniques
    But to sum it up, both are important. Dry hopping and the process under which you perform you dry hopping is going to be paramount to the whirlpool though.
     
  5. RBCBrams17

    RBCBrams17 Savant (1,037) Aug 22, 2014 Illinois

    In an attempt to minimize oxygen pickup I dry hop my first charge while fermentation is active. I transfer from the carboy to keg using Co2 onto my second round of dry hops, and then purge the keg again. Since kegging I haven't had any detectable oxidation issues.

    I had read that exbeeriment and while interesting, it compares the 20 minute addition vs a flameout hopstand. I usually chill to about 180 before adding my hopstand hops so its only getting limited isomerization. I'm leaning towards the larger dose of hops in the dry hop at 8 oz rather than the whirlpool, but 4 oz in the whirlpool isn't exactly skimping anyway.
     
  6. SFACRKnight

    SFACRKnight Grand Pooh-Bah (3,348) Jan 20, 2012 Colorado
    Pooh-Bah Trader

    I utilized a full pound of Citra in my lawsons double sunshine clone and feel it was about right.
     
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  7. invertalon

    invertalon Pooh-Bah (2,249) Jan 27, 2009 Ohio
    Pooh-Bah Trader

    In my NE DIPA side by side with fresh Trillium stuff, you can't really tell the difference aside from hop variety flavor. I nailed my NE type recipe, although I will likely try to drop the hop quantities a bit to see if the result changes. And vary the hops of course for different flavors.

    For 5-gal, I used about 6oz in the hop stand/whirlpool and 9oz in the dry hop split between near FG and another once at FG a few days. I plan to drop both of these values slightly for my next one, likely to about 4oz and 6oz respectively.

    Note, I also still put a hefty bittering charge for balance and some late additions as well. It's not just hop bursting, those are way too imbalanced and boring to me. I want some bitterness bite in there.

    This beer has been on tap for nearly two months now, still tasting awesome and no real big drop off yet. Still pungent aroma and flavor. It's been awesome.
     
    thatche2, RBCBrams17 and Robtobfest like this.
  8. RBCBrams17

    RBCBrams17 Savant (1,037) Aug 22, 2014 Illinois

    Awesome, thanks everyone for the info!
     
  9. Robtobfest

    Robtobfest Initiate (0) Oct 21, 2009 Connecticut

    One thing.ill theow oit there because its worked well for me. I whirlpool at 160 until it gets to 145 then go to carboy. Over many brews I have found that this temp minimizes bitterness and gives a rounded taste and aroma. This is great in hoppy pale ales where you dont want as much of a bitterness bite. Also works well with a good 60 min charge on an ipa as to not pull too many ibu that I find hard to calculate at these temps and contact times. The first beer I brewed at this whirlpool temp won 1st in my first and only competition.
     
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  10. RBCBrams17

    RBCBrams17 Savant (1,037) Aug 22, 2014 Illinois

    Another question I'm interested in everyone's opinion on before I brew this beer on Monday would be the use of Flaked Wheat Vs Flaked Oats. I've used both in these types of beers and haven't noticed much difference, but I've never done a side by side comparison. I know Trillium tends to use flaked wheat more, and I've seen flaked oats in a bunch of others. Is there a benefit one way or another?

    I know this is off topic in my own thread, but I hate to start a new one just for this.
     
  11. telejunkie

    telejunkie Savant (1,107) Sep 14, 2007 Vermont

    everyone's perception is different…but I find that flaked wheat has a bit more of a neutral or 'expected' profile in the beer while flaked oats leans more toward getting the flavor profile over towards oatmeal tasting. That may sound kinda dumb, but when I used 20% flaked oats in an IPA, I definitely seemed to pick out the flaked oats in the profile. I don't remember doing that when using high percentage of flaked wheat in say a hefe or wit.
     
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  12. HawkeyeBeerLover

    HawkeyeBeerLover Initiate (0) Jun 30, 2015 Wisconsin

    Would you mind sharing your recipe? I've just started brewing and am eager to learn/try from others.
     
  13. RBCBrams17

    RBCBrams17 Savant (1,037) Aug 22, 2014 Illinois

    For sure. I've brewed this recipe a number of times with a number of tweaks, each time improving a bit. I feel like this should be the final version and should be a great creamy, juicy DIPA.

    Batch Size (fermenter): 6.00 gal
    Estimated OG: 1.075 SG
    Estimated Color: 5.3 SRM
    Estimated IBU: 36.8 IBUs Calculated but in reality will be higher
    Est Mash Efficiency: 73.0 %
    Boil Time: 60 Minutes

    Amt Name Type # %/IBU
    10 lbs 4.0 oz Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 1 62.4 %
    2 lbs 8.0 oz Oats, Flaked (1.0 SRM) Grain 2 15.2 %
    1 lbs 12.0 oz White Wheat Malt (2.4 SRM) Grain 3 10.6 %
    8.0 oz Carapils (Briess) (1.5 SRM) Grain 4 3.0 %
    6.0 oz Honey Malt (Gambrinus) (25.0 SRM) Grain 5 2.3 %
    5.0 oz Acid Malt (3.0 SRM) Grain 6 1.9 %
    12.0 oz Corn Sugar (Dextrose) (0.0 SRM) Sugar 7 4.6 %

    0.25 oz Apollo [17.00 %] – Boil 60.0 min Hop 8 12.0 IBUs
    1.00 oz Citra [12.00 %] – Boil 10.0 min Hop 9 12.3 IBUs
    1.00 oz Mosaic (HBC 369) [12.25 %] – Boil 10.0 m Hop 10 12.5 IBUs
    2.00 oz Citra [12.00 %] – Steep/Whirlpool 0.0 m Hop 11 0.0 IBUs
    2.00 oz Mosaic (HBC 369) [12.25 %] – Steep/Whirl Hop 12 0.0 IBUs
    1.00 oz Galaxy [14.00 %] – Steep/Whirlpool 0.0 Hop 13 0.0 IBUs

    2 oz Citra [12.00 %] – Dry Hop 1
    2 oz Mosaic (HBC 369) [12.25 %] – Dry Hop 1
    1 oz Galaxy [14.00 %] – Dry Hop 1

    1 oz Citra [12.00 %] – Dry Hop 2
    1 oz Mosaic (HBC 369) [12.25 %] – Dry Hop 2
    1 oz Galaxy [14.00 %] – Dry Hop 2
     
  14. Oakhtar

    Oakhtar Initiate (0) Jul 6, 2013 California

    I just kegged (first time kegging) a similar NE style IPA, and after double dry hopping Mosaic (2.5 oz each time) it appears I clogged my keg line. From higher up on the thread it sounds like you dry hop in a keg, any clogging issues or preventative measures you take to avoid clogging? I actually dry hopped in the primary and avoided secondary altogether. Seems like I will have to rack into a car boy and do some keg cleaning, then transfer back to the keg. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
     
    #14 Oakhtar, Oct 13, 2016
    Last edited: Oct 13, 2016
  15. Jesse14

    Jesse14 Initiate (0) Jul 21, 2011 Massachusetts

    If you have a clog in the dip tube just hook up the gas to the outpost. The reverse pressure should clear the tube. Check your ball lock and post too and make sure they are clear. Then let it settle for a day or two and try again. I would not transfer to a carboy unless all options fail. You will oxidize it quick that way.
     
  16. RBCBrams17

    RBCBrams17 Savant (1,037) Aug 22, 2014 Illinois

    I do a dry hop in the primary, and then a second in the keg. I bag the keg hops and add some steel washers to weigh it down. I then tie the bag to the keg handle with some unwaxed dental floss and seal and purge the keg. I transfer from the primary with a closed Co2 system, and then purge the keg again. I remove the bag after 5 days and purge again, but you could probably leave it in too.
     
  17. HawkeyeBeerLover

    HawkeyeBeerLover Initiate (0) Jun 30, 2015 Wisconsin

    Is dry hopping essential for the NE beer? I've had a handful of TH stuff and found it amazing, but I don't believe it was DDH. I haven't been the biggest fan of DDH beers, but that's just my amateur palate.
     
  18. hoptualBrew

    hoptualBrew Initiate (0) May 29, 2011 Florida



    Modify your dip tube.
     
  19. RBCBrams17

    RBCBrams17 Savant (1,037) Aug 22, 2014 Illinois

    Dry hopping is essential to this style, but a double dry hop isn't. I like to do it because dry hopping while the yeast is still active will do different things than dry hopping in the keg. The yeast will interact with the hop oils to create new flavors and aromas. Keg hops are a bit more raw in my experience. I do it twice to get the best of both worlds.
     
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  20. Oakhtar

    Oakhtar Initiate (0) Jul 6, 2013 California

    Thanks for the responses. Even though I dry hopped in the primary, I did not use a hop bag, and I will definitely be using one in the future. I had to unclog both the top of the dip stick, ball lock and post. Happened three times, so I ended up reracking to a carboy. Probably a good decision because there was just way too much hop residue left behind. I may have oxidized my beer, but it was a good learning experience. Live and learn.
     
    RBCBrams17 likes this.
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