Bigger mash tun...bad idea?

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by redgorillabreath, Feb 3, 2017.

Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.
  1. redgorillabreath

    redgorillabreath Zealot (511) Mar 29, 2015 Pennsylvania

    Wondering if folks have experience that tells you this is a bad idea...

    My mash tun maxes out at mashes with 20 pounds of grain. Need more capacity.

    I'm looking at a 30 gallon rectangular cooler as the step up, capacity wise. It would basically be what I have now (which works well), just bigger.

    Does anyone see why this is a bad route? Cost is a big consideration.

    Thanks / cheers!
     
  2. inchrisin

    inchrisin Pooh-Bah (2,013) Sep 25, 2008 Indiana
    Pooh-Bah

    How much homebrew are you going through per month?

    I have a 15 gal rectangle cooler and I'm happy. I have a 15 gal kettle and can knock out 10 gal of session beer or parti-gyle a barlywine and a session beer afterwards.

    The better question back into your court is: "What are your expectations of a 30 gal cooler? You could make about 18-20 gal of barleywine at a time, depending on your recipe.

    Play with this mashing volume calculator at the bottom of the site"Can I Mash It?":

    https://www.rackers.org/calcs.shtml
     
    PapaGoose03 and GormBrewhouse like this.
  3. GormBrewhouse

    GormBrewhouse Pooh-Bah (2,111) Jun 24, 2015 Vermont
    Pooh-Bah

    If you need bigger, try Walmart. My rectangular cooler holds around 28 lbs of grain and cost $25.
    My problem with a large cooler is when I am making a session ale ,say 4.5 abv. The thin grain beb does not filter out fines so well. So I bought a smaller colder for session beers. It barely holds 14 lbs, but the fines filtering is improved.
     
  4. 1beerbaron

    1beerbaron Initiate (0) Mar 24, 2009 Ohio

    I have a 15 gallon kettle as a mash tun for 5 gallon batches. I would never go back to a smaller mash tun. It's a little over-sized for most beers, but not so much that I can use it, and I brewed a barleywine that had a SG of 1.107 that was all grain in a single mash. I like the versatility, but you have to be careful going too large (and the mash tun setup decides what "too large" is).
     
    GormBrewhouse likes this.
  5. PapaGoose03

    PapaGoose03 Grand High Pooh-Bah (6,057) May 30, 2005 Michigan
    BA4LYFE Society Pooh-Bah

    Think about whether you might ever have to lift and carry that big bulky cooler when it's full.
     
  6. GreenKrusty101

    GreenKrusty101 Initiate (0) Dec 4, 2008 Nevada

    A 10 gal mashtun will be sufficient for just about any 5 gal batch (~27#s). A little extract in a big beer will go unnoticed, imho.
     
  7. 1beerbaron

    1beerbaron Initiate (0) Mar 24, 2009 Ohio

    That is true. I still wanted to be able to do a 1.110 OG beer with no extract though...
     
  8. DunkelFester

    DunkelFester Zealot (607) Aug 24, 2004 Pennsylvania

    A 30 gallon mash tun is big.

    How big? At 1.25 qt/lb, it will hold 70 pounds of grain with some room to spare. Unless you're routinely making 20 gallon batches >1.110, it's *probably* overkill. It may also make smaller batches/lower-gravity brews problematic (unless you're planning to keep the smaller one for those). Kettle size is also a consideration. i.e. can you boil 20+ gallons? Are do you plan to boil two smaller batches from the same mash?
     
    GormBrewhouse likes this.
  9. HopsintheSack

    HopsintheSack Initiate (0) Apr 17, 2012 California

    One negative of too much space is loss of temp. In my expeience the more air space left in the tun makes it drop temp quicker. Nothing probably to really worry about, but a data point.
     
  10. danmc

    danmc Aspirant (297) Mar 16, 2007 California

    I agree with HopsintheSack. I have a 20 gallon SS Mashtun (which I love). But recently brewed on a colder day (55 degrees which is cold in SoCal). I nailed my mash temp with my strike water, but then watched it quickly go down to 135 degrees. It was a 12 lb batch so over half of the mashtun was dead space. The beer ended up fermenting down to 1.003. Extremely dry and extremely disappointing in flavor when I kegged it. That being said, I was able to fit 40 lbs of grain in this 20 gallon mashtun on another day and made an exceptional 10 gallon batch of double IPA. So if I can fit 40lbs in a 20 gallon mashtun, I would say 30 gallons is definitely overkill unless you are brewing 15+ gallon batches.
     
  11. redgorillabreath

    redgorillabreath Zealot (511) Mar 29, 2015 Pennsylvania

    Too many substantive comments to quote them all. Many thanks!

    We go through 1-3 bottles per day, but I also store 30%-50% of the batch for my son and former brew buddy who lives away from the house. My other son/brew-buddy helps go through the home brew. Since we really prefer what we make over what we can buy (for anything close to a reasonable price), it's got to be the home brew.

    Honestly, I'm feeling too tired and lazy to run the calculations right now. Tomorrow hopefully. One of my repeat recipes is a tripel that uses 17# of grain. Doing 2 mashes to come up with a 10 gallon batch of that was a real drag.

    Anyway, if I go ahead with a big ol' mash tun, I'd still have the current one.

    I'd rather not throw in the DME, but it's certainly a rational consideration although it feels like I'd be adulterating my 100% grain batches. A personal hang-up.
     
    GormBrewhouse likes this.
  12. HopsintheSack

    HopsintheSack Initiate (0) Apr 17, 2012 California

    I think the argument is not against going bigger, just not that big. That's a cooler for storing a body.
     
    DunkelFester likes this.
  13. redgorillabreath

    redgorillabreath Zealot (511) Mar 29, 2015 Pennsylvania

    GO BIG OR GO HOME!!!

    Seriously, I know I need to recover 12 gallons of wort, or so. Thinking it though, the 30 gal cooler may not add up after I run the numbers (too big). I was basing things on my typical 1.5 qt/lb mash, etc. Hopefully after the day settles down, I can put pencil to paper and sort this out with the appropriate rigor.

    The bigger question in my mind was if there was anything "wrong" with a rectangular cooler. However, you folks may have helped me avoid a mistake on sizing. Cheers!
     
  14. HopsintheSack

    HopsintheSack Initiate (0) Apr 17, 2012 California

    Yeah the only real draw backs I can think of would be heat loss due to dead space and volume of wort left behind depending on type of false bottom.
     
  15. redgorillabreath

    redgorillabreath Zealot (511) Mar 29, 2015 Pennsylvania

    I finally sorted out calculations. I'll check my numbers against brew cipher as a reality check and report back.

    Assumptions:
    >Grain absorbs 1 pint of water per pound
    >Volume of one pound grain after mashing = 0.328 gallons.
    >Grain in a drained mash tun bottoms out at 1 qt/lb

    The last one is the most iffy. Regarding the second assumption, the number comes from How to Brew, whereas my last batch came up at 0.333 gal/lb.
     
  16. HopsintheSack

    HopsintheSack Initiate (0) Apr 17, 2012 California

    I think grain absorption is one of those factors that depends on your equipment. I found that my larger rectangle cooler retained more water then my round beverage cooler. I assume due to the taller the tun that the deeper grain bed is affected by gravity/space time and draws more fluid out?
     
  17. redgorillabreath

    redgorillabreath Zealot (511) Mar 29, 2015 Pennsylvania

    Another possibility is that there will always be residual wort x inches deep, where x depends on how perfectly the manifolds can sweep off the bottom of the tun. So if there's a bigger bottom area per unit volume, there'd be a higher percentage of wrt that doesn't get recovered.

    The other thing that has me thinking that a rectangular cooler is ok is that I've never had a stuck sparge. In my last two batches I crushed at 0.025". The grain bed was so dry and compacted after the sparge it was like it was squeezed in a press. If I had a grain bed that was deeper per
    Unit volume I suppose it would be more likely to result in a stuck sparge.

    The fine crush was to try to optimize efficiency.
     
  18. DunkelFester

    DunkelFester Zealot (607) Aug 24, 2004 Pennsylvania

    No, there's nothing inherently wrong with the rectangular geometry.

    It sounds like you have already, but if not, review Palmer's appendices C & D for more info on that front.

    Re: sizing... all I can offer is my experience. My most common batch size (for planning purposes) is 11.5 gallons post-boil - because I know I'll lose some to the kettle, some in the chiller, some in the fermentor, etc and it's a guarantee that I'll net two full kegs when all is said & done.

    I hit 81% efficiency consistently in a converted half-barrel keg with false bottom (bought used w/o the false bottom for $65).

    For a recent batch of pilsner (OG 1.049), I used 18.4 lb of grain @ 1.3 qt/lb. Total mash volume for that batch was 7.5 gallons (or, roughly, ~ 1/2 the tun's capacity). Depending on the boil time, I'll collect 13.25 gal (for 60 min) to ~ 15 gallons (for 90 min) of runoff.

    I could scale the same recipe to 20 gallons, and still have room to spare in the tun, OR double the gravity (would be pushing the limits of the tun's capacity @ 1.3 qt/lb, but could cut that ratio down if necessary.

    Point is, unless you want to make more than 10 - 12 gallons of high gravity beer, there's no need to go much bigger than a 15 gallon working capacity for your tun (note that chest cooler stated capacity almost always includes the volume of any recessed area under the lid - useless space wrt brewing, so a '60 qt' cooler won't accommodate a 15 gallon mash volume, etc). Something like this is probably in the ballpark:

    https://www.grainger.com/product/IG.../rp/s/is/image/Grainger/15F160_AS02?$smthumb$
     
  19. redgorillabreath

    redgorillabreath Zealot (511) Mar 29, 2015 Pennsylvania

    I finally wrapped up the calculations, and have reasonable agreement with BrewCipher. For the check with BrewCipher, I basically used it to calculate how much wort would be produced by telling it that there were losses for boil-off or trub. I suspect that the folks commenting on this thread already know how to make the calculations, so I'm not going to post them. If someone is curious about how I went about things, just let me know.

    Based on the calculations, a 25 gallon / 100 quart was enough to make 10 gallons of the biggest beer I could envision, but since that's not an everyday sort of brew, I looked at 80 quart coolers. But for some reason, they're considerably more expensive than a Coleman 100 quart coolers @ $50, so 100 quart it is.

    The next complication I run into is having a kettle to heat enough water for mashing. Some recipes would require using both a 15 kettle and another (smaller) kettle to get the required amount of water for the mash.

    The other consideration was making a "twin" to the mash tun I have, which would be the cheapest way to go; only ~$20 for the cooler and much less on plumbing fittings. But I'm afraid I'll end up chasing my tail when I get around to trying to adjust/control mash pH on two tuns at the same time.

    This means that the tun would be about half-full for a 10 gallon batch of a ~1.06-ish beer (specifically Jabberwocky Maibock, that I want to make with S-23 yeast). However, my current, 13 gallon tun (not actually 15 like I said above...sorry) is about half-full when I make a 5 gallon batch of something like that now and things work out fine.

    From what I can tell, this won't be the perfect solution, but I'd need to spend a lot more to come up with something meaningfully better. And maybe I can do 15 gallons of something some day. That's a lot of bottling.

    Cheers!
     
  20. Jaguar10301

    Jaguar10301 Crusader (423) Mar 1, 2010 Maine

    Yeah

    I believe my mash tun is a 70qt Coleman Xtreme cooler. It worked great for big beers and 10 gallon batches. I don't know if I ever did a big 10 gallon batch in it, but I think I did.
     
Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.