First Yeast Starter: Looking a bit weird...

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by CO-Bloom, Mar 4, 2017.

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  1. CO-Bloom

    CO-Bloom Pundit (879) May 3, 2014 Colorado

    Hi everyone,

    I tried searching for the answer to my question to no avail. I just cant seem to find a description or picture of what my starter is looking like right now. My concern is the dark circle inside the light yeast ring. Every other starter I've seen (via searching google) has a uniformed bottom of light yeast. Here is what it looks like...

    [​IMG]

    So you know my process - I followed NB's advice of 1500ml to a cup of DME - everything went smooth - but my issue is a I had a pre-inflated Wyeast 1056 that already had 3+ months on it. I read that 1056 has inflation problems but I was still a bit unsure how it held up. I poked a hole with a pin (sanitized), pushed the air out, found the nutrient, smacked it and poured it into my 1.5L of cooled wort. Then put it into my fermentation chamber at 71 with some bottles conditioning. That temp seems high but that was also NB's advice in the Youtube video.

    Anyone seen this? I plan to brew a 3gal BIAB Two Hearted clone later in the day, but I am hesitant now. I have WL0001 if I need it, but I would have to make another starter and put my brew day off.

    Thanks in advance!
     
  2. GreenKrusty101

    GreenKrusty101 Initiate (0) Dec 4, 2008 Nevada

    I think I would just use the 001 without making a starter if you want to brew a 3 gal batch today. Unless you feel lucky...then use both.
     
    #2 GreenKrusty101, Mar 4, 2017
    Last edited: Mar 4, 2017
  3. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Grand Pooh-Bah (3,375) Dec 15, 2005 Pennsylvania
    Society Pooh-Bah

    @CO-Bloom, you need to place your photograph on a web hosting site (e.g., Photobucket) and then 'copy' that photograph into your post.

    Needless to say I have not seen your photograph but as long as you followed proper sanitation in all likelihood your yeast starter is just fine.

    Since you are brewing a 3 gallon batch it probably would have been just fine to pitch your yeast directly (no need for a starter).

    Cheers!
     
    GreenKrusty101 likes this.
  4. GreenKrusty101

    GreenKrusty101 Initiate (0) Dec 4, 2008 Nevada

    At risk of sounding like a dick, I find it strange that a new brewer would have a temp-controlled fermenter chamber, but not have made a starter before. :confused:

    How to Brew, btw, says 500ml water/1/2 cup DME...either will work, but if the OP hasn't read it yet it would be a very good read. Sorry
     
  5. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Grand Pooh-Bah (3,375) Dec 15, 2005 Pennsylvania
    Society Pooh-Bah

    Barry, I personally would not recommend that folks make a 1/2 liter yeast starter since that is too small for proper propagation. IMO the absolute smallest anyone should go is 1 liter but even that is too small in my opinion.

    I typically make yeast starters anywhere between 1.5 - 2 liters depending on the batch of beer I am making. One case where I go 'bigger' (2 liters) is very high gravity beers. I also intermittently shake the starter to encourage aeration (and consequently increased propagation). The ultimate in propagation comes from using a stir plate but since I choose to pitch at high krausen I prefer to not use a stir plate.

    @CO-Bloom, you should download the article entitled “The Secret to Healthy Yeast: Making a Starter” by Jamil Zainasheff.

    https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/magazine/free-downloads/

    Cheers!
     
    minderbender likes this.
  6. minderbender

    minderbender Initiate (0) Jan 18, 2009 New York

    This may be unusual, but it's a sensible prioritization. If I were advising a new homebrewer, I might very well suggest using dry yeast and fermentation temperature control as a starting point, only adding wet yeast once the other variables are well understood. Dry yeast is perfectly good for a lot of styles, in fact I'm not really sure a starter of 1056 is any better than US-05.
     
    GreenKrusty101 likes this.
  7. CO-Bloom

    CO-Bloom Pundit (879) May 3, 2014 Colorado

    I'm a DIY guy so I built one out from a mini-fridge I had (plywood, rigid foam, etc. for like $35). I finished a couple of weeks ago - with that upgrade I am also moving into BIAB. I had been using extract kits with dry yeast up until now so I only re-hydrated. I mean I guess its weird? But I had read the most important things I could do was focus on yeast and temp control to make better beer. So I did, and Im pumped! - could you see the pic GreenKrusty? I'm trying to set up a photo bucket account to upload the pic to this thread, since Jack said he couldn't see it.
     
    GreenKrusty101 likes this.
  8. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Grand Pooh-Bah (3,375) Dec 15, 2005 Pennsylvania
    Society Pooh-Bah

    I have not homebrewed with WY1056/WLP001 in over a decade. US-05 hits all of the 'sweet spots' of:
    • More economical (i.e., much cheaper than the liquid yeast strains).
    • More yeast cells than the liquid yeast strains
    • Produces high quality beers for a large segment of beer styles
    • etc.
    Cheers!
     
    StupidlyBrave and minderbender like this.
  9. minderbender

    minderbender Initiate (0) Jan 18, 2009 New York

    Hey CO-Bloom, as I said in my previous post, this seems like a very sensible way to proceed.

    Edited to add: I don't think any of us can see your picture.
     
  10. CO-Bloom

    CO-Bloom Pundit (879) May 3, 2014 Colorado

    Thanks you, I appreciate the feedback! Okay I set up a photobucket account (thanks Jack) and I think I figured this out.

    [​IMG]

    Did that work?
     
  11. minderbender

    minderbender Initiate (0) Jan 18, 2009 New York

    I can see the picture. To my eyes it is nothing to worry about, maybe some dark material from the DME. It does not resemble any infection I've ever seen.
     
  12. CO-Bloom

    CO-Bloom Pundit (879) May 3, 2014 Colorado

  13. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Grand Pooh-Bah (3,375) Dec 15, 2005 Pennsylvania
    Society Pooh-Bah

    My guess is the dark material is trub from the DME.

    I personally would use that yeast starter for brewing my beer.

    Except that I would have used US-05 instead of WY1056. :wink:

    Cheers!
     
    CO-Bloom likes this.
  14. Supergenious

    Supergenious Maven (1,273) May 9, 2011 Michigan

    It could be scorched or burnt DME. Did you heat flask directly on stove? Was it an electric stove?
     
  15. CO-Bloom

    CO-Bloom Pundit (879) May 3, 2014 Colorado

    No, I boiled in a SS pot but it was on an electric (glass top) stove. If I swirl it and the yeast goes into suspension this stuff sticks around and it looks like chunky protein to me but IDK.
     
  16. CO-Bloom

    CO-Bloom Pundit (879) May 3, 2014 Colorado

    So for those who would use this starter, should I dump the whole thing in? Can this amount of trub negatively affect the flavor or 3gal of beer (1.064 IPA)?
     
  17. GreenKrusty101

    GreenKrusty101 Initiate (0) Dec 4, 2008 Nevada

    Jack, that is just a ratio from Palmer...could have just as easily said, 2000ml/ 2cups
     
  18. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Grand Pooh-Bah (3,375) Dec 15, 2005 Pennsylvania
    Society Pooh-Bah

    My 'thought' is that this yeast trub will settle to the bottom just like the beer trub will settle to the bottom of the fermenter. I do not experience negative flavor impacts from trub in my beers. I do not see why you would either.

    As a side topic, if the trub in your flask does not go into go into suspension when you swirl then won't it just remain in the flask when you pour into the wort during the pitch?

    Cheers!
     
  19. CO-Bloom

    CO-Bloom Pundit (879) May 3, 2014 Colorado

    Yep, good point. I could definitely leave most, if not all behind in the flask if careful.

    Thanks!
     
  20. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Grand Pooh-Bah (3,375) Dec 15, 2005 Pennsylvania
    Society Pooh-Bah

    From the online book How to Brew (Chapter 6):

    “3. On Wednesday (or Tuesday for slants) you will make up a starter wort. Boil a pint (1/2 quart) of water and stir in 1/2 cup of DME. This will produce a starter of about 1.040 OG. Boil this for 10 minutes, adding a little bit of hops if you want to. Put the lid on the pan for the last couple minutes, turn off the stove and let it sit while you prepare for the next step. Adding a quarter teaspoon of yeast nutrient (vitamins, biotin, and dead yeast cells) to the starter wort is always advisable to ensure good growth. It is available from your brewshop.”

    The above specifically mentions a pint starter with zero mention of producing a larger starter using the ratios provided above.

    Needless to say but I disagree with the above verbiage as it is specifically constructed.

    I do agree that one could produce a larger starter using the proper ratios.

    My guess is that the above verbiage is an artifact of the ‘old days’ when Wyeast produced smaller liquid yeast packages (i.e., before the present day “Activator Package”). Perhaps the print book has differing verbiage?

    Cheers!
     
    GreenKrusty101 likes this.
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