DME vs LME in beer design

All three options you listed 'work'.

DME has a longer shelf life so it is a safer bet from a freshness perspective. If you are assured that the LME you are purchasing is fresh then there really is not a differentiation here.

If you are looking to brew the lightest colored beer possible then Pilsen DME is the best choice.

Cheers!

 

When I was doing extract recipes, I used all Pilsen DME. Easier to measure, keeps fresh longer, lighter color, and a tablespoon in a milkshake beats anything they'll serve you at the DQ! It can be a PITA if your not meticulous about how you handle it. In the presence of steam, for example, it'll stick to everything in sight. It also tends to foam more when you add it to already boiling wort. Once you get the hang of it, it's not a problem.

To brew light colored beer with DME, I would routinely add 1/4 of the total at the start of the boil, just to keep the hops happy, then add the remaining 3/4 with 10 minutes left - just long enough to dissolve it completely (lots of stirring to get rid of the clumps that inevitably form).

Regarding both DME and LME in a kit, that's to get to the desired OG for the beer. Using all LME, you're limited to multiples of whole cans. With DME, you can be more exact with the measurements. There's always resealable bottles, but, unless it's changed over the years, most kits come with cans of LME plus however much DME you need to reach the proper OG.

 

In addition to what @JackHorzempa said, I suspect that certain country-sourced extracts are available only in DME or LME. I have not done any research to determine if this is fact, but it only makes sense when a recipe calls for some DME and LME (even though different grain types), one of those extracts must be available only in one form and to keep the recipe 'authentic' as the reason it is specified. For example, if a recipe calls for a can of German Pilsner LME, I usually get any Pilsner DME that my store carries because I don't like using LME, and having the malt sourced from Germany is not that critical for me.

 

My LHBS has good turn over so I typically go just LME. Seems easier to me personally. But that being said, DME is always handy when you want to boost things in amounts that LME isn't sold in. Also price. I guess I never priced it out really, but it has always seemed that DME is less expensive per pound.

Otherwise, if you can learn to handle DME well, then there is no difference in my opinion.

 

Just my 2 cents: Instead of throwing that money down on some extract, hops and yeast: put in in an empty pickle jar. Next time after that, that you want to buy some extract, yeast and hops: put that in the pickle jar too. You now have enough for a cooler, and probably a false bottom or screen. Recipe design is a great thing to learn. But eventually you will move to all grain and wonder why you wasted all that time on extract. Extract is a good stepping stone. But if you want to learn recipe design, your wasting your time in extract. Just my humble opinion.

 

When brewing extract (not often), I prefer dry, as it is easier to weigh out specific amounts and store the remainder. It stays fresher on the shelf than LME, too. I only use light or wheat DME. There are some specialty LMEs -- munich, maris otter -- that I have used, too. I avoid using anything that has crystal or roasted malts in it already -- amber and dark extracts. You don't always know exactly what is in them and that makes knowing what to add difficult.

To try to avoid dark extract beers that are supposed to be paler, you can try the extract late method (adding half the extract towards the end of the boil) to reduce the darkening effect of boiling, and possibly cut back on specialty malts. When I first did extract plus steeping, I went overboard on the steeping grains. It's easy to do because this is the area where you get to exercise creativity and put your stamp on a recipe, but use restraint.

 

As one that has transitioned from extract to AG, (BIAB), my vote would be for DME if you want to continue down that path. The LME is a gooey mess, and problematic storing excess though satisfying when plunking it into the water. The DME as mentioned above, can be measured a bit easier and then any remaining can be stored in an air tight container for future use.

I initially had basically the same dark amber color beer for every beer style. Upon researching, it seemed like the issue was I was only using 3 gallons or so of water when making the wort and filling to the desired level for a 5 gallon batch. Using the full amount of water during the boil process for the recipe made the resultant beer turn out the right color. I also played with staggering the DME into the boil which seemed to help as well.

This is also another plug for all grain. BIAB is a pretty easy transition from extract, seems like you are actually making beer, and the additional cost is minimal. The biggest difference for me is that I am now brewing outside rather than on a stovetop.....

 

where are you shopping?

 

I shop at Central Street Farmhouse in Bangor. I guess I see it as good turn over as I go in about two or three times a month and it appears the stock gets smaller and smaller then gets refilled. I guess I don't really know how much they keep out back. Also, they run a bunch of events (like the fathers day one coming up) and would put money on them using some LME for all the 101 classes.

 

Agree with the former posters, only that I would like to mention the absolutely infuriating clumping and dust formed by DME (I know, it can be avoided).