Know that I think I am know what I am doing when it comes to keggerator setup, and leak checking. I have read a lot of the posts on leak checking and leak finding. So know this isn't a simple "spray some star san on it"-type issues/fix. I know that I am supposed to get (up to) 6 kegs of beer on just ONE 5lb tank of CO2. However, I have been lucky to get 1.5 per tank. Many of my first errors were: not checking for leaks, then not checking ALL the areas for leaks, etc. However, recently I have done everything I have learned through forums to do and I still lose the CO2 at a slow rate. I have: checked the plastic cap on the regulator, the regulator connections, the gas hose clamps, the gas hoses, the ball lock connectors, the keg lid, the relief valve, towers. I have replaced: relief valves, ALL o-rings (towers, lid, tubes). I have even replaced some gas towers on the keg so that it's a new poppet. For a while I was convinced it was one of my kegs (using 4 reconditioned corny kegs). However, I have replaced o-rings, some towers, and checked for leaks. I have used star san, soapy water, hell I even went out and bought that goop you use to check for leaks on a gas line when replacing a dryer! I am getting frustrated because nothing seems to fix this issue. I also feel like everyone else I read about just needs to find one leak and then they are good to go. I have gone through 5.5 CO2 tanks from August until now trying to get this figured out with no discernible results. What am I missing, or doing wrong? How can I find a leak that seems impossible to find?
Update: started over again with the tests while waiting for advice. First, I tightened on the new tank. Opened 'er up, brought up to 10psi, then closed off the tank. Waited 18 mins and didn't see a drop in pressure on either gauge. Next I put the gas ball lock connectors under water, and noticed a leak in one connector at the screw-on area. Fixed it (tightened it really good). Then saw a video from Bev Factory that I "should NOT see a drop in pressure on the small gauge when I open the line." (this is when it is connected to the keg) I noticed a 2 psi drop in pressure when opened both lines. I unhooked from the keg and the same thing happened when I opened the line. Is a 2psi drop when opening the line (keg or not) a leak? Or is that just what happens? I sprayed star san all over the connections, especially around the hoses and hose clamps and I couldn't see any bubbles (at regulator, nor at ball lock connection). I'd say it's the keg (which it could also be), but I don't get why I see a drop in pressure when I don't even have it hooked up to a keg. Please advise if you know what's up.
Most likely the sign of a poor quality gauge. There should only the slightest of drop in pressure when pouring (or even no drop), but a cheap gauge may flicker a little bit more. You shouldn't even have a noticeable sound of gas filling the keg when pouring. You are doing everything correctly, but I offer these tips: Set the pressure at 50psi when doing your inspections, this really shows off a leak. Everything that is waterproof (QD, tank, fittings) can be dunked in a bucket of water. Trouble shoot from the tank toward the keg. I.E, with nothing connected to reg, set pressure (50'ish), then turn off master valve and let it remain overnight. If good, open one shut-off valve and repeat overnight. Next step is connect QD and see if pressure holds overnight with master valve off (set normal serving pressure for this step). Then repeat for the next shut-off valve. For each step, close the master valve and let it remain overnight. This may take a few days, but should isolate the leak. I would not go to bed at night with the tank master valve open until you are positive the leak has been fixed. You never want to be on a first-name basis with the CO2 salesman.
Thanks for the advice PortLago. I am currently following this method, and the regulator looks good. Now on to the hoses. A few questions: 1) [sorry] what do you mean by "QD"? Quick Disconnect? (i.e. ball-lock connector) 2a) Once I establish that it's not the regulator or either hose, and it's time to try the keg - do I release the head space pressure in the keg before opening the valve at 50psi? Or does that not matter? 2b) Also, I saw this advice before (boost pressure to check for leaks on kegs), how long is "too long" to let 50 psi run into my beer? I don't want to over-carb/foam out while I am trying to find a a leak in the keg. I know at 50 psi it should show itself pretty quick, but the posts I read about this method before didn't say anything about how to protect your beer in the process.
Yes, QD is quick disconnect. Start by placing them in a bucket of water under high pressure. If that doesn't show a leak then connect to your keg. I would reduce pressure to serving pressure (10 - 12 psi) whenever line is connected to keg. Any higher pressure will immediately start to over-carb the delicate beer. So you want headspace pressure and line pressure to be equal with master valve off . . . give it at least overnight. Another idea is to weigh your tank (with reg attached). This won't fix a leak, but you can easily monitor what's going on quantity-wise. Also, you can still pour some beer with line disconnected. The residual headspace pressure will easily push out the beer and loss of carb level will initially be only slight. You should "re-charge" the headspace when in-between troubleshooting steps (maybe a touch over normal) . . . this minimizes the pain of being without the precious nectar.
You've already gotten great advice so I have nothing yet to add from that perspective. What I will tell you is that you aren't alone in not just having one leak to fix. When I first got my kegerator I got the big leaks fixed pretty quickly but it took me quite a while to get the last slow leak fixed. Sometimes you get lucky and the fix is easy and other times its a serious pain in the rear.
New to forum and literally have my first kegerator cooling down as im typing this. My friend said to me while giving me tips is to not open the CO2 bottle fully. To just open the tank valve a little bit. Then open up the regulator. IF you get the desired PSI then dont open the tank anymore. He said he made the mistake of opening the co2 tank all the way and had to replace after the first keg. Now he opens tank a little and it lasts him the desired 4+ kegs.
Nonsense. This is certainly one of the more ridiculous "black arts" draft idea I have read. Sorry to be blunt. Open the tank fully. If you have a leak then fix the leak. 1. it is gas not liquid; there is no flow control (not really), only pressure control. 2. the gas regulator is used to... regulate pressure. it is a simple one way mechanism that will allow gas into the keg until the pressure in the keg matches the back pressure on the regulator diaphragm. Then no more gas is released. 3. pour a beer, and you decrease liquid in the keg while increasing gas space in the keg. 4. regulator fills the headspace back to set pressure. It sounds complex but it is really simple. No need to make it hard. Cheers.
The amount you open the valve has nothing to do with how long it lasts. Pressure is pressure, it doesn't matter how far open the valve is. If the regulator is set to 12psi, and you open the valve halfway, it is still 12 psi. Open it fully, still 12 psi. The only thing partially opening it does is affect the recovery after CO2 is drawn off - smaller opening, slower recovery, but at the volumes you are using it is of no consequence.
Some good info... Thanks for not tearing me a new one. Doug and Bills comments make sense to me. Glad I brought that up... now i know. Hope you figure the leak or issue out soon. Cheers.
So I did the 50psi checks for the regulator and both valves/hoses that PortLago suggested and noticed no drop in pressure. Last night I hooked up both kegs, dowsed the tops with star san, brought it back down to serving pressure (10-12) and checked both for bubbles/leaks one at a time - (still) nothing. So I let one keg fill (since it's been off CO2 for a few days now while I check). Before bed, I closed off the main valve, and left the one shut off open (thinking it's the same logic as the valve checks I did) and in the morning, there was no drop in pressure (still at 10 psi). *Well, minus a 100psi pressure drop on the main gauge, but I figured that was the result of the CO2 cooling - I had my tank out of the keggerator at room temp while I did the other pressure checks. So I went ahead and did the same for the other keg (closed off first one, turned gas on, opened second valve, then closed main). If I go home today after work and see no drop in pressure, is it safe to assume that I have fixed my leaks? Or is there still more to check / find? Thanks again for all the advice.
That pretty much covers it. Of course pressurize both kegs and switch off master valve overnight for the final exam. Caveat: If topping off the headspace of flat beer expect a pressure drop due to the beer absorbing CO2, this is normal. Once you reach equilibrium there should be no pressure drop. Here's the places you can expect a leak (assuming your tank doesn't have a bullet hole in it): If each of these fittings/connectors are holding pressure you should be in the clear. I would still weigh my CO2 tank. If you don't have a small precise scale I would use bathroom scales (weigh yourself, then with tank). Pretty sure you know not to rely on high pressure gauge . . . tracking the weight gives you a good feel for actual gas used. You want that guy at the tank-exchange store to not recognize you next time.
