My beer doesn’t taste good

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by CShell1234, Oct 25, 2018.

Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.
  1. CShell1234

    CShell1234 Initiate (0) Oct 25, 2018 New York

    Hey guys, I just brewed my second batch of beer. The first was an extract kit and this second one was a BIAB neipa of my own recipe. As I was racking to my secondary I took a hydrometer reading and tasted it after taking the reading. It tasted fairly thin and really had very little flavor and mostly just tasted beery. My efficiency was pretty low, which after doing some research I attribute mostly to lack of grain crush.
    My recipe was:
    5 gallons
    9 lbs 2-row
    2 lbs flaked oats
    1 lb 6-row
    1 lb crystal 10
    .5 lb crystal 20

    1 oz Bravo at 60
    1 oz Amarillo at 10
    1 oz Mandarina Bavaria at 10
    1 oz Amarillo at WP
    1 oz Mandarina Bavaria at WP
    1 oz El Dorado at WP
    1 oz Amarillo at DH
    1 oz Amarillo at DH
    (I tasted just before adding my dry hop)

    Omega DIPA yeast with a starter

    I was aiming for an OG of around 1.070 but ended up with only 1.056. It fermented well, down to 1.011.
    Any ideas on the lack of flavor? Will it be drinkable after the dry hop?
    Sorry for the long post, just wanted to give details, thanks!
     
    GormBrewhouse likes this.
  2. chavinparty

    chavinparty Zealot (653) Jan 4, 2015 New Hampshire

    I think for what you’re looking for you need more dryhops. But it should be drinkable
     
    GormBrewhouse likes this.
  3. GormBrewhouse

    GormBrewhouse Pooh-Bah (2,111) Jun 24, 2015 Vermont
    Pooh-Bah

    The dry hopping will change the beer a lot. I think it will be fine. Crush finer for future beers, make the same beer and see if it is different.

    What tastes/ flavors were you looking for??
     
  4. MostlyNorwegian

    MostlyNorwegian Pooh-Bah (2,236) Feb 5, 2013 Illinois
    Pooh-Bah

    Looks like you have some hop bite in there with the amount you're adding during the boil for a 5 gallon yield. If your mill is what it is. You're kind of screwed. Also, it's sort of hard to tell what your final thing will be until it's done. You can get an idea, but it will change and move the goalposts on you until it's packaged up and poured into a glass.
     
    chavinparty and GormBrewhouse like this.
  5. telejunkie

    telejunkie Savant (1,107) Sep 14, 2007 Vermont

    To tack onto @MostlyNorwegian, for my NE IPA, i add maybe 2-4 pellets per 5 gallon in the boil and save the reset for whirlpool & dry hop...those additions are usually about 4 oz of total hops per 5 gal (4 oz+ in whirlpool & 4 oz+ in dry hops).

    Also gotta ask, why were you racking into secondary? Hop forward beers should be handled as little as possible...this isn't red wine or imperial stouts (which may benefit from a little O2), oxygen during transfers is your enemy and even closed transfers will still have some oxygen ingress, so always keep that in mind.

    Finally what temp did you ferment at? I've been noticing I like a little warmer ferm temps than I previously thought with these beers — brings out more fruit flavors from the yeast.
     
    chavinparty likes this.
  6. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Grand Pooh-Bah (3,375) Dec 15, 2005 Pennsylvania
    Society Pooh-Bah

    Another consideration is that the hydrometer sample you tasted is noncarbonated beer. Carbonation plays a significant role in beer flavor delivery. Continue with the brewing process (dry hopping and carbonation/bottle conditioning) and the final beer should much tastier.

    Cheers!
     
  7. EvenMoreJesus

    EvenMoreJesus Initiate (0) Jun 8, 2017 Pennsylvania

    You used 8 oz. of hops in an IPA. That's your issue. You need to double that, at least. I'd do that by tripling both your whirlpool and dh additions and keeping your kettle addition to a first boil one. Working on your efficiency will also help.

    As far as this beer being drinkable, it will probably be just fine. You just need to get your recipe and techniques right to make better beer.
     
    NeroFiddled likes this.
  8. premierpro

    premierpro Savant (1,060) Mar 21, 2009 Michigan

    I find that my Ales hit their sweet spot at about eight weeks after fermentation. When I first started brewing, hydrometer samples never tasted good and made me wonder also if my beer would be good. Like Jack said carbonation makes a big difference. Do not wast time with secondary's with most styles. I think your beer will be better then you think. Take care!
     
  9. CShell1234

    CShell1234 Initiate (0) Oct 25, 2018 New York

    @GormBrewhouse - I’m looking for an orange/citrus/stone fruit flavor, with not a ton of tropical flavors

    @MostlyNorwegian - yeah, with my lower OG it did raise my ibus a little higher than I was aiming for, but not the end of the world

    @telejunkie - I guess I transferred to a secondary to get it off the yeast so I’d get as little trub into the keg when it came time for that. As for Ferm temp, that’s another thing I need to tighten up, because it was consistently between 64-70, but it was fluctuating anywhere in that range throughout fermentation. Basically, when I heat my house it also heats the basement, then when I’m out of the house I don’t have the heat on so the temp would drop until I put the heat back on. I was wondering how that might affect things, but from a pure numbers standpoint it at least fermented out just fine.

    @EvenMoreJesus - so you’re saying just add hops at 60 minutes to get my desired ibus and then forgo any additions in the last 20 minutes because I’ll get all the flavor and aroma I need from whirlpool and dry hop additions?

    I could always do a second even stronger dry hop, right?
     
    #9 CShell1234, Oct 25, 2018
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 25, 2018
    NeroFiddled and chavinparty like this.
  10. GormBrewhouse

    GormBrewhouse Pooh-Bah (2,111) Jun 24, 2015 Vermont
    Pooh-Bah

    For your flavors id be dry hopping and whirlpooling citra centenial and mosaic. I think on the mosaic cause I have not used it much.

    Don't worry about the secondary, I do it all the time and make great beer. Just minimize the splashing
     
    NorCalKid likes this.
  11. CShell1234

    CShell1234 Initiate (0) Oct 25, 2018 New York

    Yeah, I was trying to avoid using Citra and mosaic because everybody these days is using it... but I guess there’s a reason for that haha
     
    NorCalKid likes this.
  12. EvenMoreJesus

    EvenMoreJesus Initiate (0) Jun 8, 2017 Pennsylvania

    Sure, you can do it that way, but remember that IBUs/isomerized alpha acids are only one measure of bitterness. When you add a large whirlpool charge and dry hop, you'll get some IBUs from that, as well as other hop related compounds that also impart bitterness. For example, I stopped using bittering charges altogether and am very happy with my bitterness levels in my hoppy beers and they are plenty bitter.

    Ayep.
     
    riptorn likes this.
  13. Prep8611

    Prep8611 Savant (1,208) Aug 22, 2014 New Jersey

    Why the 6row? Why the 2 types of crystal? Need to up the hops!
     
    GormBrewhouse and NorCalKid like this.
  14. bryantc3

    bryantc3 Initiate (0) Apr 12, 2017 New Jersey
    Trader

    yea - my 5 gallon dry hop is generally 8-9oz. Mandarina is super subtle so you have to go a bit heavier on that than say Galaxy or Citra.

    also that's a lot of crystal malt, especially at 2 types.

    Simplify your grain bill. Maybe 10lbs 2row, 1-1.5lbs flaked oats, 6-8oz of C10 or C20 (not both) should be a decent starting point to build on
     
    NorCalKid likes this.
  15. EvenMoreJesus

    EvenMoreJesus Initiate (0) Jun 8, 2017 Pennsylvania

    Grainbill's definitely overly complicated, but I don't think that's the OP's issue.
     
  16. EvenMoreJesus

    EvenMoreJesus Initiate (0) Jun 8, 2017 Pennsylvania

    I was going to say "fuck crystal malt in IPAs", but I let you guys say it first. Thanks.
     
  17. CShell1234

    CShell1234 Initiate (0) Oct 25, 2018 New York

    Haha I was trying to get a certain color, but yeah it is even slightly darker than I wanted... less crystal, more hops, got it!
    And to the point of Mandarina being subtle, I definitely need to get to the right amount because I’ve only had a couple Mandarina forward beers but I’ve loved every one I’ve had.
    Are there different grains to add to get to a slightly darker orange color?
     
  18. MostlyNorwegian

    MostlyNorwegian Pooh-Bah (2,236) Feb 5, 2013 Illinois
    Pooh-Bah

    Unless you really want to get your beer off the yeast and are not planning on doing anything with it for a couple months. Don't waste your time racking to a secondary.
    I actually do agree with Evenmorejesus, but, I do my boil hop addition mostly at 40 minutes. If I do a 60 minute. It's something really cheap and with enough alpha acids to give me the kind of bitterness I'm looking for.
    I'm going to venture a guess that the amarillo el dorado combo is going to completely overpower your mandarina hops.
     
  19. VikeMan

    VikeMan Grand Pooh-Bah (3,067) Jul 12, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah

    Tell that to Bell's.
     
  20. Brewday

    Brewday Zealot (721) Dec 25, 2015 New York

    What did you use for water. Even with spring or tap water there will be times you want to add either gypsum or calcium chloride. Some of my brews were weak until i learned how to use these minerals.
     
Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.